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motokid837
Guest
Thats how I got the bike to first start this morning, was once I took off the vacuum and main fuel line, then once it was started I reconnected the lines and it ran...thats what you mean right?
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Thats how I got the bike to first start this morning, was once I took off the vacuum and main fuel line, then once it was started I reconnected the lines and it ran...thats what you mean right?
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Flyboy
Guest
Pull the fuel line off the tap, with the bike switched off an not running.
1. In the ON position, there should be no fuel coming out.
2. In the PRIME position, the fuel should run freely.
3.In the RES position, there should be no fuel coming out.
If this checks out, you may have a ruptured diaphragm, in the fuel tap that is allowing fuel to get to the vacuum side and run into the carbs through the vacuum pipe [the thin one], so even though your tap is working correctly, and no fuel is flowing in the ON position, it is running into the carbs via the vacuum pipe and flooding the whole deal.
It would also account for the bike dying after running a very short while, because if the vacuum diaphragm is ruptured, then there will be no vacuum behind it to open the fuel tap once the bike is running, thus dieing as soon as the fuel is used up.
Hope that makes sense.
1. In the ON position, there should be no fuel coming out.
2. In the PRIME position, the fuel should run freely.
3.In the RES position, there should be no fuel coming out.
If this checks out, you may have a ruptured diaphragm, in the fuel tap that is allowing fuel to get to the vacuum side and run into the carbs through the vacuum pipe [the thin one], so even though your tap is working correctly, and no fuel is flowing in the ON position, it is running into the carbs via the vacuum pipe and flooding the whole deal.
It would also account for the bike dying after running a very short while, because if the vacuum diaphragm is ruptured, then there will be no vacuum behind it to open the fuel tap once the bike is running, thus dieing as soon as the fuel is used up.
Hope that makes sense.
No, like Stan says, is they're fuel leaking even a little drip when in the reserve and on position, and does the fuel flow freely when on prime without those hoses connected ? And what color are those plugs ?
Don't say it can't be a float problem even if Chef did the rebuild. I've had a couple carbs that had float valve issues but intermittently. If Chef reused your original float valves (normal procedure) it's very possible that you may still have a float valve problem. Most rebuilds reuse the valve if there are no obvious problems. Worked when it left him but fails later is pretty common problem on a rebuild. I've watched a valve hold pressure for several minutes and then suddenly open and dump fuel with nothing else changing. Just suddenly lets go.
Keep in mind that it takes two failure points to cause fuel to be dumped into the engine. A bad petcock (or on prime) AND a weak or leaking float valve.
I'm at the point where I will now routinely replace the petcock on a bike with no known history. I hate chasing fuel issues let alone two at a time.
Keep in mind that it takes two failure points to cause fuel to be dumped into the engine. A bad petcock (or on prime) AND a weak or leaking float valve.
I'm at the point where I will now routinely replace the petcock on a bike with no known history. I hate chasing fuel issues let alone two at a time.
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That's why I said it take two failure points. A leaking petcock AND bad float valve to flood an engine that's not running. A sticking float valve can even flood a running engine with a working petcock.
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