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1 and 2 plugs fouled.

  • Thread starter Thread starter seuadr
  • Start date Start date
S

seuadr

Guest
ok. i've got a question. i've done some reading, but i wanna put what i've tested so far out there for people to see cause it might be more obvious if i've missed something.

this is for an 82 gs1100g

the carbs were gone through and synced a couple weeks ago. the petcock does not appear to be leaking. I have the stock airbox which was cleaned and sealed, as well as the boots for both sides of the carbs checked to be pliable before the carbs were synced.

this just started happening yesterday, when i went to drill out/ajust the pilot idle screws.

i've got 1 and 2 plugs fouling with gas. i checked for spark, which seemed fine. i checked the coils both by checking voltage, and as an extra step, swapping 1/4 and 2/3 plug wires, since 3/4 are running strong.. same thing 1/2 are not firing well and getting fouled. i drilled out the plugs for the pilot idle screws, and reset them down to about 2 turns out from light seated. i tested the petcock by seeing if it leaked in on/res and smelled the oil for gas. nothing. at this point the engine ran GREAT this past saturday.. and the carbs are synced. the fouling is still happening after the pilot idle change.. think it could just be the spark plugs aren't getting good enough spark having been fouled? i cleaned'em up and the spark seemed a little weak, but was definitally there. i won't get a chance to put new plugs into it untill thursday at the earliest to see if that clears it up. any other suggestions to check on thursday when i'm out to see it?
 
no one? i didn't make some obvious mistake or totally miss something to test?
 
Check carb 1 and 2 float heights. Also double check that 1 and 2 pilot passages are clear. Have you checked valve clearances lately?
 
Griffin said:
Check carb 1 and 2 float heights. Also double check that 1 and 2 pilot passages are clear. Have you checked valve clearances lately?
Click to expand...
i haven't checked the valve clearances. i will ifthe plugs don't clear it up. at least i've gotten pretty good at taking the carbs and airbox off! :)

is float height something that would change quickly? it was fine saturday..
 
I dunno if this will help at all, but I had fouled plugs as well on 1 and 2, but 3 and 4 were hitting great.

I tore my carbs down, and found my mixture screws were way off. Maybe you got a leak from a faulty o ring, or a couple of old o rings. I would suggest checking there.
 
Outlander said:
I dunno if this will help at all, but I had fouled plugs as well on 1 and 2, but 3 and 4 were hitting great.

I tore my carbs down, and found my mixture screws were way off. Maybe you got a leak from a faulty o ring, or a couple of old o rings. I would suggest checking there.
Click to expand...

hmm. could be the o rings. just synced the carbs though, so i'd hope they aren't way off.. we can toss'em back on the manometer though and check. thanks
 
yep. had a bad o ring. gonna replace the lot, and resync the carbs and go from there.
 
well, replaced all the boots o rings and i still have a leak on number 2, so i guess i'm going to have to buy some new boots. cheapest i saw a set for about 40 dollars, so it'll be a bit before i can see if that helps.

I am now getting both 1 and 2 not warming up. they aren't fouled anymore, but they are taking FOREVER to warm up. i thought it might be poor/no spark, so i swapped 1/4 and 2/3, since 3 and 4 are warming right up and running good.. but no joy, 1 and 2 are still pretty much cold. they do heat after a while, i'm guessing it's something with the carbs. i set the idle and played with that a bit, and bench synced the carbs, and it starts right up first push with no choke or extra throttle, so i'm not sure what it is.. i'm probably going to re-soak and clean the carbs.. mebby my little test run with it where it was running great loosened up some grim that is now caught somewhere important. i'm not sure what else to do.
 
seuadr said:
well, replaced all the boots o rings and i still have a leak on number 2, so i guess i'm going to have to buy some new boots. cheapest i saw a set for about 40 dollars, so it'll be a bit before i can see if that helps.

I am now getting both 1 and 2 not warming up. they aren't fouled anymore, but they are taking FOREVER to warm up. i thought it might be poor/no spark, so i swapped 1/4 and 2/3, since 3 and 4 are warming right up and running good.. but no joy, 1 and 2 are still pretty much cold. they do heat after a while, i'm guessing it's something with the carbs. i set the idle and played with that a bit, and bench synced the carbs, and it starts right up first push with no choke or extra throttle, so i'm not sure what it is.. i'm probably going to re-soak and clean the carbs.. mebby my little test run with it where it was running great loosened up some grim that is now caught somewhere important. i'm not sure what else to do.
Click to expand...

