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    #16
    Originally posted by bobgroger View Post
    I have noticed that the front brake is so firm now that the brake light usually does not come on because the lever does not move far enough. Have to make sure I use the back brake always.
    What bike do you have? I ask because the return hole in some of the master cylinders can clog and lock up the front brakes. You should have at least 1/4" play before you feel the firmness of the brake. Might be an indicator of something that might be dangerous. It's a classic sign to check out the brake system before the fluid heats up and self locks the brake.
    '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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      #17
      Wow. I'll look at that. I rebuilt the master and the calipers with ebay kits, and cleaned out the brown gunk really well. Maybe I should either get an OEM kit or a new master...Thanks for the heads up.
      Bob Groger
      '80 GS850G
      sigpic
      09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
      1983 GS1100e
      82\83 1100e Frankenbike
      1980 GS1260
      Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G

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        #18
        Originally posted by bobgroger View Post
        I have noticed that the front brake is so firm now that the brake light usually does not come on because the lever does not move far enough. Have to make sure I use the back brake always.
        Adjust the switch.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #19
          I am sure of this on the '78-'79 style master cylinder. I have never worked with an '80 model, but they all have to have a return, and the symptom on mine was no lever play because fluid could not return to the reservoir. heat from the rotor locked up the brakes. Suzuki parts on critical components are preferable. Brakes are not a place to try to save a buck. The brake lines should also be replaced and a stainless steel braided line is a great upgrade. They only swell something like 4%, where rubber lines swell quite a bit, old ones can balloon, robbing a lot of stopping power.
          '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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