De-stinking Penelope

[chuck hahn]

Dale..SOOO glad to see that your being selfish enough to actually do something for your projects for a change...not that all the things you do to help others and the family is wrong. You truly deserve the time to work on the bike. Just out of curiosity..will she be ready in the spring (MI spring) which is around May????

[Matchless]

Now you are talking! I was wondering when you would start on it again.
Knowing you and recalling some earlier pictures and now seeing your collection of gauges - The logistical wizard is present there again!

Stretch the restore out as long as you can and get the most enjoyment you can out of it!

[SVSooke]

I will join the chorus,happy to see you making progress on this bike!

[Guest]

+1 Dale, nice to see this happening again, your work is always top notch so it's a pleasure to watch

And thanks for the nudge Ed!

[rustybronco]

Neat. So how does one go about taking these gauges apart, curious because I have a screw bouncing around in my tachometer?

There are two ways that I know of to get at the internals. the first is by cutting the housing apart > http://www.thegsresources.com/garage...ide_gauges.htm the second way is to pry open the crimp on the bezel.

[rustybronco]

Pete, I need to thank you for paving the way. your effort trying to remove your tripminder knob make removing the one on mine a piece of cake!

[rustybronco]

Just out of curiosity..will she be ready in the spring (MI spring) which is around May????

I don't know If it will or won't be done. I'd like to see it finished by then.

I un-staked the support bracket inside the tach this morning so I could 'extract' the pivot shaft in order to remove the dent and straighten the 'bell' which was damaged in an accident. the magnet's housing was also broken during the accident and I robbed a spare off of one of the tach's Steve had given me. spent a few minutes during lunch straightening the gauge bracket so it could be sand blasted after work.

little by little, bit by bit...

***edit*** for those who are planning on lubricating the needle's pivot's, I thought some might like to see what it looks like completely disassembled as it may give you an idea where to lubricate.

after the tach is removed from it's case and the 'pointer' is removed, you lubricate the small hole in the far left bracket from the bottom side and the brass tube, third from the right.
(there's no need to disassemble it like I have done, if you plan on lubricating it!)

[chuck hahn]

Get it done before they schedule any back surgeries...that will set you back many months!!!

[Guest]

Pete, I need to thank you for paving the way. your effort trying to remove your tripminder knob make removing the one on mine a piece of cake!

Haha no problems Dale, glad to be of service

[chuck hahn]

Also be mindfull that the connecting cogs between the dials are just plastic and the dials are designed to turn only one way...dont turn them against the cogs the wrong way and risk snapping them off.

[rustybronco]

I stripped the gauge bracket down to bare metal after work yesterday. the gauge pod cleaned up well with just plain soap and water. both the speedo and tachometer are back together, so I'm hoping it's above 40? tomorrow and I can paint the gauge bracket and start putting it all back together.

I robbed the best from all that I have, it should look real nice when it's done.

[Guest]

Dale,
Are you going to paint white the top of the lettering above those idiot lights?
I've been trying to figure out a way to paint mine without messing them up.

[rustybronco]

Yes I plan on painting them. so far the plan is to use white acrylic enamel with a hardener in it. how I'll apply it is up in the air for the moment. I'll probably roll the paint on a rigid foam pad and lightly press it against the letters

[Guest]

Yes I plan on painting them. so far the plan is to use white acrylic enamel with a hardener in it. how I'll apply it is up in the air for the moment. I'll probably roll the paint on a rigid foam pad and lightly press it against the letters

I was thinking of using an eraser, or even a flat piece of plastic, put a light coat of paint on it and lightly press it against the lettering, haven't figurued out what type of paint to use though. White being white often doesn't cover well over black, so it can't be too thick, but needs to cover
evenly.

[chuck hahn]

Tip of a flat wooden toothpick with white enamel model paint...place under a good stand supported magnify glass and dab the letters.