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1982 Suzuki GS1100G Carbs Overflowing into Airbox.

Grimly said:
If the float valves can't handle a fuel head of 4ft, they need replaced.
Click to expand...


I used a K&L o-ring kit (Ebay) when I rebuilt the Carbs. I won't ever do that again. I noted that not all of the float valve seats were snug while I was disassembling them this time, except for Carb 2 which was snug. I was able to pull the seats out with my fingers very very very easily and then to pinch those o-rings off very every very easily with my fingers. They were all snug when I assembled the Carbs. That looseness had to be the material reaction to the gas. I can now compare those o-rings with the ones from Cycleorings.com (Robert Barr). It is possible that the leaks were past the o-rings as opposed to the float needle valves. I hope that was the case. The needle valves look great with no pitting or dulling in the tips and the springs function freely.
 
Update:

I thought I had it all sorted for a good hour but after several restarts which were buttery smooth and easy as cake, did I say easy as cake and I mean easy easy easy, Carb 1 is f@#$%&g leaking. I need to change the float needles. Now I have to find them.....UUUGHHHH. Man I am so close.:crushed:

video = https://youtu.be/y8O32VMjZl4
 
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Update:

I tired to seal up Carb 1 but then Carb 2 started leaking as well. Upon closer inspection, its the float tabs that are contacting the valve seats and therefore not shutting off the valves. I bent down the tabs to get the 22.40 mm needed for the float height but seeing that the valves must be worn it then results it the tabs hitting the seats.

I just measured all of the float valves and they all had a different measurement; 16.88 mm, 16.92 mm, 17.02 mm and 17.2 mm. I measured from the tips to the point where my calipers touched without depressing the springs.

Video - https://youtu.be/aZNbfEnRrsM
 
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Update -

I got the new float needles today and installed them. It didn't solve my issue. I have swapped needles and seats from Carbs 1 and 2 to Carbs 3 and 4, it still overflowed on Carbs 1 and 2. I then swapped floats from Carbs 1 and 2 to Carbs 3 and 4. Now I have Carbs 2 and 4 overflowing. When filling the Carbs from dry state, gas pours out of Carbs 1 and 2 every time then it stops suddenly. I am stumped Guys. I have posted a video below:

https://youtu.be/Qaxdt_Ie32Y

I just noticed something while putting the floats in a bowl of water to float, there are numbers stamped on them but they are all different. The numbers are not uniformed across all of the floats. Could it be that while the Carbs are the original some of the floats or all of the floats are not for these specific Carbs?
 
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Having not read back thru all the posts

1. Have you tested the floats to ensure they float?
2. Are you measuring the float height correctly?
Hold the carb rack engine side down and rotate until the float tab just touches the post on the needle. Measure to the step on the float
3. Did you install the new O rings?
 
Big T said:
Having not read back thru all the posts

1. Have you tested the floats to ensure they float?
2. Are you measuring the float height correctly?
Hold the carb rack engine side down and rotate until the float tab just touches the post on the needle. Measure to the step on the float
3. Did you install the new O rings?
Click to expand...

I did all of the above but they still overflow. I will try some new things on them today.
 
Update - 9:00 PM

Today I investigated the Carbs and I found that 3 of the 4 needle seats are different and this is why they won't seal. One is different because its damaged internally. Its been punched in somehow making the hole smaller. I just looked at them and all of them are Mikuni 2.0 seats.

See videos below:

Testing Carbs - https://youtu.be/GzZcreQBC6Q

Ah Ha!! the seats - https://youtu.be/69_eeLfzZNw
 
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Update - 8/21/2020

Carbs are back together and so far no leaks. I used rubber tipped float valves and replaced the valve seats with some used and shorter valves that the Seller of the needle valves gave to me. Luckily he is a local Guy and helped me out.

https://youtu.be/9XSHHKWh8qM
 
That has to feel good after all the twists and turns you have navigated.
Great to hear a big fan in the background. See so many videos without anything blowing air on the engines
 
steve murdoch said:
That has to feel good after all the twists and turns you have navigated.
Great to hear a big fan in the background. See so many videos without anything blowing air on the engines
Click to expand...

