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Gs1000 Bonneville Bike
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If your going big bore, you will need cams and you will need to degree them. So have the stockers slotted or buy 'em. Yes it will make a difference and sprockets can be reused so your not throwing money down the drain. Ask around what year oem cams are the best to run. Should be able to get cheap ones on ebay. I believe our members from down under gave me these numbers but ALWAYS check first. Cam timing for torque 104 intake/106 exhaust. Race 107 intake/109 exhaust. Always run plus 2 degrees on the exhaust.Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple:twistedevil:, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES
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Kordyte
This year, stock bore, stock cams. Not even going to take the motor apart as it runs reasonably well as is - just adding the GS750 oil pump gear, top end oiler, and oil cooler. We'll mess with our ignition box and jetting to make it run the best it can under the conditions we're in once we're there.Originally posted by limeex2 View PostIf your going big bore, you will need cams and you will need to degree them. So have the stockers slotted or buy 'em. Yes it will make a difference and sprockets can be reused so your not throwing money down the drain. Ask around what year oem cams are the best to run. Should be able to get cheap ones on ebay. I believe our members from down under gave me these numbers but ALWAYS check first. Cam timing for torque 104 intake/106 exhaust. Race 107 intake/109 exhaust. Always run plus 2 degrees on the exhaust.
Next year, you better believe some big cams and adjustable gears!
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stevef.
We do have a fabrication question: we need to narrow the steering stops so that the front wheel doesn't turn so far either way. Anybody have experience with that or have seen it done before? We are thinking maybe weld some stops on the head of the frame, but we don't want to warp it or mess up the bearing race mounting area. Is that really much of an issue or are we making that more difficult than it is?
Ray, we did speak about doing the engine build. We will definitely be using your services for next year. Unfortunately a major source of funding for us fell through so we cannot afford this all at once. The plan this year is to get out there with a bike that's set up for LSR and get our feet wet. We are setting up ergonomics, electronics, and suspension this year. Power will come next year.Originally posted by rapidray View PostCall me at 714,356'784five. I can help you in the right direction a BUNCH!!
Ray.
Thanks! We will be in both fuel and gas in the modified production frame and modified production/partial streamliner frame classes. So, four total classes:Originally posted by freakhousecustoms View PostExcellent progress! Which class(es) are you planning to run?
all of them 1350cc
M/CG
M/CF
MPS/CG
MPS/CF
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I've just epoxied some small aluminum pieces to the stops either on triple or headstock, whichever works better on your bike. Don't know if it would pass tech in that org.Originally posted by stevef. View PostWe do have a fabrication question: we need to narrow the steering stops so that the front wheel doesn't turn so far either way. Anybody have experience with that or have seen it done before? We are thinking maybe weld some stops on the head of the frame, but we don't want to warp it or mess up the bearing race mounting area. Is that really much of an issue or are we making that more difficult than it is?...
I've also seen guys drill holes in the stops (again, on which side works best), tap the hole then use a bolt and nut to have an adjustable stop.Last edited by RichDesmond; 05-31-2018, 06:46 PM.'20 Ducati Multistrada 1260S, '93 Ducati 750SS, '01 SV650S, '07 DL650, '01 DR-Z400S, '80 GS1000S, '85 RZ350
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I didn't bother messing with the steering stops on my GS1000, I just set the clip-ons just before they hit the tank. At the speeds we're shooting for, I personally don't think the handlebar position will be the thing slowing you down. Of course, everyone has their own way about Salt Racing, but I (personally) think it's really not that much of an issue.Originally posted by stevef. View PostWe do have a fabrication question: we need to narrow the steering stops so that the front wheel doesn't turn so far either way. Anybody have experience with that or have seen it done before? We are thinking maybe weld some stops on the head of the frame, but we don't want to warp it or mess up the bearing race mounting area. Is that really much of an issue or are we making that more difficult than it is?
