1981 GS450E Rebuild
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Guest repliedGood stuff Greg! I gotta say the people at Motorcycle parts were great to deal with when I bought my stator, very easy and I also got it the next day.
The Honda/Shindengen ones are typically in the US not locally, so while the price is right you need to be careful as some sellers charge phenomenal amounts for shipping and you'll also need to wait much longer... however that's still the path I'll probably take if I have to replace my R/R again.
Looking forward to the 15th!
Edit: Forgot to ask if you're meeting us at Camp Hill? -
Thanks everyone for your advise.
I have gone the quick, easy and expensive route and purchased the aftermarket one from motor cycle parts that you mentioned Pete.
It will be posted today and should be here Monday and fitted.
I looked on ebay but not much around.
Looks like I will be on the road for Sundays ride.
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Guest repliedPete,
Good to see you back on page 1. Keep us posted on the DUC progress.
NielsLeave a comment:
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Guest repliedI got a cheapo Shindengen/Honda copy from Hong Kong or Taiwan or something on mine as I was low on funds at that point of the rebuild. It was something like $US17 including shipping.
If I replace it again I'll be looking for a proper one on eBay.
Fortunately the PO had had a motorcycle shop (Gosford Motorcycles I think going by the sticker) put a new (back then) R/R on that had the 6th sense wire and had already bypassed the headlight loop for the stator and wired it straight into the R/R, so my work was easy.
Greg, all depends how quick you need it done. The important thing is to get it done before the 15th right?
www.motorcycle-parts.com.au is where I got my stator from and they have Electrex World gear which lists a R/R for our Suzuki's for $115.50 (RR10).
That would be the quick (expensive) option, otherwise look for a Honda/Shindengen one on eBay...Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedif you can afford it, its worth getting a larger one.
Talkin 35 amp, and mosfet based, such as a sh579b-11 otherwise known as DA REG35/3 (shingenden or after market) came out on CBR 900,VF1000, VT1000 Hondas.
Its a 3 phase, with no sense wire, but has 2 x +12v and gnd outputs. just tie the extra wires away. (unless you want 35amps for accessories) you will have fit a plug and socket and a mounting bracket to make it work.
You can buy aftermarket ones in the bike shops, once you get past , the kid, the crotchety old guy, the lack of knowledge, the holier than thou attitude, and what other BS they present that day.
I paid >$150 at pro honda 2 years ago...been going strong since, with the modest power requirements of the GS(max about 15amps) it dosnt even get warm...no hots = no fail,,,see
Cheers JohnLeave a comment:
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Guest repliedHey Ged, do a quick search, i think its shingenden that make them and they are from Hondas. But i cant remember which model.Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedthe bloke that bought my 250 got conned by a workshop to only fit a genuine suzuki RR, cost him $500 to get it done!Leave a comment:
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Hey Pete, my regulator/rectifier is shot, I am pumping 17.5 volts into the battery at about 4000rpms. I cannot remember if you replaced yours during your build, and if so where did you get it from? I think I remember you did replace your stator. Z1 is selling replacement RR for my bike at $99.50 what do you think. There are some on ebay used but you cannot be sure they will be ok as well.
RegardsLeave a comment:
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Guest repliedI wholeheartedly agree.Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedYup I did indeed! The pipe's warm to the touch without burning very soon after shutting her off and it's definitely cooler than chrome while running.
Thanks mate! I'm enjoying her very much now she's done
The tail piece I made myself and the details are somewhere in this thread, probably this time last year maybe?
I used the framework from the stock duck tail, bent some metal rod and welded it to the frame to make the outline, put some wire mesh over that to mould the shape, then a couple of layers of fibreglass over that.
I then used several layers of body filler to get it smooth.
As a result, I was able to keep the stock seat pan and seat lock but with what I think is a much better looking tail piece.Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedPete thats a beautiful bike! I love what you've done with her. One question: is that seat stock? Not the actual seat portion but the rear cowl? Or did you fab that up yourself?
I love how that looks.Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedoh- you got ceramic coating...no wonder! Good job!Leave a comment:
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Guest repliedHahahaha
Seriously, I don't notice the pipe at all while riding. It sits at the bottom of my calf just above my ankle and between the Draggin Jeans or cargoes and my boots I don't even notice it, not even on the GSR runs where we've been out for several hundred km's.
If I pull up at the lights and put my leg down I sometimes brush it with my thigh and yeah it feels warm but moving my leg out 1/2 an inch sorts that out.
That ceramic coating is awesome...Leave a comment:
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