Yep..I am trying keep it alive so I had to get a fan:D Tomorrow I will balance the Carbs.
 
Hello
I am a new member here and I know am complete
Regards
Marioly out of subject but cannot get the hang of creating a new post. I have a GS1100GK and some of the plastic in the fairings and side boxes need fixing. Can anyone tell me what material they are made of and if they are repairable please?
 
Mario Said said:
Hello
I am a new member here and I know am complete
Regards
Marioly out of subject but cannot get the hang of creating a new post. I have a GS1100GK and some of the plastic in the fairings and side boxes need fixing. Can anyone tell me what material they are made of and if they are repairable please?
Click to expand...

Mario

Welcome to GS Resources. I am going to use the product in this link to fix my ABS plastic damage. Look at this link : https://easyabsrepair.com/shop/
 
Folks

I'm back to the original issue of carbs leaking into the airbox and intake boots.

1. I've pulled them off and removed the needle valve and seats. I've cut the seats down so the the floats will only contact the needles. Installed new O-rings and checked float heights (22.4mm) and still have the issue.
2. I'm using my vacuum petcock on my tank so whatever gas is in the line(bike not running) is making its way into the airbox and intake boots, whereas if I'm using the auxiliary tank it just flows continuously into the airbox and intake boots.
3. I don't think gas is getting by the floats but rather somewhere else in the carb assemblies BUT where? Could it be the choke passages that is causing the flooding?
 
Okay, please forgive, but I did NOT watch all your videos. A couple of things I noticed immediately, though, was that you plugged the breather lines from the float bowls. Why? These need to vent to normalize the pressure over the fuel in the float bowl. Another thing, your external fuel bottle is hanging on the ceiling, which creates a LOT of head pressure on the float valves. Your remote tank must be roughly at normal tank level, otherwise you will overpower the float valves and cause overflow.

Edit: I just went back and read more of this thread, and it seems you realize that tank can't be on the ceiling. Hope so anyway.

Regarding the float valves, cutting down the valves, replacing the needles with something other than the originals, etc, is a HARD STOP.

Do yourself a favor and buy four brand new Mikuni or keyster brand float valves and install them. NOT needles, complete valves. Then set up a remote carb holding stand, and perform the clear tube test to assure the fuel level is consistent, and steady, in each carb. No offense, but this thread is two years old and you still don't have a solution. No shortcuts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373792086509
 
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Nessism said:
Okay, please forgive, but I did NOT watch all your videos. A couple of things I noticed immediately, though, was that you plugged the breather lines from the float bowls. Why? These need to vent to normalize the pressure over the fuel in the float bowl. Another thing, your external fuel bottle is hanging on the ceiling, which creates a LOT of head pressure on the float valves. Your remote tank must be roughly at normal tank level, otherwise you will overpower the float valves and cause overflow.

Edit: I just went back and read more of this thread, and it seems you realize that tank can't be on the ceiling. Hope so anyway.

Regarding the float valves, cutting down the valves, replacing the needles with something other than the originals, etc, is a HARD STOP.

Do yourself a favor and buy four brand new Mikuni or keyster brand float valves and install them. NOT needles, complete valves. Then set up a remote carb holding stand, and perform the clear tube test to assure the fuel level is consistent, and steady, in each carb. No offense, but this thread is two years old and you still don't have a solution. No shortcuts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373792086509
Click to expand...


I'm on it. I will update you once its done. I appreciate you and thanks.
 
GalDemSuga said:
I'm on it. I will update you once its done. I appreciate you and thanks.
Click to expand...

I finally got to this issue and its now solved. As advised by Nessism, I bought new seats and matching needles and installed them but the carbs still leaked. I did some YouTube "research" and found this golden gem and that was my issue. Float drop!!

This vid here: https://youtu.be/9W9EHNo8RTA
 
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