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what did you wrench on today??

and we have a ubo.. unidentified broken object haha, looks like the shift forks are fine and all the gears are fine. Gonna bring bigger tools tomorrow and pop the clutch basket off. Will i need a puller?
 
thebrandonbeezy said:
It does look fantastic man, have you checked your rake and trail since lifting the rear?
Click to expand...

I left the rear stock. No lift. Original shocks as they seem to be working fine. Tree bearings appear solid, smooth. um...whats rake and trail??
 
But since you asked,
It has to do with the handling like how fast it will turn in and how stable it will be at speed, its a balancing act to be honest
 
thebrandonbeezy said:
But since you asked,
It has to do with the handling like how fast it will turn in and how stable it will be at speed, its a balancing act to be honest
Click to expand...

Wow...um..no. i had no idea about that at all. Thx for the diagram. Explains it clearly. I'm just unsure if I have the ability to effect that factor, and what the benefit of doing that would be. I generally aim to keep the stock config, as I'm not savvy with altering them, and the positive or negative changing them would have. But consider my mind fully BLOWN!!! Love learnin new stuff!
 
Pb9717 said:
Truedisk.net , ...guy named Tom in Michigan. $45 for the work, $26 for shipping there n' back....and thanks on the forks...lookin forward to the day when there's NOT anything to polish...
Click to expand...

Disk came back. Lookin NIIIIICE. I forgot to remove the black paint from the perimeter before sending it, and when I got it back it just made the disk look incomplete as far as the resurface...


so I took some emery cloth and stripped the perimeter....NOW its ready for some brake kleen, and install with the new pads and steel brake line on Weds hopefully.

the finished version....




hard to believe its the original 35 year old disk.
 
Well, I accept defeat, or at least a new route forward. I was able to tweak the questionable motor mounting tab into place. Same result of sprocket misalignment. I checked the rest of the mounts as well. I find it odd that there are 4 solid mounting points for the engine while the front 2 have a rubber bushings. While the front 2 were off I was able to get a good look at the weld on mounting lug that was broken off and repaired under the PO's ownership. I was happy to see it looks like a solid repair and is properly aligned. I'm at least satisfied that I checked all that I could. As I said in another thread, nothing is changed, yet everything is changed. It's been this way for years and I will ride it as is until a frame come up.

I will be on the lookout for an 1150 frame or roller / parts bike. A NJ member mentioned a while back that he may know of one. I PM'd him today.

While cleaning up I got the joke. ....20 something years later. I stamped a G on my better tools years ago when we all worked on things and hung out in Dads garage. Someone strategically added letters. It gave me a good chuckle.
http://
 
So at this point, you haven't used your newly-refinished brake discs (which are gorgeous!), so I'm wondering; when you do, what will you look for to determine how well they perform? Stopping the bike is the obvious first thing, but what else?
 
MI GS850G guy said:
So at this point, you haven't used your newly-refinished brake discs (which are gorgeous!), so I'm wondering; when you do, what will you look for to determine how well they perform? Stopping the bike is the obvious first thing, but what else?
Click to expand...

the bike stopped well before I bled the brakes during the front end rebuild. AFter re-assembly it was spongy and poor. Likely to some air on the original rubber brake lines. Goal is to have as grabby , tight and modern stopping power the single disk, single piston caliper can provide. I'll let you know once all parts are in. I hear the steel brake line makes a big difference too.
 
Yes, on the improvement with braided lines. I would also think the newly refinished disc would work best with new pads also.
 
new o-ring chain and sprockets.... amazingly enough, the drive sprocket nut came off with little effort from the impact wrench. Old chain was stretched 2 1/2 links, sprockets really were not in bad shape, replaced them anyway, as you should. HUGE difference in sound and response. Next on my list is that noisy clutch basket.... gaskets and new pushrod on order... gonna give the covers a brushed aluminum look while they are off as well. Watch the noise be vibrating springs... hopefully it is just a very slightly loose nut and really easy to fix.
 
Pb9717 said:
the bike stopped well before I bled the brakes during the front end rebuild. AFter re-assembly it was spongy and poor. Likely to some air on the original rubber brake lines. Goal is to have as grabby , tight and modern stopping power the single disk, single piston caliper can provide. I'll let you know once all parts are in. I hear the steel brake line makes a big difference too.
Click to expand...

Yes, a clean/rebuilt MC & Calipers along with a braided line makes a world of a difference!

dorkburger said:
Yes, on the improvement with braided lines. I would also think the newly refinished disc would work best with new pads also.
Click to expand...

Most definitely agree!


Ed
 
GSXR7ED said:
Yes, a clean/rebuilt MC & Calipers along with a braided line makes a world of a difference!



Most definitely agree!




Ed
Click to expand...

I am NOT rebuilding the master cylinder or the calipers. I'm trying to avoid doing more than is needed. This job can become a real money pit, which I'm trying to avoid. ( plus I dont know how to rebuild a caliper, or a master cylinder, and the light switch actuator in the front brake handle is an easy piece to lose should I need to disassemble.) I'm assuming the new pads, refinished rotor and steel lines is gonna be enough...Oh, and the fork brace is ordered.
 
Pb9717 said:
I am NOT rebuilding the master cylinder or the calipers. I'm trying to avoid doing more than is needed. This job can become a real money pit, which I'm trying to avoid. ( plus I dont know how to rebuild a caliper, or a master cylinder, and the light switch actuator in the front brake handle is an easy piece to lose should I need to disassemble.) I'm assuming the new pads, refinished rotor and steel lines is gonna be enough...Oh, and the fork brace is ordered.
Click to expand...

Pete,

Look at Post 56 to see how dirty the caliper was on my "T".
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?216696-82GS750T-Seal-T-M-Gear-Shift-Oil/page2

It's not an expensive rebuild...Takes more time letting it sit in solvent and using a fine wire brush to get all the gunk out.

Your call...I had lots of time while I was on the road (solo) so it kept me occupied.


Ed
 
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My old starter didn't want to play.... OK it just plain didn't work. I pulled it apart.. seems it's full of what is left of the brushes. Now where did I put the glue? ;)

 
I was trying to find why (in my opinion) a coworkers Buell was underpowered, would not revv smoothly and sputter at random times. Found a vacuum port that the California versions had going to some emissions stuff. This little guy was supposed to be capped off.... Test ride first thing in the morning.

17795830_629936290536979_9140074877401847239_n.jpg
 
Joegs1100gk said:
My old starter didn't want to play.... OK it just plain didn't work. I pulled it apart.. seems it's full of what is left of the brushes. Now where did I put the glue? ;)

Click to expand...


$25 rebuild kit and it's all good. In the meantime.... use a razor to make the dust fine, put it in little viles...you know what the street value of that stuff is.... lol

don't forget some good contact cleaner
 
Rebuilding the carbs on my GSX1100G. Try as I may to keep track of all the little bitty parts, I've lost one of the little pilot fuel screw washers. Dang! Headed over to S&K Racing this afternoon to see if they have one they'd let me have.
 
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