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Front caliper bolts or 'axles'

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    Front caliper bolts or 'axles'

    I'm having a real interesting time inserting the bolts with the rubber bushings (#10 & 11) back into the caliper carrier. Each time I push the bushing slides up onto the shoulder of the bolt (its supposed to sit in shallower section of the bolt) and gets caught between the bolt and caliper body. What am I missing?


    #2
    The rubber sleeve may have swollen from contamination (perhaps fork oil or brake fluid got in there).

    That said, it's not that tight a fit. Maybe the cavity is packed full of brake grease, and there's nowhere for it to go. All you need is a light coat.

    Or maybe you forgot the brake grease entirely and you're trying to stuff it in there dry...?
    1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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      #3
      I'm using anti-seize on these sliders, same as I've done on my cars. I've managed to get it in there by reducing the amount of grease and by turning and backing out the slider progressively. The result is a slider that doesnt slide very easily - its quite firm (takes decent hand pressure to slide it) and its definately tightyer than the other slider which does not have a rubber boot. How tight should it be?

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        #4
        swap them?

        Did you try to swap them? On my bike they are 2 different sizes.

        1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
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          #5
          Originally posted by oblique View Post
          I'm using anti-seize on these sliders, same as I've done on my cars. I've managed to get it in there by reducing the amount of grease and by turning and backing out the slider progressively. The result is a slider that doesnt slide very easily - its quite firm (takes decent hand pressure to slide it) and its definately tightyer than the other slider which does not have a rubber boot. How tight should it be?
          So that's part of your problem right there. Read your factory Suzuki service manual and find some proper grease. If the plastic piece of the pin came off it's time for new pins anyway though. As mentioned, using the improper material to lubricate the pins can cause damage to them. I believe there was a recall back in the day because these pins would seize up too, so this is not the kind of thing you should monkey around with.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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            #6
            Only the lower caliper bolts have the rubber boots - the uppers are straight metal. The boots themselves are a very flexible rubber, not hard or plasticy at all.

            I think you guys are right...the grease Im using (and what had been used before) has likely caused the boots to swell.

            Is there anyway to shrink them if I then switch to a silicon grease?

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              #7
              Get some grease that's designed for use on sliding pins...http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...115_0361101930
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                #8
                You can probably clean the rubber boots, or replace them - they cost me $7 each from the dealership. Caliper axle grease was $12, annoying to have 8 oz. of it when I used probably .2 oz. They should both slide in and out smoothly when it's clean and greased, and the boots should just kind of spring the pistons back a bit, and seal the inside of those chambers from dust.
                Last edited by Guest; 05-09-2014, 10:04 PM.

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                  #9
                  Just like the others have said, Any brake part that requires grease, especially the pins, need to be greased with brake specific silicon grease. It doesnt attract dirt as much nor will it advesrely affect any rubber it comes into contact with, reducing part wear and the chance of failure.

                  I always used to use synthetic waterproof multi-purpose grease until I was told that, so I made the switch. Why not? Many auto parts stores sell it in tiny pouches up at the counter, (similar in size to a ketchup pack) because you dont need much.
                  Last edited by Guest; 05-10-2014, 12:00 PM.

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