You found a set of 4 boots for $40? May I ask where? The best I could find was trice that.

If you're not sure they're clean, that seems like a reasonable place to start before trying further diagnosis. It's hard to get where you're going if you don't know where you're starting from.
 
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Dogma said:
You found a set of 4 boots for $40? May I ask where? The best I could find was trice that.

If you're not sure they're clean, that seems like a reasonable place to start before trying further diagnosis. It's hard to get where you're going if you don't know where you're starting from.
Click to expand...

http://www.fullthrottlemotorsports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
local suzuki dealer.. but i just realized i misread the fisch and they are 21 EACH ><

i am pretty sure the carbs are clean, we went through them pretty good. but with the coils working fine, and brand new plugs getting deicent spark, i have no idea where else to look.the plugs are no longer getting fouled.. but 1 and 2 take almost 3X as long to get as hot as 3 and 4, which seem to be running like champs.
 
seuadr said:
http://www.fullthrottlemotorsports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp
local suzuki dealer.. but i just realized i misread the fisch and they are 21 EACH ><

i am pretty sure the carbs are clean, we went through them pretty good. but with the coils working fine, and brand new plugs getting deicent spark, i have no idea where else to look.the plugs are no longer getting fouled.. but 1 and 2 take almost 3X as long to get as hot as 3 and 4, which seem to be running like champs.
Click to expand...

OK, I just re-read the whole thread looking for clues. You said "went to drill out/ajust the pilot idle screws". You did this, or found the problem before you did this? If after, then I'm thinking tight valve clearances could definitely monkey up the pilot adjusting process, with confusing and unpredictable results. At the very least, it's a variable that needs to be eliminated, and a maintenance issue that needs checked anyway if it's been 4000 miles since the last check. Nothing to lose but time, gasket money and a zip tie.
 
true, i'm thinking i'll have to do that this weekend. i don't have a digital meter, but i think i can borrow one.
 
Were you installing a Dynojet Stage 3 kit on your VM carbs? That's the only time I've heard of drilling out passages, and I think it was with CV carbs. When installing the Stage 3 in my VM26s, it never called for any drilling other than through the caps over the fuel screws to remove the caps. When setting up carbs, first you MUST check and set valve clearances, then bench-sync the carbs, set ignition timing once you reinstall the carbs, then vacuum-sync the carbs. THEN you can start carb tuning.
 
jknappsax said:
Were you installing a Dynojet Stage 3 kit on your VM carbs? That's the only time I've heard of drilling out passages, and I think it was with CV carbs. When installing the Stage 3 in my VM26s, it never called for any drilling other than through the caps over the fuel screws to remove the caps. When setting up carbs, first you MUST check and set valve clearances, then bench-sync the carbs, set ignition timing once you reinstall the carbs, then vacuum-sync the carbs. THEN you can start carb tuning.
Click to expand...
no no, not new jets, just the caps over the fuel screws. i didn't check valves, because i didn't have the means, nor the gasket.. but i did bench sync and try to vac sync.. i have no idea how to set the ignition timing though.. is there a guide?
 
Float height wrong, carbs leak past the o-rings, too rich a mixture to compensate for a vacuum leak between the cylinder head and the carb adapters, or a combination of the above list.

basics first...
o-rings between head and adapters, compression test, valve clearance.

need something? on your way to Port Huron swing by.
 
A manual, either Clymer or Haynes, or factory Suzuki, goes in the order of items that need to happen. The manual shows the timing mark behind the points plate or Dyna S for below 2500 RPM and an advanced mark for above 2500. IIRC, the timing below 2500 is 19 degrees BTDC, and after 2500 is 37 degrees BTDC. And like Dale says, o-rings, boots, etc. I recall that you have done some of these maintenance items, but the correct sequence is critical to success in carb tuning, as many here have written.
 
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pretty much everything but the timing and valves have been done, the valves will be done this weekend, the timing too, if i can get my hands on a manual. thanks guys.
 
well, i checked the valve clearances today, they are all good. checked the igniter, and per the manual, it seems to be ok. it, actually, runs pretty good now. not sure why.. but i'm not questioning it :P we couldn't find any shorts, any issues in the wiring, cleaned all the connections, and great spark.carbs were so closed bench synced, it started up with no choke in 50 degree weather after sitting for a week. so hey. i guess unless it starts causing a problem again, i'm happy! :)
 
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