1984 Katana 7/11

[Guest]

I got the ignitor mounted up yesterday, I'm really hoping there's enough length to allow the signal generator to plug in as normal. It's higher in the frame this way but closer to the right side also. Not that it's a big deal if I need to extend it a bit.





On another topic, one thing I did work out with the headlight in place is that there is no way the GSX ignition switch I got will fit. The base is just way too bulky and either hits on the back of the headlight or on the fork stanchion.

Looking closely at it, the majority of the bulk is there for the steering lock, so I figure if I can get the barrel out, I might be able to shorten it signficantly and remove a lot of that bulk, meaning it will be much easier to mount and make things much neater.

I tried dismantling it yesterday but no joy so far. Apparently there are three roll pins holding the mechanism in. None of my small drill bits want to work to drill the pins out and I can't find screws small enough to thread in to pull them out.

Anyone else tried dismantling a lock like this? Any thoughts/tips?

[Guest]

I did get it dismantled last night, but there was collateral damage... the three holes around the circumference are actually for roll pins which it turns out are quite tough to remove! Nigh on impossible if you have no clue like me... I started trying to drill them out...

I thought I had it when one side appeared to move a touch when levering it up, so I persevered with drilling the other two. I thought I had them as I swear it was levering up a little, but I must've imagined it as the alloy cracked on one side... said bugger it and did the other as well. Was really hoping not to destroy it but you get that... just need to make up an alternative much shorter/less bulkier housing and should be good for a neat little genuine Suzuki ignition switch. Hopefully I can drill and tap the roll pin holes for some grub screws or something similar.





I also ordered a bunch of little bits and pieces from Mick Hone including a seat lock and latch and the headlight cushions.

That should be enough to get the headlight mounting sorted so I can work out the ignition switch location, and also get me sorted with the correct positioning when making the seat/tail piece mould and getting it glassed.

Just gotta get some glassing materials so I can start on that process also.

[Guest]

Putting a list together of the fibreglassing materials I'll need... feel free to chip in with any bits or pieces I'm missing or anything that's out of whack...

My guess is I'll end up with 3 to 4 square metres by the time I finish the Kat seat/tail piece and do the 450 seat as well, so quantities below are based on that and whatever's the best value to purchase.

5 metres 450gm chopped strand mat
4kg polyester resin
1kg white gelcoat
100mL MEKP
311gm Release wax
1L PVA liquid release agent

I'll also be grabbing a bunch of wooden tongue depressors, rubber gloves, mixing/measuring containers, etc.

The goal really is as follows:

I'll use the bottom front of the seat and probably the rear of the tail piece as moulds to create a fibreglass mould.

These will be stuck to some foam which I'll use to shape the "pillion" area and join the two moulds made above.

Get that all shaped nicely, protect the foam with plastic/tape as required, then gelcoat it all.

Wax then liquid PVA and make the piece.

The same process will be used to create the actual seat that will be upholstered and then bolted to the longer piece... if that makes sense...

[nvr2old]

Sounds like a plan, Pete. Didn't see in your list..paint brushes for spreading out the resin over the matt. You probably already know, but just throwin' that out. Get cheap ones..at your local hardware store..get lots of them. Use once, toss it. Cleaning them is near impossible. I'll be anxious to see the progress.

[ShadowFocus603]

I like rollers as well to help get as much air out of the part or repair being made as possible.

[Guest]

Hahaha yes Larry, lots of brushes!!! That is definitely something on my list! So obvious I missed including it

Yep Shadow, definitely... as per below

Dug out my left over supplies from the 450 tail piece and I have 2/3 to 3/4 of a metre of CSM in there plus the compression roller:

[Guest]

One of the guys over on KA corrected my use of gelcoat... as I'm making a male mould I should be using flowcoat otherwise the gelcoat will never go off and cure as it is constantly exposed to air.

