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1980 Wes Cooley in the garage....finally!
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Here are examples of the 79 VM tubes with dimensions. If these measure the same as what Trevor has he has options when ordering.
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I know that!!! BUT the fuel tubes are the same size and length is what I meant. There are a few carbs ( BS) that have closer intake port spacing ..depending on the bikes CCs..but the 1000s should be the same. Least this is how I remember things. Thats why i asked Trevor for some shoulder to shoulder measurements and I can see what the VMs for the 1000s are spaced at. This will give him some more options when looking for replacements.
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Guest repliedSorry Chuck the 80 1000's had BS series CV carbs not the VM's of the earlier models.Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostSame as the 78 1000 nipples if i recall correctly.
Hey Trevor, measure your tee and crossovers from shoulder to shoulder and let me know the numbers. I will measure up the skunk and let you know what they are so youll have some numbers.
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Guest repliedThe 80 S and E came with BS CV carbs not the VM's the 78 and 9 had.Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostSame as the 78 1000 nipples if i recall correctly.
Hey Trevor, measure your tee and crossovers from shoulder to shoulder and let me know the numbers. I will measure up the skunk and let you know what they are so youll have some numbers.
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Well the plan...Originally posted by Vmass View PostLook at how beautiful that thing is....... Well, until you ripped it apart!
What are your plans for the bike, are you doing a restoration or just maintenance and cleaning?
List of things I will be doing..
carbs are with Mark in his ultra sonic cleaner
I bought parts that I thought I would need for sure for the bike months ago...Avon Tires, Sonic fork springs, Robert Barr o-ring kit, inner and outer carb boots, oil pan gasket, valve gasket, clutch cable, exhaust gaskets, etc...
I still need brake and clutch levers, wheel bearings, probably should change the swing arm bushings, float bowl gaskets..
I will clean everything on the bike while it's apart. Including going through the wiring and cleaning and greasing connectors. The battery sitting in the bike all those years caused some rust and corrosion in the battery box and swing arm, so I will clean that up and paint them.
Oh and I need to get braided lines for the oil cooler too.
It's all only money right??
This bike is already in nice shape so I don't think it will take much for it to be a very nice example of a 1000s...
The bike will be a keeper and I plan for it to be the one that will get the loin's share of riding come spring.Last edited by trevor; 10-15-2016, 12:24 PM.
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Damn, on first view I was thinking they were the "after" photos! Stunning.
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Look at how beautiful that thing is....... Well, until you ripped it apart!
What are your plans for the bike, are you doing a restoration or just maintenance and cleaning?
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Same as the 78 1000 nipples if i recall correctly.
Hey Trevor, measure your tee and crossovers from shoulder to shoulder and let me know the numbers. I will measure up the skunk and let you know what they are so youll have some numbers.
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Guest repliedSorry Chuck Z1 doesn't list them for the 80 Cooley,would be worth a call though.
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Yes on the fuel Tee and Crossover tubes. Get them from Z1 at about the same price but faster to get to you. I buy them from Z1 everytime i come across those schlitzzztzy plastic crap ones. The oring kits from Robert Barr will have the new orings for the metal ones so unless you mysteriously snap a metal one off you will never be replacing them again.
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Guest repliedYes very cool Trevor.Was going to offer blasting services but doesn't sound like you will need any.I would replace those carb fittings with aluminum ones like these http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Suzuki-Carb-F...YAAOSwZ8ZXBsVD .That's odd no outer crossover listed,I would contact him to see if he had those to.Have them on my 1000,they are nice!
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Too funny. I spotted them right away too. Had a set on my '77 750 Yamaha, couldn't afford the Koni's. Sometimes us old guys just surprise you with stuff don't we? LOL. If there are paint stripes still on the springs they'll tell you the spring rates are. That's if you can find a chart. Anyway, congratulations on getting it home. It's going to be a great project.Originally posted by trevor View PostHow the heck did you know those were SW shocks??? lol And are they good enough in the first place to rebuild them?
Cheers
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Trevor, you forget how old I am.
Besides, I have a pair that came with my GPz
They were only an average grade shock BITD, which is why they weren't rebuildable
But, they're a cool vintage item
If you don't want them, I could use some nicer yellow bits
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How the heck did you know those were SW shocks??? lol And are they good enough in the first place to rebuild them?Originally posted by Big T View PostCongrats Trevor
I've watched Rob field strip a GS 1000 in an hour or so
If you want to keep those S&W shocks, try this
1. Strip and clean
2. Drill a 4 mm hole on the side, just above the bottom
3. Pump the old oil out
4. Inject some Seafoam Transmission treatment into the hole, leave the shock body upside down for a day or so.
5. Tap the hole for a button head Allen bolt
6. Remove the Seafoam, rinse with some fork oil. Inject a few ounces of fork oil, plug the hole and reassemble/paint/etc
Worked on my GPz
But, knowing you, there will be some Ohlins on there soon
Cheers
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