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The M/CG & MPS/CG records will be tough to beat without engine work, but I still say GO FOR IT! I spoke with the current holder of both records on the Salt last year - his beast is a very well put together machine and, if I remember correctly, he also holds a current record at over 200mph (on a different bike/in a different class), so he knows what it takes to go really, really fast. But don't let any of this discourage you, records are made to be broken! Can't wait to see more progress on your build & can't wait to see it on the Salt!Thanks! We will be in both fuel and gas in the modified production frame and modified production/partial streamliner frame classes. So, four total classes:
all of them 1350cc
M/CG
M/CF
MPS/CG
MPS/CF
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Do this....I don't know of a sanctioning body anywhere that would let you have handlebars that hit the tank. Most require a mechanical limiting device.Originally posted by RichDesmond View PostI've also seen guys drill holes in the stops (again, on which side works best), tap the hole then use a bolt and nut to have an adjustable stop.
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Kordyte
These are some good ideas, we'll probably do something like this.Originally posted by RichDesmond View PostI've just epoxied some small aluminum pieces to the stops either on triple or headstock, whichever works better on your bike. Don't know if it would pass tech in that org.
I've also seen guys drill holes in the stops (again, on which side works best), tap the hole then use a bolt and nut to have an adjustable stop.
I agree, I've seen pics of his bike at the last event and it looks nicely sorted. We're not expecting to go faster than him this year, especially in the naked class. I'm curious how much power his bike makes.Originally posted by freakhousecustoms View PostThe M/CG & MPS/CG records will be tough to beat without engine work, but I still say GO FOR IT! I spoke with the current holder of both records on the Salt last year - his beast is a very well put together machine and, if I remember correctly, he also holds a current record at over 200mph (on a different bike/in a different class), so he knows what it takes to go really, really fast. But don't let any of this discourage you, records are made to be broken! Can't wait to see more progress on your build & can't wait to see it on the Salt!
Yes - per the rules, not only the bars can't hit the tank, but the (mandatory) steering damper can't be used as a stop. In other words, our damper travel has to be greater than our steering travel. We're using a late-model sportbike OEM damper, mounted on the fork tube and steering neck, so we need to shorten our steering travel to approximately a modern sportbike's travel. This will also help us fit in our fairing for the MPS classes without banging bars on the edge of it.Originally posted by GregT View PostDo this....I don't know of a sanctioning body anywhere that would let you have handlebars that hit the tank. Most require a mechanical limiting device.
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stevef.
Dude, VERY cool bike!! Thanks for sharing! Can we see the other side too?Originally posted by freakhousecustoms View PostI didn't bother messing with the steering stops on my GS1000, I just set the clip-ons just before they hit the tank. At the speeds we're shooting for, I personally don't think the handlebar position will be the thing slowing you down. Of course, everyone has their own way about Salt Racing, but I (personally) think it's really not that much of an issue.
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The M/CG & MPS/CG records will be tough to beat without engine work, but I still say GO FOR IT! I spoke with the current holder of both records on the Salt last year - his beast is a very well put together machine and, if I remember correctly, he also holds a current record at over 200mph (on a different bike/in a different class), so he knows what it takes to go really, really fast. But don't let any of this discourage you, records are made to be broken! Can't wait to see more progress on your build & can't wait to see it on the Salt!
-Len
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You should check out is Instagram at the same name. Wild stuff and great photography as well.
sigpic
When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"
Glen
-85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
-Rusty old scooter.
Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/
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Wow! Thanks dorkburger! I'm just plodding along, photodocumenting my fun on Insta - glad to see other folks enjoying it as well!
stevef - here's the other side:
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The 1980 bike has about 2,000 original miles, and set all sorts of land speed records. The Katana has about 500 original miles total, even less on the built 1428cc engine. The seller has all sorts of cool documentation on the bikes history, pictures, news articles, magazine articles and ads, from back in the day.
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