Fork seal replacement question...

[Guest]

One of my "new" aftermarket (K&L) fork seals is leaking. I've bought a new set of OE seals, but should I replace them both?? Only one side is leaking, and I'm not really looking forward to disassembling the fork leg again.

[DanTheMan]

Since I'm basically lazy, run out of time, and like to ride too much , I'd just replace the leaky side, leave the other one.

[bonanzadave]

I have one leaker as well but Im sure I f'ed up the tube somehow. I have had 3 seal in it and even swapped tubes in the forks. I tried to fix the pitts with steel putty but it didnt stick. Basscliff said he knew someone who had good luck using JB weld on the pitts.

[Guest]

I have one leaker as well but Im sure I f'ed up the tube somehow. I have had 3 seal in it and even swapped tubes in the forks. I tried to fix the pitts with steel putty but it didnt stick. Basscliff said he knew someone who had good luck using JB weld on the pitts.

I've heard these Pro-Moly seals work pretty well on "non-perfect" tubes...

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/3/14/146/9074/DPITEM/Cruiser-Motorcycle-Fork-Seals-Leak-Proof-Seals-Pro-Moly-Fork-Seals.aspx?SITEID=Google_Pro_Moly_Fork_Seals&WT.mc_ID=10001&WT.srch=1&esvt=GOUSE337843541&esvadt=999999-0-3886725-1&esvid=333826&gclid=CMXp0uOuoqICFQqysgodKlFSvQ

My tubes appear to be OK, no obvious defects or pitting - I think the seal itself was faulty. I bought new OE ones only because the local dealer had them in stock & they were less than the pro-moly ones...

[Guest]

Since I'm basically lazy, run out of time, and like to ride too much , I'd just replace the leaky side, leave the other one.

I like the way you think...

[Guest]

The Pro-Moly seals float unlike the stock seals that are set.
I like them. No leaks in a couple of years of hard use.

[salty_monk]

If they are new already I'd leave the leaky one too... Do you have an air valve on that fork? If so the seal is probably not set with age so should be an easy one to pop out with air.

You still have to drain oil but you don't have to take the fork apart.

Dan

[Guest]

If they are new already I'd leave the leaky one too... Do you have an air valve on that fork? If so the seal is probably not set with age so should be an easy one to pop out with air.

You still have to drain oil but you don't have to take the fork apart.

Dan

I saw that on another post here as well... I will certainly give that option a good look before breaking the fork tubes apart.

thanx

mike

[salty_monk]

I have done it a few times just using a bicycle "track" pump. (Big upright pump with a T handle).

On forks that haven't had the seals out in a while you need a lot of PSI but on yours it should be easy.

Drain oil first & make sure you wrap a rag round the top as it spits oil when it goes....

Also make sure you remove the clip that holds the seal in first (obviously)

Black water waste pipe makes a good seal driver to put new seal on (as you need the length). Home Depot has a 2' length of the right diameter for not a lot of money that is perfect.

[bwringer]

I've pulled old seals out with a drywall screw when we lacked proper tools and the damper rod wouldn't budge.

This takes VERY steady hands to very gently drill a tiny pilot hole for the screw. Protect everything with electrical tape or duct tape. Once the screw bites into the seal, grab the screw with pliers and lever the old seal out.


Also, I'm a big fan of the Pro-Moly Leak Proof seals. They do indeed work far better than expected on pitted fork legs. Just make sure you use a stone on the pits to knock off the sharp edges.