1978 GS750e Yoshimura Racking Exhaust - blocks oil drain plug - ideas?

[martin_montreal]

UPDATE found potential solution- will procure
https://www.fumotousa.com/f-111.html
13/16" - I had measured 1/2' of space so will see if I can use a spacer on the rear to get the required gap to install this. If it works, I'll post and you guys will have an option to change the oil without removing the pipes.

Thanks for the input! ​


Fits like a glove but Blocks the Oil Drain Plug. Has anyone fitted an extension on the drain threads? Otherwise, could pull the exhaust, pan and find an alternate location for a drain plug if there is one. I can remove the bolt with an offset 17mm box wrench but putting it back is proving challenging, even with the rear bold loosened and exhaust pulled the maximum inch away at the wheel. Maybe I could fabricate or modify a tool to make it doable but I don't want to have to remove the 8 bolts at the head to change the oil... Ideas and input welcome. Looking for simplest solution though. Thanks.Picture shows exhaust below bike and fringe of the recess where the oil drain bolt is located in the pan.

 

[rphillips]

I haven't had my Yosh. on my 1100E in yrs. just because of oil changing and having to remove the center stand. For me it just ain't worth the effort. Personally, I've not heard of anyone doing anything to make it work, folks I know just deal with it or get a different type pipe. If you come up with something reasonable, let us know... Good luck.

 

[martin_montreal]

I haven't had my Yosh. on my 1100E in yrs. just because of oil changing and having to remove the center stand. For me it just ain't worth the effort. Personally, I've not heard of anyone doing anything to make it work, folks I know just deal with it or get a different type pipe. If you come up with something reasonable, let us know... Good luck.

Thanks. The previous 4 into 1 may have been a Hooker but there was no issue accessing the drain plug. I never had nor do I need a centre stand. Just figured there might be a solution: 1. a special tool worst case that works with the one rear bolt removed 2. an elbow fitting that someone has already made 3. pull the pan and find another location, drill out and thread another drain plug. Cheers.

 

[Burque73]

How about leaving the plug alone and just sucking the oil out from the filler hole? Have seen folks do that with cars.

Edit- Come to think of it there's probably no clear passage straight to the oil pan, is there? I've drawn out oil when I accidentally overfilled it, but haven't attempted to completely empty the pan.

Good luck

 

[first timer]

You just remove the exhaust, that is the trade off running a yosh. Keep your exhaust stuff clean and anti-siezed, doesn't add that much time to the process

 

[martin_montreal]

How about leaving the plug alone and just sucking the oil out from the filler hole? Have seen folks do that with cars.

Edit- Come to think of it there's probably no clear passage straight to the oil pan, is there? I've drawn out oil when I accidentally overfilled it, but haven't attempted to completely empty the pan.

Good luck

Thanks but no. I like to let all the oil drip out but thanks for your input.

 

[martin_montreal]

You just remove the exhaust, that is the trade off running a yosh. Keep your exhaust stuff clean and anti-siezed, doesn't add that much time to the process

Thanks but no 8 bolts at the head with crush washers that I'd rather not touch. I measured 1/2” clearance for an elbow which I'll get machined. Need to go measure the length after the 90 ? turn but if lucky the machine shop will be reasonable on me lol. I was just hoping someone had made this part.

Similar to this mock up from tractor hydraulic bits on hand

 

[Burque73]

Thanks but no. I like to let all the oil drip out but thanks for your input.

Understood. Something like this? More than 1/2inch though...

https://ezoildrainvalve.com/motorcycles.html

 

[martin_montreal]

Understood. Something like this? More than 1/2inch though...

https://ezoildrainvalve.com/motorcycles.html

- yes. thanks, I was looking at those this morning from a post somewhere and fyi someone piped in that Fumoto make a higher end.part. I don't mind having a 17mm or similar key requirement to drain (old school partial paranoia lol) but need to ensure of the fit as you say as well as the thread because the drain hole was rethreaded and although it's close to that ~spark plug thread spec, I think the steel insert that replaced the rubber plug that was in there all these years, is slightly off that spec now. Very kind of you to research it. Thought I'd post, not only for selfish reasons to find what other guys did but in the end post what I did since it's an old bike and obsolete exhaust and maybe some other guys have similar issues. Still have yet to start it and hear what it will sound like, not only because of the change from a rotted out old 4:1 header to this never used Yosh but because there are new rings, timing chain in the engine, the carbs were cleaned and rebuilt... I am ready for the first start, run for 5 minutes and flush but there is still a wire to connect or some other minor issue causing there to be no green neutral light (it was there but gone after I changed the neutral switch o-ring, and only makes a click sound.. lol Cheers.

UPDATE: GOT IT RUNNING (still no green neutral lite yet but not concerned) Sounds great! Can't wait to finish it up and for spring to show up for the test ride and final tuning... Definitely worth the hassle of figuring out oil changes for that exhaust. I suspect it's going to scream just right after break-in...

