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Replace Gear Sift shaft Oil Seal?

Buffalo Bill

Buffalo Bill

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Yikes, it's leaking drips from my 82 GS1100G.
Anybody ever replaced the oil seal on the gear shift shaft?
Looks like the engine case has to be split open to slip the oil seal on from the inside.
Let me know if you've done it, and how.
 
Haven't attempted it yet, but I'm reading that if you remove the shift lever and can get a drywall screw started into the rubber seal, it should pull out. Clean around the seal and smear little grease on the new one then use a deep socket to evenly tap it in.
 
If it is the same construction as on the GS twins then you cannot remove it from the inside as the aluminium casing is drilled to the diameter of the shifting shaft to form a rudimentary bearing.

I have replaced multiple and can concur it is done as @Burque73 states in his comment above.
 
So the shaft does not have to be removed?
Just take the shift lever off and out of the way, pull the seal out and push the seal into place?
Ok, I'll try it. Thanks
 
Buffalo Bill said:
So the shaft does not have to be removed?
Just take the shift lever off and out of the way, pull the seal out and push the seal into place?
Ok, I'll try it. Thanks
Click to expand...
I've done this on my 850.

**TIP** - put some tape on the splines where the shifter lever mounts to the shaft before you push the new seal over it. Protects the inner rubber on the way by.
 
Screw drywall screws in the middle of the seal but not so you scar the case or the shaft and yank the seal out. Ive done this and ive heard people say you can basically burn the rubber up with a torch then pick the metal ring out with a bent pick.
Clean the shaft really good after old seals out and use a length of appropriate size PC to seat new seal. Oil new seal helps it go in. No need to split cases.
Should you damage the case dont panick. Degrease the area and apply some RTV to the scar and seat the new seal. Its just a seal and is not under pressure so RTV should fix it
 
Last edited:
chuck hahn said:
Screw drywall screws in the middle of the seal but not so you scar the case or the shaft and yank the seal out. Ive done this and ive heard people say you can basically burn the rubber up with a torch then pick the metal ring out with a bent pick.
Clean the shaft really good after old seals out and use a length of appropriate size PC to seat new seal. Oil new seal helps it go in. No need to split cases.
Should you damage the case dont panick. Degrease the area and apply some RTV to the scar and seat the new seal. Its just a seal and is not under pressure so RTV should fix it
Click to expand...
Agree with everything except the burning, do not do that! The temperature will change the temper of the aluminium or even outright melt it.
 
Ive never burnt them. Ive heard of people doing it and apparently not damaging the cases. Now im curious to look and see if there are any seal puller kits out there
 
chuck hahn said:
Ive never burnt them. Ive heard of people doing it and apparently not damaging the cases. Now im curious to look and see if there are any seal puller kits out there
Click to expand...
This will work fine on a steel housing, but in aluminum this method is a big no no.

If you find a kit, would you please share a link here?
 
I think the aluminum will wick heat away well before anything melts. Secondly the rubbers gonna melt way quicker than metals gonna get too hot. There are pullers for after a shaft is out of the way.
Guess a guy could just use a utility blade and cut the rubber away. Ive done drywall screws and it works well. Sometimes need a few screw resets but seals eventually give it up.
 
I've replaced shifter shaft and even crankshaft seals like this. Just be very, very, very, VERY careful with an teensy drywall screw. Once it begins to thread in, give 'er a yank with good pliers.

The crank seal is easier, although with that one it's best to slowly press it in by using an assortment of M8 bolts, a nut, washers, and a socket or hunka pipe. Improvise and adapt...
 
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