Leaking Forks! Advice please.

[Argee]

It's a great day for a ride, but I've found that the front forks on my 1982 GS1100 GL are leaking oil.

I'm pretty sure that a fork refurbish is going to be the next GS maintenance that I need to do.

I've found BassCliff's guide and Mr Matchless' guide too and now I need to find a decent (and preferably quick so I can enjoy this weather sooner) supplier of replacement parts.

Does anyone have any advice on suppliers - or comments as to what I need to do?

Thanks in advance,

[terrylee]

I would stick with oem on something like that, check Basscliff site and he lists some good vender. There is Suzuki Boulvard lots people on here use. Good prices, shipping takes a while it seems. terrylee

[BassCliff]

Hi,

As of late I have been using G&S Suzuki. I spoke with the owner and he's supposed to be joining us here in the forum soon.

You will find an extensive list with most of our favorite vendors in your "mega-welcome". If you didn't get your "mega-welcome" I apologize and recommend that you CLICK HERE.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[chuck hahn]

I agree with the stay with Suzukim OEM seals. But in the interum, you can try the plasitc film trick...use a thin piece of plastic film ( such as picture negative plastic ) and insert it between the fork and the seal. Drag it in an up and out motion as you go around the fork. This will drag any gunk stuck between the fork and rubber out and just may temporarily stem the leak to some degree.

[Argee]

100 psi and still not shifting!

I have received my OEM parts from G&S Suzuki (thanks BassCliff) and started work.

One of the forks was pretty much empty of oil, so I thought that the film negative trick (thanks chuck hahn) would've been a little too optimistic.

However, having removed the retaining clips and pressurised the forks to about 100 psi for several hours, the old seals are showing no sign of shifting!!!

Does anyone have any suggestions for persuading the old seals to shift? I'd rather not take a knife to them if I can avoid it.

[hampshirehog]

Take them to bits. You can give everything a really good clean then.

[hjfisk]

Pull the forks from the bike and break them down and clean them out properly , then put them back together and know exactly what you have

[GreatDane]

Have a look at this video on Youtube.

I did the same thing as he did and used the inner tube to drive out the seal and inner bush. Came out without too much trouble. Am in the process of putting everything back together now.

Good luck

[GreatDane]

Oops just realized I didn't put the link. Sorry about that

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cSYiIl8gQk

[Argee]

Special tool

Thanks for the advice (and for the video link GreatDane.) Looks like I'll be making a special tool tomorrow.

Mr Matchless says that you need to use a 19mm nut - Is that for all GS types?

[GreatDane]

Hmm. Not sure about the nut size being the same for all. On my 450 5/8" worked for me (It's what I had laying around). Hopefully someone else with your bike will chime in.

I noticed that when the damper rod came out it has a smooth tapered recess that the nuts sit in which gives enough friction to allow the bolt to be loosened.

Hope this helps.

[bwringer]

The top of a Suzuki damper rod looks like a 12 point socket. For the 1100GL, you will need a 3 foot length of 1/2" threaded rod and four nuts. Any home or hardware store will have these.

There are two sizes of nuts available in this thread (1/2X13tpi). The most common one is 3/4 inch across the flats, which is 19.05mm (close enough to make no difference) -- this is the one you'll need for your bike.

The less common size nut is 13/16 across the flats, which is 20.64mm, or close enough to 21mm. You can sometimes find this size in larger forks, such as the forks on an 1100GK. My tool has the larger nut at one end.

You'll want to tighten the nuts against each other pretty hard, and add some way to lock them together, such as red Loctite. If you have a welder, you can add a couple of spots of weld to lock the nuts into place.

You'll also want to cover the threads on the rod with something so you don't bung up the fork cap threads -- duct tape or wire sleeving work well.

[gearhead13]

I dont know if your forks are the same as mine, but once the bottom allen is taken out, I use the outer tube as a hammer to pound out the old seals. It takes a LOT of pounding for the old seals to pop out, much more than 100 psi would do. The service manual had pictures to show me how. Twice I have tried to take out the bottom allen and stripped it and had to drill it out, I made sure to buy new bolts and washers this time.

[Argee]

Thanks GreatDane.

bwringer - that worked a treat! 3/4in nut did the trick. Less than $10 to make the tool.

Now I'm still having 'fun' trying to remove the blinkin' seals!!

Oh - Hi gearhead13! - with the bottom allen bolt removed, the inner tube just slid out. Nothing to help remove the seal unfortunately.

[eil]

When I rebuilt my forks, I had one aftermarket seal and one OEM seal. The aftermarket one came out with just a bit of compressed air because it was made entirely of squishy rubber. The OEM seal has metal rings embedded and does not come out so easily, unfortunately.

Apparently they make a seal puller that helps get these out. I just used an old screwdriver to pry mine out. I don't recommend this, though, because it would be very easy to accidentally score the seat once the seal finally gives way. (I was just remarkably lucky, I think.)