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fork hand pump
Suggestions... hand pump for the front air shocks. I want one that doesn't dump the air when you remove the schrader valve from the pump.and has an integrated gauge. Most I saw were 300 PSI... would like one with lower pressure rating so I can get the pressure a little more accurate. I know some folks have suggested Progressive Fork springs but I don't want to go there right now. ThanksTags: None
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I'm not aware of such a pump since the original Suzuki tool, but I'm not really here for that. Progressive brand springs will preserve the squishy, diving front end feel of the stock progressive rate springs. I recommend some straight rate springs (Sonic are good, and not unnecessarily spendy), to limit dive under braking and make turn-in more precise. Add some cartridge emulators to your wish list to take the harshness out of the damping without giving up control of the front end.
Seriously, finding a pump to keep the air forks going is probably at least half the cost of the new springs. Come to think of it, the cheapest way to get away from the need for the pump is get some PVC pipe and make new preload spacers so you don't need to keep pumping the forks up to maintain preload.
Now, maybe you like the air fork adjustability, that's up to you. I don't miss it.Dogma
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That is so hard to do. I got it done a couple times with a small bicycle air pump.
One pump or maybe even 2 was all it takes.
You can not unscrew the hose end fast enough to keep the tiny volume of air from escaping.
Cut some PVC pipe for spacers is easy."Only fe' collected the old way, has any value." from His Majesty O'Keefe (1954 film)
1982 GS1100G- road bike, body, seat and suspension modded
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geol
I am pretty happy right now with the stock front suspension. I was just looking for a low PSI pump with a non-leak feature. Harley sells a 0-60 PSI pump with the no-leak feature but was hoping to find some pump with low max and less cost. I may look into rebuilding the front end at some point but it works nicely now just a pain to get both shocks pumped equally. I found one leaked a lot more quickly than the other when i remove the bleed valve. I had to pump it to 30 PSI and then by the time I got the pump valve removed, it ended up at 10 PSI. The other shock was pretty easy to set at 10 PSI.
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Some pocket-sized bicycle pumps have a no-loss connector. Look at your online pedaller outlets. The 0-30psi requirement is a difficult one, though.---- Dave
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geol
I think you nailed it... almost all are 300 PSI except the ones made for a Harley big twin and those are EXPENSIVE! I had one that was low-psi and gave it away with a bike that had air fittings on the shocks... don't recall which one. Wish I had kept hold of that pump.
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I sprang for the Drag Specialties one with a 0-60 psi gauge. Don't remember the number, but it wasn't cheap.1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red
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You are REALLY over-thinking this problem.
Originally posted by geol View PostI know some folks have suggested Progressive Fork springs but I don't want to go there right now. Thanks
Originally posted by Dogma View PostI recommend some straight rate springs (Sonic are good, and not unnecessarily spendy), to limit dive under braking and make turn-in more precise. Add some cartridge emulators to your wish list to take the harshness out of the damping without giving up control of the front end.
Originally posted by geol View PostI am pretty happy right now with the stock front suspension. ... I may look into rebuilding the front end at some point but it works nicely now just a pain to get both shocks pumped equally.
Now, you will ALWAYS have EXACTLY EQUAL air pressure in your fork tubes and will not EVER have to worry about checking or setting the air pressure.
I thought I liked the suspension on the front of my 850. I installed Sonic springs and now it rides even better. About $90 for the springs, another $10 or so for the oil and about an hour of your time. Don't wait.
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Steve has just served up a large helping of steaming-hot TRUTH. Eat up.
In less polite terms, farting around with air pressure is frustrating and futile. Air pressure in forks is unreliable, a great way to wear out your fork seals, and overall a totally Mickey Mouse, doomed solution to the problem of inadequate 35 year old factory springs. You can't make them work right with a better pump -- the whole idea is fundamentally flawed.
If you are rather light -- less than approximately 160 pounds -- ride rather gently, and prefer a plush ride, then Progressive's progressively wound fork springs might be just the ticket. Otherwise, straight-rate fork springs with a rate appropriate to your weight, riding style, and bike, will give you the best possible combination of performance and ride. Once the springing is sorted out, most of us end up with 10W fork oil.
A few here have also added cartridge emulators and fork braces to their GS forks as well, but these aren't all that necessary.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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geol
Not being sure how my mind was being read, I will leave that alone. I find the stock front suspension fine and the ride great. I asked about the pump because I checked air pressure and the pressure dumped after removing the air gauge. I attempted to fill and the air dumped after filling to 10 PSI. I filled to 30 PSI and it dumped to 10 PSI and stayed consistent and I have both sides equal and the ride is great. I asked about the pump that has an anti-loss feature and lower scale to make reading it relevant because I intend on keeping what I have now. I am sure you guys know more than me and I am not nearly capable of deciding these things and I guess I just don't want to "eat it up". Sorry if this offended those who order me to do what they think I should.... guess i am just being uncooperative. BTW: I am also a fan of Progressive fork springs and have used them in many of my bikes; vintage and otherwise and I weigh a bit more than 160 lbs. They work for me.
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