Indeed, it's a 1965 Superhawk that's like new following a bare frame restoration.
It's so nice, I'm scared to take it on the road!
In fact it's on an identical machine that I started my biking career a long time ago...
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1100 Katana restomod with 1230 engine
- Thread starter John Kat
- Start date
It's so nice, I'm scared to take it on the road!
In fact it's on an identical machine that I started my biking career a long time ago...
In my view, the bikes moved to the modern age when the suspensions moved to "cartridge type" forks and shocks.I did the D & E modifications with no "X" braces with noticeable results. With a little fore thought it would be very easy to make side cover stays/mnts. I understand wanting to be able to go back to stock. As mentioned, every up grade to the bike will pronounce the "hinge in middle" effect. Emulators and high quaility rears help immensely in this issue and not having the bracing is a liitle more forgiving on our bodies. (good frame flex!) In Minnesota, as our roads are potholed filled junk, premium suspension is almost a must due my back and wrist issues. Modern Triumph's are good at this. This is a great/timely post for me as my health gets better.
I've used emulators on my GS 1000 S with a 1st gen GSXR 1100 front end but it's still quite short of the performance of today's bikes.
BTW, I have absolutely no "hinge in the middle" feeling on my Kat with the Vstrom DL 1000 fork and modern rear shocks...
Coming back to the "hinge in the middle" issue with some GS 1000/1100's, I can report that a standard GS 1000 Frame with modern suspension and tires has no issue whatsoever.
I went for a long ride yesterday on my GS 1000 with an R6 front end and a GSXR 2nd gen rear end with an Ohlins shock and the bike is a delight in the twisties, utterly stable while very flippable.
Tires are the latest Bridgestone S22 that I really love.
The frame is also put to maximum strain with it's GSXR 1052 engine that delivers incredible power.
Every GS 1000/1100 owner should once in his life test this combination!
Here's a picture:
I went for a long ride yesterday on my GS 1000 with an R6 front end and a GSXR 2nd gen rear end with an Ohlins shock and the bike is a delight in the twisties, utterly stable while very flippable.
Tires are the latest Bridgestone S22 that I really love.
The frame is also put to maximum strain with it's GSXR 1052 engine that delivers incredible power.
Every GS 1000/1100 owner should once in his life test this combination!
Here's a picture:
Attachments
I imagine you have surprised a few riders on "modern" bikes with your "vintage" hardware.
What are the front brakes?
What are the front brakes?
The front brakes are the OEM Yamaha R6 4 pistons, not the level of the Brembo Stylema's of course but not a problem on the road.
Most of the time, I ride with my wife who owns a Triumph Street Triple RS 765.
She's a very capable rider ( I call her "Valentinetto") and she was amazed by the performance of my "old" bike in the twisties.
I did the D & E modifications with no "X" braces with noticeable results. With a little fore thought it would be very easy to make side cover stays/mnts. I understand wanting to be able to go back to stock. As mentioned, every up grade to the bike will pronounce the "hinge in middle" effect. Emulators and high quaility rears help immensely in this issue and not having the bracing is a liitle more forgiving on our bodies. (good frame flex!) In Minnesota, as our roads are potholed filled junk, premium suspension is almost a must due my back and wrist issues. Modern Triumph's are good at this. This is a great/timely post for me as my health gets better.
I remember the KZ900 wobble in high speed corners. Still trying to sort a high speed (120 mph) wobble through the traps on my 1100e dragbike with Bandit forks and swingarm through the traps. A bit of rear brake calms it but maybe a damper will help, or tightening the head bearings.
I owned a KZ 900 when it came out and I remember it would go in a wobble as soon as you tried going fast around corners...
I have no experience of drag racing but I believe one must not hold the handlebar too firmly?
Easy to say behind one's PC!
GSX1100 dreamn
Forum Mentor
Hi John Kat,
1100 head on a 1150 bottom end was done to improve low/mid intake velocity/acceleration (street use).
I run a standard valve 1100 head on my 1260 with a slight intake clean up and dialed in cams, 4into1 exhaust and it is very tractable down low even when I had the GSXR CV 38's.
Cheers Andrew.
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I owned the original Kawasaki 903cc, 1973's "Z1" (it wasn't called a "KZ900" until 1976). And it didn't need any corners to experience the notorious high speed wobble.
Thanks Andrew,
Looks like a good reason to do so but in my case, I believe the PO just assembled the parts available to get the bike to run...
He forgot BTW to use the specific variable advance CDI for the 1135 bottom end!
I believe I just hit another issue today...
As I was going to install the cylinder block, I realized that the cylinder studs might be of a different length between an 1100 and a 1150 head?
There goes another order to APEracing for heavy duty studs!
Given the difficulty of fitting the pistons in the cylinders, I decided to fit the pistons in the block first and thereafter slide the piston pins in place when the block is lowered on the bottom case.
I've never tried this method?
Will it work?
As I was going to install the cylinder block, I realized that the cylinder studs might be of a different length between an 1100 and a 1150 head?
There goes another order to APEracing for heavy duty studs!
Given the difficulty of fitting the pistons in the cylinders, I decided to fit the pistons in the block first and thereafter slide the piston pins in place when the block is lowered on the bottom case.
I've never tried this method?
Will it work?
