92 GSXR 1127 engine into 750F Katana, [sick]
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Man, what a tedious process it is to tune carbs, the gas stench is so depressing.
Anyway, on this project I got the idle down to normal range, but below 2000 it wants to die out.
I have some more things to try, and check out. -
Guest repliedShould consider a first gen busa front end for that, my sons 90 600 has one on it. Looks really nice with it, straight spoke wheel will match your rear.Leave a comment:
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It is so painful waiting for spring.
Southerners may gloat now, but not May through October.Leave a comment:
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Fitting the body panels on and adjusting new fitting issues.
The taller block raised the carbs, that raised the airbox, that pushes up on the tank.
See the gap between the side panel and tank?
Was able to get the shark gills to fit, had to cut some away from the lower side.
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Bigger back wheel and tire too
Ok, I uploaded a 88-92? gsxr 5.5 wheel with 190/50 Shinko into my 1990 Katana swingarm.
Measured 9" across at first and I needed another half inch to get the caliper in there, so I pushed it out to 10.5".

OK This Will Work!

The 190 is actually 195 wide, with 7mm clearance on the right.

Only 4mm clearance on the left

I want to get a 180/55 in there, 170/60 acceptable.
The brake arm will need to be kinked out 5-10mm, and a longer axle bolt would be a good idea too.
Last edited by Buffalo Bill; 11-25-2015, 02:59 PM.Leave a comment:
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I put in a bid. We'll see....Yes that seat came with the bike. I bought another to mod back in 2011 and kept the 1st unmolested.
That modded seat was so successful I decided to keep it as is, and do this mod with the 1st seat.
You can't make a bike lift for the price of this one. Venom bike lift-ebayLeave a comment:
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Yes that seat came with the bike. I bought another to mod back in 2011 and kept the 1st unmolested.
That modded seat was so successful I decided to keep it as is, and do this mod with the 1st seat.
You can't make a bike lift for the price of this one. Venom bike lift-ebayLeave a comment:
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Is that a spare seat? I need to make a lift for my 750, as it's center stand is gone because of the header.Leave a comment:
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Anyway, this gsxr seat cowl came in the mail today. I adapted it to my bike and shaped the seat foam for better track usage.
I'm now using a lift, because the center stand did not clear the 1100 exhaust.
Last edited by Buffalo Bill; 11-20-2015, 04:40 PM.Leave a comment:
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No I did not mean CDI.
T.P.I. OR P.E.I. is what Suzuki Gs and first 3 generation GSXR use
Pointless Electronic Ignition - Transistorized Pointless Ignition- brain boxes that control a pair of collapsing field style coils - which is what GS - GSXR ignition systems employ.
there is no capacitor discharge triggering a rising field style coil which is installed on a kick start battery-less self energized ignition system like a KX YZ RM .
people confuse what they have and mix match parts that sort of work but never quite right - oh it will run but not right
the term is sort of universal but there are very distinct differences.
brain box, igniter, blah blah --- transistors replaced the mechanical breaker points system . and it is NOT Digital like the RE-5 and Fuel Injected bikes with 3D timing mapsLeave a comment:
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TPI: Throttle Port Injection? You must have meant CDI box.I love this project -if it was a 600 chassis/body that would really make it a sleeper...
What ignition signal generator are you using? Have you checked where the spark is happening during the runaway idle? possibly your carbs are ok and the starting position of the ignition is too advanced . just a thought. idle speed advance has to be lower than 13 degrees BTDC
TPI boxes from 88 - 92 gsxr 750/1127 interchange.. The 88,89 600 katana is the most aggressive advance curve and makes a 1127 SCREAM.Leave a comment:
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Sounds right, thanks!
Bummer they moved the idle screws under the carb throat. On the older GS it's at the top and easy to reach.
For that reason I haven't tried turning them as the motor is running, kinda hard to reach.Leave a comment:
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that is the just the starting point- lean idle drop tune each cylinder individually with the mixture screw only - looking for a positive response on each of the 4 cylinders. and then idle speed should become controllable.
#1 get it running #2 idle drop tune #3 set idle speed #4 synchronize #5 idle drop a second time for super fine tune - OR repeat #2 and #4 until you can control #3 IF NOT you have a different prob.
if you still cannot get the thing to idle, this is the point where you should be able to identify if you have a - fuel control problem , an air leak, or a mechanical linkage problem or a ignition timing problem-Leave a comment:
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For just getting one step closer to final tune, isn't that the right way?Leave a comment:
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