1980 GS1000S Reluctant Rebuild

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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Carb Boot Alignment

    Here's a couple of pictures of the carbs being installed, as I look at the pictures it's difficult to see the problem.
    When the air box plenum is attached to the carbs it sits about 1/2" lower than where it needs to be to install the 2 bolts at the top, when I lift it up to line up the bolts, the boots slip off the rear of the carbs. It does not want to align easily and I need to really pull on it so I know something is not quite right.

    I have not removed the front boots to check if a different orientation will help, but I did look for any marks on them and didn't see anything. The rear boots look symmetrical so nothing obvious at this point.

    I will order some new GS1000GL boot clamps recommended by Ed, (Nessism) to rectify the issue with the loose fitting ones I have.

    My main focus right now is to see if I can get the engine running, hopefully by tonight I will know if she runs.

    As I’m trying to get everything ready to fire her up, any advice on pre-startup procedures before I push the button.






    Last edited by Kiwi Canuck; 08-04-2013, 10:08 AM.

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  • cowboyup3371
    replied
    Nothing really different but I could never keep it on until I bought them. Otherwise, I slid the carbs into the airbox side first, clamped them down, and then slid up into the intake boots and clamped them down.

    Take a picture of it and post up; maybe there's something else we'll see to give a better idea.

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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Originally posted by cowboyup3371
    Kiwi, I had the same problem last year and found that new boots and clamps on the airbox side were needed to fix it.
    Just put a new set of air box boots and clamps on, what was better or different about the new set you used?
    My old ones looks the same as the new ones, other than the clips which seem too big as they are not tightening down enough on the rear of the carbs.
    Not sure what's up yet but I will see if I can at least run the bike before I take it apart again.
    I am so close, I want to see if the engine will fire up, as I have never seen or heard it run since I bought it 5-6 months ago.

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  • cowboyup3371
    replied
    Kiwi, I had the same problem last year and found that new boots and clamps on the airbox side were needed to fix it.

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  • Nessism
    replied
    Check the carb boots too, they may be angled down instead of up.

    Yup, Suzuki's part system is messed up some. Order one part number and get something different, and/or parts don't fit. I think this problem is getting worse as various supercessions take place and human error compounds year after year without anyone fixing the problems. The factory airbox boot band clamps are too big. You can get the proper clamps by ordering the part number from the 1000GL fishe. Many of the various hardware parts are wrong too, and/or of completely different head marking compared to the original hardware. Splitting hairs here, but for a restoration it's nice to bring the bike back to the stock look.

    Oh well, we do the best we can. Keep going...

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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Thanks AZR and FrankZ,
    I'll take a look at my boots to make sure I have them on the right feet.
    I may have to make an adapter plate to mount the airbox as I'm not sure I want to leave it unattached even though I considered that as an option.

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  • Frank Z.
    replied
    Have the same issue re air cleaner being too low to bolt to frame. Tried a couple different assemblies ?given they're yet another 1-year-special part used on E and S models? and still 1/2" short of blissful unity. Annoying tick i know, but at least the dangly hairbox won't detract from usability.

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  • Guest
    Guest replied
    On the 80' models, the intake boots are marked left and right with the marks at the bottom. If memory serves me right, the airbox boots need to be rotated the correct way so the carbs will align the best they can. It can be a bit of a bugger but once you've done it 8 or 9 times it starts to get a bit easier.

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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Moving along, not

    Got a new batch of parts today, a bit frustrating because almost every thing I was waiting on parts for still can not completely finish as quite a few of the parts do not fit properly.
    The diagram shows the part number, I ordered the correct part number, the parts show up but won't fit, guess Suzuki has a few items that have the incorrect numbers, Bolts too long, or too short, wrong size or type of oring etc. Nothing too big a deal just frustrating as I'm trying to see if I can fire up the bike before the end of the weekend but at this rate it isn't going to happen.

