1983 Suzuki GS1100ED --- "Big Boy"

[Adler]

That IS a great deal!

[TeamDar]

You will not find a better power adder for $40 than high output coils. The bike will start much easier and be more responsive.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

That IS a great deal!

You will not find a better power adder for $40 than high output coils. The bike will start much easier and be more responsive.

Hmmm... Now I'm considering keeping them. I mean my current spark plug caps and wires are cracked and loose and was shocked a few times while the bike was running...

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Guys... I have some bad news. My dad will be using the red Toyota truck and my mom is driving the Camry. So that leaves me with the little Nissan truck. Problem is, it is knocking pretty bad and loses power after you drive it for a while. It won't last long. The MR2 is sold to help pay for future schooling as well.

How will I get to work? I need a car, like right now! The 1100E is for sale. $1000 as is right now or $1,400 once I fix the electrical problems.

Unless I can find someone that will let me borrow their car or if I stumble upon some cash (I doubt it) then I can keep the bike.

[Truth]

I ride to work every day.

Even when it rains.

Keep the bike.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I ride to work every day.

Even when it rains.

Keep the bike.

I can't. The thing is none of the lights work so it is illegal. It will also take some time for me to fix it but I need a car before next week.

[Curly]

You can't temporarily run wires straight to a switched 12v source? I don't understand why the lights don't work, it's either a bad bulb, bad wire, or bad fuse. Multimeter will tell you in seconds which one it is.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

You can't temporarily run wires straight to a switched 12v source? I don't understand why the lights don't work, it's either a bad bulb, bad wire, or bad fuse. Multimeter will tell you in seconds which one it is.

Bulbs are good. Fuses are good. So it must be a bad wire? I think my wiring harness came off of an earlier model though...

1982 GS1100E right hand controls installed. It didn't work at first so I opened it up and cleaned the contacts. Now it works great!


Brand new throttle cable installed. The grip now returns perfectly.


Intake port of cylinder 1 looks good.



Now the clutch lever is VERY stiff. I think I over tightened the clutch springs a bit so I'll check that tomorrow.

[Curly]

Check for ground and + at the headlight plug. Should be three prongs. One is ground, one is the headlight, one is the brights. Ground should be black, or black with a stripe. Put your multimeter on it's continuity setting, and jamb it in that hole, and the other probe on the negative battery terminal. Should beep. Switch to 12v, and leave the probe on the negative battery cable. Check the other two plugs. One should have 12v, one shouldn't. Switch on the brights, and they should either switch, or now the 2nd one will have 12v.

Report back your findings, this should be an easy fix, seriously.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Check for ground and + at the headlight plug. Should be three prongs. One is ground, one is the headlight, one is the brights. Ground should be black, or black with a stripe. Put your multimeter on it's continuity setting, and jamb it in that hole, and the other probe on the negative battery terminal. Should beep. Switch to 12v, and leave the probe on the negative battery cable. Check the other two plugs. One should have 12v, one shouldn't. Switch on the brights, and they should either switch, or now the 2nd one will have 12v.

Report back your findings, this should be an easy fix, seriously.

Curly, my headlight works perfectly fine. The tail/brake/license light, turn signals, and gauge cluster are the parts that do not work.

Unless I'm missing something in your explanation?

[Curly]

Ah, I thought it was your headlight. Tests work for those too though, although they obviously don't have a high beam setting. How's the plug at the tail light look? Should be a 4 prong square plug IIRC.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Ah, I thought it was your headlight. Tests work for those too though, although they obviously don't have a high beam setting. How's the plug at the tail light look? Should be a 4 prong square plug IIRC.

I cannot remember..... I'll be back in a few minutes with pictures. Wait for me!

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Hey hey! It takes 10 minutes to remove the seat, tail piece, and take 2 pics.

The block connector on top and gray wire on top all power the tail/brake/license plate light. All of the others are for the rear turn signals. Then there is one spare ground wire for something....

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I'm going to take a guess on what to do. Poke the hot wires with the positive probe then stick the negative probe onto the negative terminal on the battery. Turn the ignition to ON and see if I get voltage. Should be 12V for them. BRB!

[Flaming Chainsaws]

I'm going to take a guess on what to do. Poke the hot wires with the positive probe then stick the negative probe onto the negative terminal on the battery. Turn the ignition to ON and see if I get voltage. Should be 12V for them. BRB!

I did the above tests with the ignition switched to ON. I plugged my positive probe right at the block and bullet connector without unplugging anything.

Gray wire (license plate light) = 0.08v

White wire (I think it's the brake light) = 0.04v

Brown wire (I think this is the tail light) = 0.08v

Black wire (rear left turn signal switched on) = 0.09v

Light green wire (rear right turn signal switched on) = 0.09v

So these obviously aren't 12v. What is causing this? The bulbs are good. The fuses are good. So that leaves broken wires... For some reason, I doubt that ALL of these wires are broken but I will unwrap the tape on the harness tomorrow and see what I find.