Leaking Forks

[cowboyup3371]

Even after replacing my fork seals for the second time in 4 years, my forks continue to leak. There are a couple of burrs in the Teflon seal on one fork but I have done everything possible to smooth them down and even asked a couple of others to look at everything. I'm starting to wonder if I can replace the Teflon and if so, is part number 6 on this fiche the right part?

http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/...t-fork-gs750ec

Also, I bought my seals through Z1 based on what is listed as the correct ones; is it possible that the fiche is more correct in that I need to install two different seals (parts 8 and 9) in each fork instead of just one?

Please note that although I have a 550T, a PO put 750EC forks on the bike and I don't wish to change them out as I like having the dual brake capability.

[cowboyup3371]

Part number 6 in the fiche is a piece that sits on the bottom of the fork tube that the damper rod fits into; at least the way the service manual describes it and what I know when I take the forks apart. So, that's not what I need yet I'm still not sure if I can replace the teflon

[bwringer]

The only seals on that parts diagram are #8 (the actual oil seal) and #12 (the dust seal -- just keeps gunk out, probably doesn't need to be replaced). #9 is just a spacer.

There's also the copper washer for the damper rod bolt (#17). I've found that it's usually best to replace the spring clips (#11) as well, since they often get rusty and pieces flake off and damage the seals.

Unfortunately, the bushings or sliders (the teflon pieces you mention) are not mentioned on this fiche. You'll find them in other GS fork fiches (for example, the 750ET) listed as "piston", "guide tube", "guide bush", or "slide metal".

The problem is, you still have no info on what "slide metals" would interchange with the ones in your forks.

Here's a list of fork bushings available from Racetech -- there seem to be inner and outer bushings available for 37mm forks in a few different heights and thicknesses, so perhaps you might measure and see which might match what's in your fork:

http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/FMB-ForkBushings.html

[bonanzadave]

I had one side leaking for a couple years. My tubes were smooth as a babies butt (I thought). Tried three different seals. Finally got a new (used) tube from a GSR'er. Leak gone.

[cowboyup3371]

Here's a list of fork bushings available from Racetech -- there seem to be inner and outer bushings available for 37mm forks in a few different heights and thicknesses, so perhaps you might measure and see which might match what's in your fork:
http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/F...kBushings.html

Thank you Brian. I'm going to try calling them this week when/if I have time to get more information.

I had one side leaking for a couple years. My tubes were smooth as a babies butt (I thought). Tried three different seals. Finally got a new (used) tube from a GSR'er. Leak gone.

I sure hope I don't have to go to that extent but I'm wondering if I should just find a set of 550T forks and put the bike back to stock. I would like to keep the dual brakes but it's not a huge requirement.

[posplayr]

When I have had my forks apart I use a HF buffing wheel and rouche to polish the stantions. Chrome is actually quite rough . There is a noticeable change in appearance. It also helps if there are any noticeable nicks or other flaws.

[rudeman]

Has anyone successfully used the bicycle pump method of seal removal?

[Missile99]

I had some seals that weren't that old but started leaking. This time I bought OEM seals and new dust boots. The forks are completely disassembled now to clean everything good because I don't want to mess with this again. What brand name seals are coming from z1 or are they OEM?

Rudeman, even though my seals were leaking pretty good, they popped after an hour once pressurized to 190 psi. I used a typical 12v compressor for travelling that is 250 psi max. $10-$30 and I'll never travel without one. The bicycle pump like BassCliff used in his tutorial will only take a bit longer. Drain them and don't forget to take the spring clip out first. I had my springs out too but not sure if this matters.

[tkent02]

If you have a hydraulic press, fill the forks completely with some old motor oil, screw the caps back on and and press them down after removing the seal retainers. They pop out like they were made of butter, it takes only a few seconds.

[rudeman]

Rudeman, even though my seals were leaking pretty good, they popped after an hour once pressurized to 190 psi. I used a typical 12v compressor for travelling that is 250 psi max. $10-$30 and I'll never travel without one. The bicycle pump like BassCliff used in his tutorial will only take a bit longer. Drain them and don't forget to take the spring clip out first. I had my springs out too but not sure if this matters.

Thanks, Missle.

The seals from Z1 are aftermarket: http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...item=KS16-1029

[Missile99]

Just like for brake rebuilds, it seems like most here say go OEM for fork seals as the best option otherwise they might leak after a while.

[salty_monk]

I've used bike pump method a few times. Works well.

I've also used 2,000 Grit wet & dry to smooth out the uppers on tubes where I can feel roughness.

I've had good results with Z1's aftermarket seals although I've read OEM last longer for some.

[rudeman]

I have a question...I have two 1000s a '79 E and an '80 S. Suzuki changed the fork seal retainer from the earlier large snap ring and washer to the wire spring retainer.

My question is: Are they interchangeable?