[Guest]

Well I haven't been completely idle lately, but not a whole lot of time on the Kat unfortunately.


This is what I've got done...


Warning, the next few photos show my welding... it can be scary!


To get the headlight housing to fit, I knocked the nuts off the back of the frame with a cut off wheel on the dremel, then welded on a couple of steel offcuts a few mm thick.


I also managed to fill the original holes somewhat reasonably.


My welding is improving with the MIG but my grinding is getting even better... I'm still managing to burn a hole through thin bits here and there.


Now I just need to work out the location of the new holes and drill and tap them.








I also got the joins welded on the tail light bracket and rear mudguard.


Again slightly improved welding and much improved grinding...








I've made a decision to steal another guy's idea after looking hard at the seat and tail piece... I was hoping to be able to use the inside of the tail piece to make a mould from, but the shape of it is going to make that pretty impossible to do so I would have to go back from carving/shaping it from foam which would be a bit of a nightmare.


The rider's seat will have foam of course but the pillion area will be fibreglass but upholstered over the top so you can't sit on it but it will still look right.


I'm making the front section of the mould from the existing seat pan and will shape the pillion area from some foam.


Got the matting cut out:





Double checked the tape appears to seal the seat nicely and applied some PVA release agent (I did spread the pooling out after taking this):





I was planning on 6 layers to give the mould a real sturdy base but stopped at 4 as it was getting a bit unworkable as I think I wet it way too much:





One mistake I made which I hope doesn't come back to bite me is I didn't wet the matting out before laying it on. I remembered I should've done this about half way through... that's why the very edges aren't wet. As they're over the edge of where the mould will end I'm hopeful it won't matter.


I'll probably add one more layer to the bottom and another to the top once it's cured, the top layer will be so I have enough material to sand back and make smooth.


The cold weather at the moment means it's still a bit wet and hasn't cured yet so I can't try to remove it from the seat... fingers crossed it sealed well and no resin has gotten through to the seat pan.


And finally, I think I have my ignition switch sorted ready to make a new housing for it.


I used some plastic rod I've got here to make a sort of adapter which is much shorter than what's in the stock barrel that activates the steering lock.





Ends up about 20mm shorter than stock and will also let it be a hell of a lot less bulky.





Once I work out a housing for it, I'll mount it under the right side cover like so:





Still plenty more to go but at least I've got a little done...

[Big Rich]

ANY progress is still progress Pete. A project like this is only one bolt (weld / grind / etc) at a time.

Kepp up the good work buddy!

[Guest]

Cheers Rich! And yeah you're right, any progress at the moment is good. Sure is nice to be moving again!

The resin was still a bit sticky on the underside last night so I'll check it again tonight.

I did forget to mention I'm 99% done on the second draft of the harness, so I'll chuck that up once I'm done. It's still a bit messy and tricky to read but nearly there.

[nvr2old]

Boy, Pete..if that resin is taking that long to kick off, you might try a bit more hardener in the next batch. It should be hard as a rock in a couple hrs.

[Guest]

Yep Larry, figured it was taking way too long! However I checked again last night and I don't think it's the resin that's still sticky, it looks like I may have needed more PVA release agent on there. It seems to be the top of the duct tape that's gotten sticky. I knew it wasn't an ideal surface but the best I had around to protect the seat. I suspect it's reacted somewhat with the resin and the heat from curing.

I used a 1% ratio for the resin which should be ok from what I've read.

[Guest]

You can pretty much ignore the colour coding for the moment, but here's the (still messy) revised wiring draft. I think I need to edit the relay shape to get the coil driver connector away from the switched feed connector so they're a little easier on the eyes.


I might have to see if I can thin down the wire lines a bit too while still keeping the colouring obvious enough.

[Charlie G]

Looks nice and neat to me, but as far commenting on it for technical worthiness, I wouldn't know. I can read it fine. Cheers!

cg

[SVSooke]

Don't mind Pete he's just overthinking again