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Forks leaking after new seals!

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    #16
    Need to get back to the 1100 and redo that fork seal. I plan to take the components from the fork tube to a hydraulics shop to have bushings made, I think they will do it.​
    Just been too busy with other stuff, but every time I mention the mountain of quilting stuff, card making stuff etc. in our office/work-room to my wife she comes back with the packed garage. Worse yet I have a 1976 Goldwing GL1000 in a friend's barn in NE that I began resurrecting (been sitting since 1985).
    By the way, I sure prefer the way the GS 1100L handles compared to the V4750 Magna, the fork angle is different. I just never grew up to be too tall. As for the GL1000, I used to ride a 1946 Indian, but never had a lot of desire to ride a heavy bike. The challenge of the resurrection is kind of fun though. One of these times it will be for sale also.

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      #17
      Originally posted by bgraf View Post
      Just been too busy with other stuff, but every time I mention the mountain of quilting stuff, card making stuff etc. in our office/work-room to my wife she comes back with the packed garage.
      That's good. My wife puts up with a lot out of me (junk about).

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        #18
        I always replace all the bushings with a fork seal leak. It's more often the cause than a leaking seal. As a former dealer service manager , unless they're unavailable use OEM seals and gaskets. The cost of time and money by doing it twice is not worth the savings. Would also suggest that when the forks are out, check the steering head bearings. If it has a detent at dead center, the races are dimpled and need to be replaced. This and improper steering head bearing adjustment are root causes of steering head shake. If not, remove trees and re-grease. OEM grease is lousy and was used very sparingly. Torquing the steering head nuts to right before binding is slightly OCD but is easier to feel when the forks are out and with new fork oil, adjustments and sometimes new tires, its like getting a new bike. Tighten till binding, then slowly back the nuts out. Go back and forth a couple of times, you can feel it. If the bikes wanders back and forth when done, their over tightened and are fairly easy to adjust without any disassembly.
        Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
        Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
        Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES

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          #19
          Thanks limeex2. Thought I had the bike sold, but then the buyer had it for a few months while I waited for the rest of payment, until he realized he couldn't. Now I just got the carbs back on after a cleaning. Of the bikes I have owned I liked the 56 Norton 600 the best for handling. It would out-corner just about anything going even though it was not a fast or powerful bike.

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