Dual banjo vs distribution block

[Dizzixx]

What is everyone opinion on the various ways to achieve a dual caliper setup. I ask because I am doing the salty monk conversion on a 78 GS 750. As part of this I am converting the bike itself (fork outers) from single to dual caliper. I would like to know everyone's thoughts on the following:

• Single line from master to distribution block, two independent lines from block to each caliper
  • This is the OEM preferred setup I believe on most bikes (though I think I read somewhere about Ducati's and Aprilla's in some flavors coming with dual banjo setups from the factory)
  • 6 connection points, 6 connections
  
  
• Two independent lines using dual banjo at master cylinder direct to each caliper
  • Makes the bars look busy/cluttered? Maybe stiff steering or something?
  • 3 connection points, 4 connections
  
  
• Single line from master cylinder to RH caliper connected with dual banjo, single line from dual banjo of RH caliper up over fender to LH caliper
  • How to route the line up over the fender without looking funny?
  • 3 connection points, 4 connections

In theory they should each use roughly the same amount of line except maybe the dual banjo at the master cylinder which I can see taking more. Given that in each instance the hydraulic circuit is single point of failure I am not sure if one method is more or less failure prone than another but that is something that concerns me.

Thoughts?

[Guest]

The two lines straight from the master is easier to bleed. Other than that I don't think there really is anything in it one way or the other.


Mark

[Guest]

I just put new lines on last week. Master cylinder to right caliper, then from right to left. I measured and priced out each way, that was cheapest. No issues at all bleeding them.

[tkent02]

I never liked the block on triple clamp mainly because it's only held on by a single bolt, if it gets loose the moving around might make the banjo bolts loosen and leak.
Never had one fail, it just looks poorly designed, and I can't imagine with a few million bikes sold there haven't been a few fall off.

I prefer two lines from the master down, but I really prefer having a single brake if I can get the one finger stopping power I like.

[GregT]

Two lines from master for me every time.

[SVSooke]

I never liked the block on triple clamp mainly because it's only held on by a single bolt, if it gets loose the moving around might make the banjo bolts loosen and leak.
Never had one fail, it just looks poorly designed, and I can't imagine with a few million bikes sold there haven't been a few fall off.

I prefer two lines from the master down, but I really prefer having a single brake if I can get the one finger stopping power I like.

I'll have to go look now but I'm pretty sure the splitter on my 85 750 has 2 bolts,I checked it does.Thought the 78 1000 one had 2 bolts as well but I only see one.I have the singe line from the MC then 2 lines with double banjo on the splitter on the 85 750 and lines with a double banjo at the MC on my 1000.If I was doing it again it would be the same as the 750.

[bwringer]

It doesn't make a damn bit of difference functionally.

Two lines from the master is slightly cheaper, since you're making two lines instead of three, so that's usually what I do unless there are clearance issues on the handlebars.

Many folks prefer a more "stock" look, so they use the stock distribution block.

[SVSooke]

You are right bwringer it makes absolutely no difference functionally so it comes down to aesthetics.I'm not fond of the way the 2 lines look at the end of my 1000's MC.

[bwringer]

You are right bwringer it makes absolutely no difference functionally so it comes down to aesthetics.I'm not fond of the way the 2 lines look at the end of my 1000's MC.

Yup, you're gonna spend a lot of time looking at it. If it's gonna bug you every time you see it, then use a single line from the MC to the distribution block.

[RichDesmond]

The two lines straight from the master is easier to bleed...
Mark

Yes, and this reeeallly matters. SS lines are nice, but a good bleed job matters more. A setup that makes that easy is the way to go.

[Guest]

Yes, and this reeeallly matters. SS lines are nice, but a good bleed job matters more. A setup that makes that easy is the way to go.

+1, all my bikes use the two lines from the master cylinder set up.


Mark

[SVSooke]

Yup, you're gonna spend a lot of time looking at it. If it's gonna bug you every time you see it, then use a single line from the MC to the distribution block.

It's done now and yes it bugs me a bit.I'd rather not spend the $$ at it to fix it either so it will be there to remind me to do 1 line from the MC to a block in the future.

[tkent02]

It's done now and yes it bugs me a bit.I'd rather not spend the $$ at it to fix it either so it will be there to remind me to do 1 line from the MC to a block in the future.

Don't look at it too much, you might run into something.

[Joe Garfield]

If my priority was performance/reliability, I'd go with 2 lines of the M/C. For my bike, I choose 1 line from the M/C to a distribution block with equal lengths of hose to the calipers - equal lengths for equal pressure (I can't argue whether or not there's enough of a difference to matter) and symmetry and aesthetics for my OCD.

[bwringer]

If my priority was performance/reliability, I'd go with 2 lines of the M/C. For my bike, I choose 1 line from the M/C to a distribution block with equal lengths of hose to the calipers - equal lengths for equal pressure (I can't argue whether or not there's enough of a difference to matter) and symmetry and aesthetics for my OCD.

On the scale of brake line lengths and volumes, the length of the hose makes absolutely no difference in pressure (if you had, say, a 50 foot piece of brake line on one side, then you'd probably feel some mushiness from line flex, but there would still be no pressure differences in the system). Basic hydraulics.