1100 arrived today! Yeeeee-haaa!

[Guest]

At least you know what you have now Mark and can plan out your angle of attack on it. Those cracks in that first picture? I was having trouble making that out? Is that the motor housing? I mean, are you going to need another case now or can that be welded?

I had the same probem with my engine. I had it welded and re-bored. Hoomgar, it is the engine case where the starter cog shaft lives. Mine had two cracks but is good as new now. My engine the end came off the crank and it had to be taken out crank end replaced, re-welded and trued.

I don't think checking the runout is the best idea. You should really crack the cases mate.....sorry...I know it's not what you want to hear but I have found the "do it now or double it later" concept applies toooo often...

 

[Mark Harrop]

But I don't want to crack the cases.....

Seriously....I know the right thing to do would be to crack the cases...It's what happens next that I'm afraid of...I'll have to mortgage my house to pay my parts bill....cuz I can see a big bore kit, cams, carbs,blah blah blah...in my future. Happens every time. :twisted:

I'll have to think about it.....go cheap for instant gratification....or play it smart and rebuild....
I've never been good at these decisions, having an impulsive nature

...but, If I did disassemble it...only fix what is broken...and assemble with new gaskets and seals...maybe I could swing it.

 

[Guest]

Hey Mark,

cracking my cases only cost me 10 grand.....lol

 

[Dink]

Do it once do it right!!!!
Otherwise you are only putting a "handgrenade" in your bike.
Dink
BTW replace the gearbox bearings

 

[Guest]

that is wisdom speaking Mark.........

"You have to ask yourself one question???." Do you feel lucky?""

 

[Mark Harrop]

Well......here's what I did.....


I took a piece of copper wire and wrapped it around a bolt. I took the free end and bent it over by the end of the crank....so it was about a millimeter away.
I had my son turn the motor over while I sighted down next to the wire/crankshaft end.



It wobbles........... :roll:



Looks like I'll be crackn' em open. :twisted:


This could get ugly....and wind up in divorce court 8O

 

[Mark Harrop]

Whats the best/most economic way to get about 20 horsepower?

 

[Guest]

what is the refund situation??

was it described as a running motor??

 

[Anonymous]

Whats the best/most economic way to get about 20 horsepower?

Sorry to hear your situation, it sucks completely.

Now, on to the good stuff. Things to do for more power :

1) Pod filters/stage 3 jet kit. Some people like the kits, some hate them and do it themselves from scratch. Your choice. Cost for filters maybe $75USD for K&N's, jet kit maybe $50 on E-bay.

2) Degree the cams. If you can, install a set of 1150 cams or a mild aftermarket grind. Cost for slotted cam sprockets, maybe $25USD on E-bay or have a shop do yours. 1150 cams - no idea, aftermarket cams - several hundred dollars.

3) A good exhaust system. The sidewinder drag pipes (Vance and Hines, Star Racing) make the most power, but are a pain on a street bike that must turn both ways. BTW, there is nothing magic about the sidewinder set-up, they just happen to be the best designed in terms of header lengths/sizes and use of a megaphone after the collector. A custom pipe with the same primary tube lengths and sizes and a megaphone would make the same power in a conventional 4-1 configuration with the collector under the motor. Too bad no one makes one... Cost for V&H street meg about $280USD. Not sure on the drag pipes, about the same I think. The V&H website lists all of their stuff with prices if you are interested.

4) Flatslide carbs. 36mm for a mild engine, 38mm for a wild engine. Cost about $400USD on E-bay. This is an alternative to the pod filters and stage 3 kit above, so it would be either one or the other.

5) 1166cc Wiseco big bore kit. Cost about $550USD, plus machine work. Plus labour if you can't do it yourself (although you sound OK in this regard).

I am in the same boat as you on my 82 1100E. I want about 125rwhp when I am done and I plan to go with a stage 3 kit and pods, degreed stock cams, exhaust and an 1166 kit, along with a small port modified head as shown here http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm. This should get me there easily and be nice and reliable as a street bike. By far the best bang for the buck is the 1166 kit. Biggest power and torque increase of any of the mods for pretty reasonable $$$. Combined with the easy/cheap stuff like the stage 3 kit and degreeing the cams it will give you an awesome ride with few problems.

Check out Rosco15's site (www.rccracing.com) for dyno charts on his 1100 in several states of tune. It is very informative for picking your mods.

Mark

 

[Guest]

are the 3 bolts on the starter clutch notoriously weak?

Yes, they are evil evil evil bolts. I like Biker66's fix of oversizing the bolts to 10mm instead of 8mm. You probably won't have any more issues with new bolts for a long time anyway though. Be sure to get the hardened bolts 12.9 I believe is the number you want.

Thanks for reminding me.....I just went out and got a few of those little goodies. I had forgot about them...and 12.9 is the correct strength. I think they are the ones that hold on Superman's cape.

 

[Mark Harrop]

Sound advice all....

I bought the motor as-is. The guy wouldn't comment on the condition. 600 bucks seemed reasonable, as I have seen junk motors go for more than 500 with lots of stuff missing.
I'm going to sell off a bunch of other junk to help finance the rebuild. I don't feel like I got ripped off because I knew what I was getting into. I was just hoping the motorcycle gods would smile on me and make it a good motor. Sometimes no amount of wishful thinking can make a bad situation better.
10mm bolts definitley!

 

[Guest]

Hey Boys,

I have posted here:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?p=259183#259183

about the sheering of the starter clutch bolts and I am being told not to change them to harder ones?? They say the sheering is a good thing??

Jake and any other draggers ......... am I in error? Set me straight will you. I always thought it was a bad thing.

 

[rosco15]

I've heard of guys having the end of the crank damaged when the bolts shear off. How could that be a good thing. I would think the starter would stop before you would bend a connecting rod. Heck those rods can take 200 HP. I've never had mine shear, but I've also never run with the stock bolts. One of the first things I changed. I guess this is up to you and what your comfortable with.

 

[lecroy]

I have never had a problem with them on the stock bikes. I use ProLock on all of them and have stock advancers.

The old electric start drag bike uses 24V to the starter with grade 8 bolts. I use a locking nut on the back side. This is a 1428cc engine, but is very low compression.

 

[Hoomgar]

Hey Mark. Some food for thought. Maybe look around for yet another motor. One that you can verify will drop in and go before you pay. Then sell the first one you bought. If that would work out it would be quick, less expensive than rebuilding and keep you married :lol:

 

[Guest]

Hey Mark,

any new news??

 

[Mark Harrop]

No...nothing new yet. I'm backed up with other projects. I'll be stripping it down soon to see what else is damaged. I'll see what's reuseable (and if it really did have 5000 miles on it) and what I'll have to replace.

I don't think another motor is an option at this juncture....I'll have to dilute the cost of the rebuild over time.

Great starter bolt thread too....very interesting.....

 

[mcycle-nut]

I think someone needs an 1100 motor shoved up his ass! :evil:

 

[Guest]

It's a good idea to RE & RE the beast. that way when your done it's good for another 30-40,000.

It would have been a drag to put it in ride for a month and have to pull it and do it then. I'ts the end of the season and this way you have a new motor for next season....

good luck Mark, and I look forward to seeing the pics of your machine finished and snortin fire"

 

[Guest]

Sound advice all....

10mm bolts definitley!

Are you still thinking 10mm bolts? the 12.9 8's would be fine for your application with loc-tite. Even the stock 8.8 bolts with loc-tite depending on your slant on this issue.

The 10mm's are extra work and extra cash.