Cu head gasket

[Nessism]

Are you going to use the rubber cam chain tunnel seal? And based on the size of the stud holes, I presume you have some seals for those too?

 

[Lorenzo]

As I said, I'll go without rings and if it seeps I'll put them on, but I think they won't be necessary.

 

[Lorenzo]

Looks authoritative

 

[Lorenzo]

Now, before I can get the bike to be started, I need to sort the carbies, but before of that, there is something bugging me, I've been though three choke cables since I had the bike (six years) and was wandering if you have some advice on the feasibility on turning the command from cable operated to "link" operated, below tank and coming off the left hand side(?).
Thanks

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Depending on the year and model, the "stay" function of the choke cable when you pull up the knob in the center of the steering head (some models), or push the thumb lever under the left hand control (other models) is built into the top-side cable end connection. You thighten or loosen the holding power of the choke cable with adjustment there. If you remove the cable, you would either have to hold the enriching circuit shaft pulled out, with your left hand, while holding the clutch lever in with your other left hand, while pushing the start button with your right hand, then holding the shaft out while the bike warms up, or fashion some type of device to hold that shaft out as the bike warms up, then push it in as needed. At least, that's how I imagine it. Someone here must have done such a thing in the past. Have you tried using Advanced Search in the archives?

Here's one such thread I've found by using Advance Search, entering the key words Choke Cable Elimination, and changing the search criteria to Title Only (this is very important, and the only way to get meaningful search results)

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...elimination&highlight=choke+cable+elimination

 

[Lorenzo]

The device to hold the shaft, materializes in a 10/12mm spanner wedged between shaft and engine casting
Thanks for the precious link.
I have seen a 2022 retro Thriumph bike with the side cableless plunger, and was thinking if Suzuki had in the past range, such a solution, without being futuristic, as on the Kat.
In a word, it has to look factory but "in tune" with the model epoch; oops, two words but that's OK...

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I was pretty sure all the 2022 Triumphs were fuel injected, but OK.

 

[Lorenzo]

Mmh, you might be rait...
Must have seen it on some "classic" magazine, cause I have it pictured before my eyes...

GS1000G manual refers to a "...if the starter lever is not pulled all the way up" occurrence, whereas the 1100G speaks of "turning the choke knob all the way left...".

They both seem to run on BS34SS.

Worth investigating, even though I never saw an eleven over here.

 

[Lorenzo]

Well, Yesterday the bike had it's maiden flight;
bike runs perfect, no hesitation whatsoever, pulls like a steam train, courtesy of this boots I proudly made,



but, as predicted on post n.5 by Ed, it wept a bit.
Now I will try to retorque the head, maybe increasing the the torque value a little.

 

[Lorenzo]

Satisfying view of the ensemble

 

[eil]

Nice to see a follow-up to this. Learning how to do a new thing is always worth it, one way or another.

 

[Lorenzo]

An update; the gasket themselves might not be leaking and what I thought was a weep, is in actual fact the copper surplus spry
I deliberatelly applied on the mating surfaces.
The oil mist that complimented both the lower part of my trowsers, might be some ooze from the clutch and generator covers, which gasket
I made out of the specific material but somehow managed,maybe, not to tighten enough lacking an impact drive with the JIS bits.
The veil of oil on the side of the fins, might come from the downpipes, again, not serrated enough and matched to the port without the proper
exhaust cement.
I'll let the forum posted.​

P.S. pics of the boots are rubbish, I know.

 

[Dogma]

Well, Yesterday the bike had it's maiden flight;
bike runs perfect, no hesitation whatsoever, pulls like a steam train, courtesy of this boots I proudly made,



but, as predicted on post n.5 by Ed, it wept a bit.
Now I will try to retorque the head, maybe increasing the the torque value a little.

Nice! What filament did you use one that? Did you do any specific homework on chemical compatibility and temperature tolerance? Did you publish your files anywhere?

I just noticed I'm late to the party. I hope not too late...

 

[Lorenzo]

1) Nice! What filament did you use one that? Did you do any specific homework on chemical compatibility and temperature tolerance?
2) Did you publish your files anywhere?

3) I just noticed I'm late to the party. I hope not too late...

1) TPU
2) Nou Sir, I'm faithfull to the GS forum
3) What can I say? You failed to pay attention but, you're not that late

 

[Dogma]

1) TPU
2) Nou Sir, I'm faithfull to the GS forum
3) What can I say? You failed to pay attention but, you're not that late

I thought that looked like TPU. I'll be curious to learn how it holds up. I suppose you can always just make more...

I was thinking about printing molds to make silicone part, especially for the other end of the carbs where things get considerably warmer.

 

[Lorenzo]

Yea, it will have to be watched for at least six months, for vibrations, heat, fuel an general perishment of the material.
If, by the other side, you mean this:

...same as above applies.
The idea of the mold, maybe 3D printed, it's sound, because it readily let's you experiment with different types of rubber.

 

[Dogma]

The idea of the mold, maybe 3D printed, it's sound, because it readily let's you experiment with different types of rubber.[/QUOTE]

Ya know, I've never heard what kind of heat tolerance TPU is supposed to have. I've only done a little printing with it. I'm very curious how those carb boots are going to work out. My gut says they won't be sturdy enough to hold things in place, and are likely to be leaky. I suspect the next iteration will need to include the metal part of an original.

 

[Lorenzo]

The idea of the mold, maybe 3D printed, it's sound, because it readily let's you experiment with different types of rubber.

My gut says they won't be sturdy enough to hold things in place, and are likely to be leaky. I suspect the next iteration will need to include the metal part of an original.[/QUOTE]

You mean this metal part...

 

[Lorenzo]

...for guts sake!

 

[Dogma]

Well. There it is. I don't see why that shouldn't work, at least for a while. I haven't printed enough TPU to know, but I expect support removal to be a nightmare. Did you pause the print and insert the plate where the support would have been?

This project just keeps getting more interesting. Lots of experiments. Usually, we're more focused on fixes we already know will work.