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Getting old fork seals out?

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    #31
    Doesn't bother me to ask for advice. I don't know everything, never said I did.

    The way you said that seems like you know everything

    I learn something everyday, I like it that way.

    Really, 95% of the educated people do not have common sense. So you are saying that 95% of the educated people on this forum have no common sense. Nice talking about those 95% on this forum.

    Boy oh boy, this thread has drifted hasn't it
    1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head
    1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017

    I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

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      #32
      What does the BJ in your name stand for??
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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        #33
        I thought this thread was to help a member with his fork seals. Maybe you two should find another place for this.

        1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
        1981 HD XLH

        Drew's 850 L Restoration

        Drew's 83 750E Project

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          #34
          If you really want to know, it stands for B series Toyota Diesel engine. The F stands for gasoline F series engine, the J stands for the style of body for a Land Cruiser, 40 is the generation.

          There, now you know. What did you think it stood for?
          1978 Gs1085 compliments of Popy Yosh, Bandit 1200 wheels and front end, VM33 Smoothbores, Yosh exhaust, braced frame, ported polished head
          1983 Gs1100ESD, rebuild finished! Body paintwork happening winter 2017

          I would rather trust my bike to a technician that reads the service manual than some backyardigan that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix things.

          Comment


            #35
            I usually drain the old fork out,Some remove the cap by depressing the cap and removing the clip, If it is that style. Some times I have had to used a propane tank to soften the rubber and corrosion, If no clip just remove the cap keeping in the order the parts. There should be a dampening rod holder up in the bottom center of the lower fork leg, Usually an 8mm.You may need a dampening rod holder, Usually and impact will get it out but not tighten it.Remove the clip under the dust boot, Place some rags in a vice not to damage your lower fork legs, Then just yank them apart the bushings will stay on the fork leg. I use some thin plastic when reinstalling the seals not to damage them. Use blue loctite on the dampener bolt and blow it dry, Don't forget the copper washers, Reassemble as taken apart. May need a seal driver, Add the proper amount and weight fork oil. Hopes this helps a little.
            Last edited by gs11ezrydr; 06-14-2015, 07:40 AM.
            sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

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              #36
              I'm so ****ed off right now that I just feel like punching someone in the throat.

              Tried seal puller from Harbor Freight.
              Tried a blowtorch.
              Tried pliers, screwdrivers, and tin snips.

              All I've managed to do is dent the outer rim of the fork and scratch up the bushing and spacer below the oil seal.

              Going to take the pieces to a mechanic tomorrow and pay him $65 and hour to finish the job and repair any damage I've done . . . like I should have done in the first f#cking place!

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                #37
                If you guys will quit bickering and look at his picture....



                you will see the seal retainer clip is still in place. That just might be why the seal won't come out.


                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                  #38
                  I removed the clip. Unless there is a second one hidden in there that I don't know about.

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                    #39
                    No, just the round wire clip shown in the picture.


                    Life is too short to ride an L.

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                      #40
                      I have used a press to remove seals. Assemble the fork tubes, don't need the springs or anything else. Make sure that retainer ring or clip is out. Just the inner and outer tubes, and anything it needs to hold oil, like the drain screw and the top cap. Fill the fork to the top with oil, no air space. I just used old motor oil. Use the press to compress the forks, the seal will squeeze out very easily. Once the seal moves a little you should be able to pick it out easily.



                      You could probably use a big hammer instead of a press but the oil will fly everywhere.


                      Life is too short to ride an L.

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                        #41
                        Paid a visit to the local motorcycle mechanic. Even he was impressed by how hard it was to get the seals out, but they are FINALLY out. Best $20 I've ever spent.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Fjbj40 View Post
                          I teach at a college now, for the last three years MY students have won the National Skills Competition, gold for 2 years, this year silver. We have one of our grads going to the World Skills in Brazil this year. We have one of the best reputations in Canada in our trade among employers.
                          Haha; there's nothing like the look of dumbfoundedness on a new-start's face when he/she realises that the workshop doesn't have the fancy kit they were trained on. Some of them go on to become really good mechanics after they learn some old-school methods.
                          ---- Dave
                          79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                          80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                          79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                          92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by HobzGoblin View Post
                            Paid a visit to the local motorcycle mechanic. Even he was impressed by how hard it was to get the seals out, but they are FINALLY out. Best $20 I've ever spent.

                            Curious,,,,,,,,what was used to get them out ????????????????????????????????????


                            .

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                              #44
                              Tryed every prying tool I own. No luck. and yup taking a propane torch to the inner top ring on the fork lower and they slid right out. No bubbling of clear coat and no scratches

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                                #45
                                Actually I just had my first stubborn fork seal on a fork that I am refinishing anyway so I tried a torch on it and was surprised how little heat it took. The fork was only really warm when the seal slid out. You could still grab fork by the lip with your hand and it was only u comfortably warm.
                                '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/

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