 

[martin_montreal]

You just remove the exhaust, that is the trade off running a yosh. Keep your exhaust stuff clean and anti-siezed, doesn't add that much time to the process

We'll see good idea about the anti-seizing. I ordered the valve. If it fits and doesn't seem risky, I'll use it. Thanks. Was trying to avoid that because prior to the new used rebuilt head, some of those bolts were wonky...

 

[Rob S.]

How about an audio/visual treat for everyone? A walk around, a start up, let us see the bike and hear that pipe.

 

[martin_montreal]

How about an audio/visual treat for everyone? A walk around, a start up, let us see the bike and hear that pipe.

I actually started it for the first time and made a 3 minute video. I just posted it here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/F7RLw8ZPE78aQNbx6 Nothing to look at. It'll clean up okay. Let me know if it works. I didn't mention amongst the rebuilt items, rings, timing chain, carbs (kit and the rubber mounts) a rebuilt head I bought from a guy, o-ring on neutral switch, seal at tranny - waiting for a clutch push-rod seal - I don't want it to leak lol. I was going to run it 5 minutes and dump the oil then put a new filter and oil. What a pain to throw out such an expensive commodity but best to do it. So when I get the valve, I'll run it again and flush it. My voice sounds a bit off in parts because I ran that after 2 days in the cold garage with 4 broken ribs and internal bleeding from a skiing accident a week before basically a day after getting out of the hospital... cheers. No more skiing means I will get this done sooner than I'd planned, Last parts run is end of this week.

 

[Rob S.]

Very nice. Keep us updated.

 

[steve murdoch]

Video came through fine. That thing is going to howl.
Always preferred the look of the black cannister muffler like the one you have.

 

[rphillips]

Yep, sounds good, even better than I'd have thought with wide open carbs. Keep us updated.

 

[kochic]

Nice to see another one close!, I don't know how to post pics since the last forum update, I had few taken beside the Lac Superieur, the ride around lac quenouille is not bad too.
Marc

 

[nvr2old]

Finding an actual period correct Yosh pipe for my GS1000S took me in the direction I went with it. I was bummed about having to remove the center stand and to have to pull it off to change the oil and filter, but I got used to it. I also put exhaust studs in the head to replace having to use bolts to put it back together. Works so much better then taking a chance on screwing up the threads in the head. The look, and the sound of that pipe makes it all worth it, if not still a bit of a pain in the butt.

 

[Guest]

Sounds great! I deal with the same challenge on this Yoshi race pipe on my 750. Due to space constraints, I have to remove the exhaust as well - small price to pay for the performance and sound that comes with this setup.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hMekMzpYNhUNv4rg6

 

[martin_montreal]

Sounds great! I deal with the same challenge on this Yoshi race pipe on my 750. Due to space constraints, I have to remove the exhaust as well - small price to pay for the performance and sound that comes with this setup.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hMekMzpYNhUNv4rg6

Beautiful motorcycle! Same exhaust or similar as far as I can tell. While the Fumoto valve would not screw in, i did not give up on efforts to avoid exhaust removal for oil changes yet and if I do figure it out, I'll post. I ordered, received and installed a small (short) aftermarket plug made for a Hayabusa so M14 x 1.25 with an Allen (6 mm key) head. I put the pipes back on, this time after cleaning the threads with brake clean and air, for the 8 bolts in the head and per the advice above, installed them with anti seize for this season. Plug was hard to find... There is a guy in England who makes a similar sized drain plug, in titanium with both Allen key AND hex head bolt but he never responded. I hope to order that if my plan works. Undoing only the rear bolt, installing a ~1/2" spacer there, gives ~1/2" of play. I will look for and try to get an open ended wrench that ratchets for that bolt... I will cut some Allen keys, to make them shorter and see if it comes out without removing the exhaust using a series of specially cut Allen keys. If so, I'll order the Titanium drain plug to ensure I can loosen it with a closed box wrench and then the Allen keys. If so, I'll see if I can create a ratchet tool of sorts for the keys to. I have something that might work, made for screwdriver bits... That said, if we use the drain where the oil filter is located, how much oil comes out? after it empties from there, at filter removal, will we not get the rest of it? I plan to measure that at some point too. Lifting the rear of the bike might get it all no?... I have not given up on fabricating an L- shaped insert for underneath but need to be sure there is little to no risk of it breaking (the pan...++) of course. I'll post the sources and more here later. Thanks. Yeah I'm persistent at times. Justed checked for the titanium UK product.and got better search results including this one which has torx and hex... https://www.kurveygirl.com/products/titanium-drain-bolt-m14x1-25x12mm-double-drive-kgo-3

 

[rphillips]

Just a thought martin, if you're still using bolts to mount the pipe to the head, replacing them with studs made that job much easier for me. Plus 1/2 the chance of twisting off one of those bolts. Luck to what you're looking for.