How Much Brake Fluid from dry?

[bwringer]

I think the OEM crush washers are nickel plated copper. I've seen raw copper and raw aluminum crush washers too, from the aftermarket. All work.

Ya know, I've always wondered why the OEM washers are shiny. Hm.

I once went through an embarrassing number of aluminum washers from a local shoppe at $1.50 a pop. Couldn't get them to seal, never could get that "squish". Turns out they were some harder alloy of aluminum, totally unsuited to sealing duty. In a fit of rage I ordered 100 proper aluminum washers from Spiegler for 25 cents each, which worked perfectly the first time, every time. I don't like using copper; they tend to turn dark or green and look weird.

Back to the original question, I just cleaned, rebuilt, and bled a system tonight using less than half a small bottle of brake fluid. But you can't count on that. Always pays to have at least two of the small bottles around, unopened.

Only squirted brake fluid in my eye once, too. Maybe one day I'll get the hang of this.

[Sam 78 GS750]

Back to the original question, I just cleaned, rebuilt, and bled a system tonight using less than half a small bottle of brake fluid. But you can't count on that. Always pays to have at least two of the small bottles around, unopened.

Yup, seems the large bottle I bought was way too much for the job, and will likely go to waste. Oh well, live and learn.

[Sam 78 GS750]

The torque specs are useless -- what you need is the appropriate amount of "squish" for the aluminum sealing washers.

I think you're right about that. I've never bothered with a torque wrench for brake lines, and never had any issues with leaking. On this build, I've been torquing everything to spec.

Seems manual spec didn't give the appropriate amount of "squish" on the washers. Cranked down to "2 finger tight" with an extra nudge for good measure, and the crush washers were adequately crushed. No leaks after a few more hours with the bungee cord on the brake lever.

[Guest]

The torque specs are useless -- what you need is the appropriate amount of "squish" for the aluminum sealing washers.

As a mechanical engineer I will disagree with that. If someone went to the trouble to provide a torque spec there is a reason for it. If the manual provides a torque number I ALWAYS use it. I have assembled my share of brake systems with a torque wrench and never had a leak at a properly torqued banjo bolt.

I just cleaned, rebuilt, and bled a system tonight using less than half a small bottle of brake fluid. But you can't count on that. Always pays to have at least two of the small bottles around, unopened.

Indeed. Sometimes they go really easily and sometimes it is a fight the whole way. Last summer I was flushing fluid on my wife's ZX6R and was just about done when a moment's inattention resulted in sucking the MC reservoir dry. It took me half a bottle of fluid to get the air back out of that line after that screw up...


Mark