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Fuel Tank Sealent. Lesson learnt

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    #31
    Originally posted by 1948man View Post
    I'm letting a 3.5 to 1 solution of molasses sit in my tank now. I found a feed store that would sell bulk molasses for $2.50 a gallon if you bring your own container. I used aquarium rocks before the molasses to get the loose scale out. My question is how do you put the sealant (Caswell in my case) in. Do you plug the sending unit and petcock holes and pour thru the filling hole and then just roll the tank to different positions while leaving the filling hole open? Also how are you sure you have all the rocks out? I don't hear any and flushed with a water hose before the molasses. Do you use a mirror to view the nooks and crannies? Thnx Jim M

    Go to Lowes, Home Depot or any hardware/plumbing store.
    You need to buy some pieces of rubber to plug the holes.

    They sell sheets of rubber for just a couple bucks a piece or less.
    It's maybe 6"x 6" or so in Width and Length.
    They sell them in different thicknesses too.
    I think I bought one about 1/8th of an Inch thick... or so.

    Just cut the rubber sheet to the size of your holes.
    (petcock and fuel sending unit size.)

    make sure you cut the piece big enough, so that it COVERS THE BOLT HOLES too!


    Now find yourself a piece of thin/hard plastic or thin wood.

    Mark on the plastic/wood where your bolt holes are at on the tank.
    Now drill 'em real quick.

    Then just line up all the holes, and bolt the pieces on to plug up the tank!

    (You MIGHT need a couple washers too.....just for safety.)

    So basically, the idea, is to have a rubber piece, followed by a support-piece behind it, to evenly distribute the force, when you bolt it all down.
    (you can't just bolt a flappy piece of rubber on the tank....it won't seal! You need that support piece.....)


    You ALWAYS leave the Gas-cap off or loose if using chemicals....because it WILL explode, if you don't.

    But if your just shaking rocks around in the tank, I guess you can cap it off.

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      #32
      I know two people that have used Kreme. They both said that it was terrible. A while back, I bought a GT750 that had a Kreme job that was obviously botched. This made me decide to go the POR 15 (kit) route. The result was great. The inside of the tank had a beautiful metallic looking finish versus the weird Kreme color.

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        #33
        The best solution for rusted out tanks? A product called Evapo-Rust. You can get it at Harbor Freight for about 30 bucks a gallon, need at least half the amount your tank holds, 3 gallons will pretty much do anything GS. You can buy it on eBay for about 100 bucks for 5 gallons shipped, I use it alot so that's the route I went. This stuff is the BEES KNEES! I've tried all the tricks, vinegar, muratic acid, you name it. Nothing works as good as this stuff. Doesn't take long either, I usually soak 24 hours on each side, rinse it out with water, fill it with gas, done deal. I've done at least half a dozen tanks with it over the past year and it hasn't failed me yet! Oh, and IF you are unfortunate enough to start with a tank that has already had a BAD coating applied that is peeling off? Strip it out with MEK, methyl ethyl ketone, I found it at Home Depot. But BE CAREFUL! This stuff is TOXIC! Wear gloves and make sure and do it in a well ventilated area! A couple quarts of this stuff will completely strip a tank! Once the coating is out, use the Evapo-Rust and soon you will be a happy camper! GREAT STUFF!!!!
        Current stable:

        85 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
        87 Kawasaki ZL1000 Eliminator
        99 Kawasaki ZRX1100 Eddie Lawson replica
        15 Yamaha VMAX - The Maroon Monsoon

        Comment


          #34
          I’ve used MEK before and there were still large patches of sealer remaining after several days of soaking. Paint stripper was more effective on the tanks I stripped. If using paint stripper you have to provide an outgassing vent path or the tank can be damaged.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #35
            I am also looking at Evapo-Rust for some minor rusting in the bottom of my tank.

            83GS1100E_Tornado, it appears that you do not line the tank after the Evapo-Rust. Do you have to repeat the Evapo-Rust treatment after a year or two?

            A friend here in Toronto has suggested Renu at the Gas Tank Exchange (approximately $150). This is some kind of acidic sauce followed by a urethane or epoxy coating. They drill a small hole to make sure they get all the rust flakes out of the tank and then plug it after the coating. I am wondering if this is worthwhile, or if Evapo-Rust would be good enough for minor rusting without further treatment.

            Jim
            1981 GS550T (Long gone)
            1983 GS650G (Rolling rebuild is now a full rebuild.)

            Comment


              #36
              Nope, don't need to reline the tank. Haven't had one "around" for longer than about six months, so can't sware to the long term effects. If you keep it full of gas, I can't see why you would ever have to line it?
              Current stable:

              85 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
              87 Kawasaki ZL1000 Eliminator
              99 Kawasaki ZRX1100 Eddie Lawson replica
              15 Yamaha VMAX - The Maroon Monsoon

              Comment

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