81 GS550T Full Rebuild...In Ohio

[eil]

I don't know the whole picture or your financial situation, so consider this a completely random suggestion. Something I didn't know until recently is that you can take out a vehicle loan against a car that's already paid off. The bank will probably want to know what the money's for, but it doesn't have to be for the car itself. We used ours for emergency house repairs. Interest rate is usually a lot better vs a personal loan, especially if it's from a credit union.

[cowboyup3371]

+1 with Duaneage

For 4 grand or even 2, isn't there another vehicle you could get for that price or a used Tranny for $5-600

I'd like to but I still owe $7K on the truck and I use it for my horse so no, there's not another one.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks guys. The truck is already fixed - I'm just paying for it now.


My point to the start of it was just a rant about TeleCheck and how they arbitrarily say you are trustworthy or not based on the check number not your credit or ability to pay.

Here's the claim from their website:

http://www.firstdata.com/telecheck/telecheck-works.htm

And their declined check statements:

When TeleCheck receives these pieces of identifying data, it first looks for “matches” of the identifying data within its database of transactions, reviewing for evidence of unpaid check or account debt on checking accounts known to be held or used by that check writer. Then, TeleCheck analyzes the transaction against one of its many risk models. The model looks for “fraudulent” characteristics and good characteristics and provides risk decisioning accordingly If the transaction is above the applicable threshold of acceptable risk, TeleCheck will flag it and issue a single-digit code – a “3” -- back to the merchant. This Code does not tell the merchant the check is not good or that the customer does not have enough money in their account to cover the check. This “Code 3” is telling the merchant that the transaction contains a significant level of risk markers.

How effective are these models in reducing fraud?
They are very effective-- but they are only predictive, based on information obtained at the point-of-sale and historical data. They cannot predict with 100% accuracy which check transactions will complete or return. However, through this predictive risk decisioning, TeleCheck aids retailers in saving billions of dollars that might otherwise be lost to fraudulent activity -- the kind of financial loss that is rarely recouped

Here's the statement that I think applies to me:

You hardly ever write checks. Why did you receive a Code 3?
When your transaction was analyzed, it probably had several characteristics that made it look risky. In fact, if the account number was rarely, or never seen by TeleCheck before, this in itself could be a factor in a decision to decline.

Their automated explanation of the code 3 error when I called simply said they don't have enough information about my check so they can't approve it. Speaking with the bank, this means it is because the check number is too low. They don't care for the company and say they have no true legitimacy. I also believe it's because I just moved to Ohio and received an Ohio drivers license last month. When the company submits the check through TeleCheck, they have to include your DL number with it. So yea, there's little information on me here in this state.



Either way, it's time to do something so I can get another vehicle on the road. I just don't know how I want to do it.

Likewise, I'm watching it this side of the pond as well

[Mekanix]

+1 with Duaneage

For 4 grand or even 2, isn't there another vehicle you could get for that price or a used Tranny for $5-600

[duaneage]

Is the truck worth putting 4K into the transmission? Might you be able to find another at a wrecking yard and swap it? A tranny from a wrecked car is usually OK, after all the vehicle is in the yard due to an accident, not a trans failure.

Most of the trans shops make mega bucks off repairs, and it always seems to need a total rebuild. "it's got to come out" is standard with them.

[cowboyup3371]

TeleCheck is Evil

Almost a month ago now I stopped all work on my bike thanks to my truck's transmission blowing up. I found a local "independent" shop thanks to recommendations from a GSR member and an OReilly's worker. After looking at it, they said the torque convertor burnt out and that to rebuild the transmission would cost me $4000. However, they assured me they could take a payment plan if I dropped a little over a third down and give them post dated checks. This would allow me to bring the truck home and pay for the bill without killing us on a rental car since I still haven't fixed the heater core in my Jeep.

Well, after working a deal with one bill person and saving what I could in the short time, I went to the shop on Friday with checks and pay statements in hand. I handed over the first check of $2000 and the manager ran it through their TeleCheck machine. However, he told me it was declined. Knowing it was impossible since that was also payday of both my paycheck and my retiree funds, I called the bank. They also assured the owner I had sufficient funds but told me TeleCheck is crap and not trusted by them. TeleCheck doesn't check your credit nor does it verify your funds but they insist they can tell a business if you are a risk. Although they would not tell me an exact reason why they declined me, it was most likely because my check numbers were too low (I'd changed banks two years ago) since I pay for almost everything using my debit card or through online bill pay. But their refusal meant I don't get my truck back even though I had the money (they won't take cash or cashiers check for their payment plan). After much "discussion" with the manager, it was finally decided today I could make payments but the truck stays in their possession until May when I pay the entire bill off which essentially will be the same time had they let me do the payments.

Since it still puts us with only one vehicle and that's not running well, I have to do something. Option 1 is to save up money to fix the Jeep (~$1500) but that won't work until this summer as I can't let the truck sit there that long without paying it. Option 2 is to get the bike running again but rattle canning it again for now. Option 2 will be easier to handle financially but doesn't help for the family and takes just as much time to complete as option 1.

I'm very strongly leaning towards option 2 and want to get started on this again but I am fighting myself as it doesn't help the wife. It will give us back two vehicles which we do need badly (work is killing me with extra hours, wish I got paid for it). So, you might see some stuff popping back up on here soon. I just have to figure out if it's the right way.

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Pete and Mekanix; I brought the stripper in from the garage to warm back up but am having fun days with work where I need to work after I get home. So I hope to get outside this weekend and start in on it.

[Mekanix]

Paint stripper will work or permatex gasket remover will do it at a slower pace..
Just mask off the area you don't want stripped.

[pete]

Glad you got 'em back Scott, and I'd definitely be getting that coating off too.

I've seen a few guys have issues with that as well...

[cowboyup3371]

I found a couple of threads on Google that mention using aircraft stripper so I'll try it. Otherwise, I'll tape off the lower triple tree area and go blast it again at the base.

[Dogma]

Thanks Dogman. How would you recommend doing it for a powdercoated piece? Is it just as simple as taking a scraper/sandpaper/wire brush to it? Or do I need to sandblast it again and start over?

I've never had the opportunity to try removing powdercoat. A quick Googling brings up some unpleasant chemistry. If you have easy access to media blast, I think the thing to do is mask it with some rubber or leather and blast it. Other than that, maybe a soft wire wheel?

Who can tell us the best way to get this stuff off?

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Dogman. How would you recommend doing it for a powdercoated piece? Is it just as simple as taking a scraper/sandpaper/wire brush to it? Or do I need to sandblast it again and start over?

[Dogma]

Yes. You'll need to get the paint off of diameter the bearing will be pressed onto. The bearing will already have a certain amount of interference for a correct fit. The thickness of the paint will only add to that, if the bearing doesn't just scrape the paint off.

I'd get it off of the shoulder the bearing will be pressed against also, though it's not critical. My concern here is that the bearing has a clean, flat surface to seat against, painted or otherwise. If there are any high spots from a flake of paint or something, the bearing race may not seat squarely to axis of rotation. It will prevent the rollers from making contact all the way around the races. The bearing will not pre-load correctly, it'll wear out early, and you'll never get the right balance of drag in the bearing that allows the bike to track while still damping out vibrations. (This is what keeps the steering from wobbling when you let go of the bars on these neutral-handling bikes.)

[cowboyup3371]

Fortunately, they had my steering stem and side stand so I am lucky


But as they only taped off the upper threads and not the entire stem, will I have problems getting the new bearing on?