    Oh well, I may resort to cutting the bolts with a hacksaw and heading off to my local Suzuki dealer to get the other parts.

    I did get the Carbs installed but noticed the new Pipe Clamps do not tighten enough to stop the boots pulling off the rear of the carbs.
    Not sure why but when I try to bolt the air box plenum to the frame, it does not line up, seems too low and when I pull it up to line up the top bolts the boots slip off the rear of the carbs.

    Do the inlet boots at the rear of the head go on a certain way or are they reversible? They look reversible, I'm stumped as it seems like the carbs are almost 1/2" low when connected to the front boots only.
    I wonder if the bike has the correct inlet boots installed? I believe the PO told me he changed the boots when he tried to get the bike back on the road in 1997.

    I'll post some pictures in the morning. (if you want to see the inlet boots scroll up a few posts to see them, Posts 140 & 142)
    Last edited by Kiwi Canuck; 08-03-2013, 08:33 AM.

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  • John Kat
    replied
    Originally posted by Kiwi Canuck
    Thanks John that will help, really appreciated.
    Do you have a picture from the right side head stock, where the cables from the handle bar controls and console go?
    Do they go through the frame, like the wiring harness does on the left side, or around the outside?
    I'm concerned about them getting pinched in the steering lock stop if I put them down and through the frame but that looks like were they go.

    Thanks
    On the right hand side, all cables go directly around the steering stem and then under the tank. They don't get pinched because they are high enough above the lower triple tree. I didn't take pictures but I looked at my other GS 1000s to confirm

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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Originally posted by John Kat
    I've just taken my GS 1000 ST ( European model) apart and I took some pictures of the wiring just in case
    Here they are:




    Thanks John that will help, really appreciated.
    Do you have a picture from the right side head stock, where the cables from the handle bar controls and console go?
    Do they go through the frame, like the wiring harness does on the left side, or around the outside?
    I'm concerned about them getting pinched in the steering lock stop if I put them down and through the frame but that looks like were they go.

    Thanks

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  • John Kat
    replied
    I've just taken my GS 1000 ST ( European model) apart and I took some pictures of the wiring just in case
    Here they are:












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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Thanks

    Originally posted by Buetra19
    I just read this entire thread! Awesome!

    Now back to my 80 gs1000 in the driveway....
    Thanks for kind comment, always appreciated.

    I hope there is some value in what I'm posting here, I enjoy doing the work on the bike and I've started to really enjoy keeping this thread up to date and documenting my journey on this project.

    I have a mental deadline to get the bike finished before "Vintage in the Valley" which is August 18th in Chilliwack BC, but I'm not sure I want to rush the project to get it finished as I'm really enjoying this now and don't want it to come to such a sudden completion.





    Cheers, KC.
    Last edited by Kiwi Canuck; 08-01-2013, 01:40 PM.

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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    New Boots

    I purchased new boots for the air plenum but did not intend to install them as I had heard they were a PITA to install, well tonight I thought what the heck, I’ll give it a go.
    First I tried to remove the metal retainers without destroying them, but that seemed pointless as I had new ones anyway. Thought I could donate the old boots as a complete set to someone who needs them as they are still useable but not perfect.
    Anyway this is what they look like when removed by me.

    The new boots went in very easily and with a little synthetic grease on the retainer they slipped in by hand nicely and needed only a little help to seat them, I used a flat head screw driver to push them the last mm or so. Once seated the rim of the retainer is not longer visible, see the 2 right ones are not seated yet.



    Boots installed and test fitted on the bike.

    Last edited by Kiwi Canuck; 08-01-2013, 12:14 AM.

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  • Kiwi Canuck
    replied
    Front Master Cylinder Leaking

    Well , my first redo, and I'm sure it will not be the last, seems I pinched the new oring I installed in the M/C reassembly.
    I remember it being very tight when I went to push it in, and it didn't feel quite right when it finally went in, oh well new oring seal on the way.

    Will also need to repaint it as the fluid has softened the paint a little.



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