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My 1982 GS 450 - journal thread

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    #16
    project journal - valve day

    Tonight I cracked open the valve cover. Unfortunately i have a bolt that is rusted into the head and broken off, fortunately it's sticking a few mm out of the head, enough to grab hold of it with vice grips. I'm leaving it alone for now. it's very stuck. Tomorrow I'll get a torch from the auto parts store. right now the stub is soaking in pb blaster. Don't have a welder unfortunately. so i can't weld a nut on it. I do work with someone who maybe could do that for me if it comes down to that.

    The rest of the bolts were torqued properly. One other bolt was rusty but i was able to get it out and clean out the hole.

    it looks nice and clean on the inside. the oil is light amber, like the oil was changed and never ran after that.

    here are my measurements of valve clearance. My smallest feeler gauge is .02mm and i have them in .01mm increments. does this look right?

    "driver" side:
    intake:
    clearance: less than .02mm
    shim: 2.50mm
    shim needed: 2.45mm

    exhaust:
    clearance less than .02mm
    shim: 2.65
    shim needed: 2.6mm

    "passenger" side:
    intake LT .05mm, exhaust LT .05mm
    no adjustment required

    I may be the first person to crack into the valves on this bike. Is it normal for valves to have different shims from the factory?

    also it's my understanding that valve clearances usually tend to tighten over time, is that right? I don't really understand that. is it from the camshafts wearing into the bearings?

    ---

    everything else is on order that i've discovered so far. needle & seat, intake boot o-rings, and sh775 box should be here in the next couple days, hopefully tomorrow. also in the mail still: tires, brake shoes, throttle cable, valve cover gasket (oem at that!), some new bolts for the valve cover.

    just need to obtain a couple of shims and a new turn signal relay. probably also need some o-rings for the float bowl drain plugs. i'll find out if it leaks i guess.

    i also checked out the chain. the adjuster was all the way in when i took the wheel off, so it's clearly a new chain. I measured and it appears to be a 530 chain. it's dirty but it's oiled with no binding links or anything.

    phew! well it's coming along at least. as long as the stator and ignition system are ok still, I hope this will have me up and running. I need to run tests on those. i want to put a dyna on at some point.

    i'm a little concerned about the wiring in general. the small gauge red wire with the fuse on it was getting pretty warm when i had the battery plugged in and the headlight on. there's a bullet connector on that wire that i tried cleaning up some. maybe once i wire in the 775 box and put a led headlight in, it will be a little happier.

    the last todo list item for the moment: the 'driver' spark plug looks pretty rich and the 'passenger' plug looks really lean. i'm hoping that cleaning the carbs and replacing the intake orings fixes that but i also need to get the stuff to check the sync.

    that's it for tonight, thanks for reading

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      #17
      Valve clearance gets tighter as the valve wears itself deeper into the valve seat
      1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
      1982 GS450txz (former bike)
      LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

      These aren't my words, I just arrange them

      Comment


        #18
        before i lose it again. carb o-ring sizes on a bs34ss

        "For your emulsion tube, you need a 1.1mm x 3.1mm (cross section by ID). I've tried O-rings that were extremely close, and they would not get the job done. I've seen this O-ring available at parts outlets like Beach Blvd. The Suzuki part number is 09280-03003, and its current price is $1.40 at Beach. This particular O-ring has to be spot on to provide the proper interference fit to hold the emulsion tube in place.

        The adjustment screw takes a 1.25mm x 3.8mm. This one shouldn't be too tough to find.​"

        drain plug o-ring is Item #: 13249-41310​ size unknown

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