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1150 3.5" wheel in an 1100 swingarm

  • Thread starter Thread starter jwhelan65
  • Start date Start date
i respectfully disagree with blower, and with salty monk on the adding spacers to the left side, at least on my es and with my 1150 3.5 wheel. i found i had to shift the 3.5 to the LEFT by a couple (3? 4? I don't remember)mms., shaving the left spacer and adding to the right, but no amount of photographic evidence seems to persuade. neither chain alignment nor caliper/rotor alignment were an issue for ME, ONCE i got the rim centered in the swingarm. I have no idea if the caliper/caliper hanger/spacer is the original from the es or from the 1150, as i inherited this (incorrectly installed, at least from the perspective of having the rim centered in the swingarm) mod. this is a(n?) hilariously long thread for what seems like should be an easy mod! carry on.

greg
 
i respectfully disagree with blower, and with salty monk on the adding spacers to the left side, at least on my es and with my 1150 3.5 wheel. i found i had to shift the 3.5 to the LEFT by a couple (3? 4? I don't remember)mms., shaving the left spacer and adding to the right, but no amount of photographic evidence seems to persuade. neither chain alignment nor caliper/rotor alignment were an issue for ME, ONCE i got the rim centered in the swingarm. I have no idea if the caliper/caliper hanger/spacer is the original from the es or from the 1150, as i inherited this (incorrectly installed, at least from the perspective of having the rim centered in the swingarm) mod. this is a(n?) hilariously long thread for what seems like should be an easy mod! carry on.

greg

if you use factory drive line parts then the drive line does not/CAN NOT change.
plus i add nothing to the left side...only to the right side to center the rotor in the caliper.
 
i respectfully disagree with blower, and with salty monk on the adding spacers to the left side, at least on my es and with my 1150 3.5 wheel. i found i had to shift the 3.5 to the LEFT by a couple (3? 4? I don't remember)mms., shaving the left spacer and adding to the right, but no amount of photographic evidence seems to persuade. neither chain alignment nor caliper/rotor alignment were an issue for ME, ONCE i got the rim centered in the swingarm. I have no idea if the caliper/caliper hanger/spacer is the original from the es or from the 1150, as i inherited this (incorrectly installed, at least from the perspective of having the rim centered in the swingarm) mod. this is a(n?) hilariously long thread for what seems like should be an easy mod! carry on.

greg

Greg, that's EXACTLY what I had to do to get my 1150 wheel centered in my GS 1000/1100 swingarm.
The 1150 wheel was originally so badly offset to the right with the GS 1100 Kat spacers that the tire would hit the mudgard when going over bumps.
I still fail to understand why S.M.'s wheel is different?
 
this is because people are trying to center a wheel in a bike that never had the wheel centered to start with....
suzuki did this....all i have done was installed a wider wheel by using the same cush and spacers which KEEP THE DRIVE LINE STRAIGHT.
i wasn't trying to reinvented the "wheel"...
just giving people a wider tire option.
no chain/sprocket wear...no ill handling ect......
and yes a 150/70/17 is the perfect sized tire for this wheel.
ugh................................
 
i respectfully disagree with blower, and with salty monk on the adding spacers to the left side, at least on my es and with my 1150 3.5 wheel. i found i had to shift the 3.5 to the LEFT by a couple (3? 4? I don't remember)mms., shaving the left spacer and adding to the right, but no amount of photographic evidence seems to persuade. neither chain alignment nor caliper/rotor alignment were an issue for ME, ONCE i got the rim centered in the swingarm. I have no idea if the caliper/caliper hanger/spacer is the original from the es or from the 1150, as i inherited this (incorrectly installed, at least from the perspective of having the rim centered in the swingarm) mod. this is a(n?) hilariously long thread for what seems like should be an easy mod! carry on.

greg

You might be disagreeing but your ARE still in agreement that centering the rear wheel centers the chain and zero counter sprocket offset is required.
 
Greg, that's EXACTLY what I had to do to get my 1150 wheel centered in my GS 1000/1100 swingarm.
The 1150 wheel was originally so badly offset to the right with the GS 1100 Kat spacers that the tire would hit the mudgard when going over bumps.
I still fail to understand why S.M.'s wheel is different?

Now I'm confused as Greg, said when he centered the wheel he centered the chain meaning no countershaft offset while you have claimed you needed a 13mm countershaft offset presumably with a centered wheel? :confused::confused::confused:
 
this is because people are trying to center a wheel in a bike that never had the wheel centered to start with....
suzuki did this....all i have done was installed a wider wheel by using the same cush and spacers which KEEP THE DRIVE LINE STRAIGHT.
i wasn't trying to reinvented the "wheel"...
just giving people a wider tire option.
no chain/sprocket wear...no ill handling ect......
and yes a 150/70/17 is the perfect sized tire for this wheel.
ugh................................

Sounds like you are content to have the wheel be 2-3mm out in order to not modify the chain line. And I agree that it is probably not noticeable unless you make an attempt to measure it, but normal riding you would never know.

Dan is saying the wheel needs to go right by about 2-3 mm but then the chain would be out by that amount.
 
630 chain has room with this conversion.
suzuki used 150/70/17's on 750 katana's...yes they had 3.5x17 rim...it is the perfect size tire for the 3.5 conversion.
i understand salty's point on this..you add a spacer/shim between the cush spacer and bearing to push the wheel to the right...this WILL NOT affect the drive line and you have more than enough engagement left on the rubbers.
did i mention that the 1150 wheel though wider has a narrower hub than the 1100 rim.
if there was ever a waste of band width...i think we have found the source.:clap:
 
630 chain has room with this conversion.
suzuki used 150/70/17's on 750 katana's...yes they had 3.5x17 rim...it is the perfect size tire for the 3.5 conversion.
i understand salty's point on this..you add a spacer/shim between the cush spacer and bearing to push the wheel to the right...this WILL NOT affect the drive line and you have more than enough engagement left on the rubbers.
did i mention that the 1150 wheel though wider has a narrower hub than the 1100 rim.
if there was ever a waste of band width...i think we have found the source.:clap:

Had not caught that from reading his posts. It probably still counts as offset although it is a relatively easy way of obtaining it.
 
630 chain has room with this conversion.
suzuki used 150/70/17's on 750 katana's...yes they had 3.5x17 rim...it is the perfect size tire for the 3.5 conversion.
i understand salty's point on this..you add a spacer/shim between the cush spacer and bearing to push the wheel to the right...this WILL NOT affect the drive line and you have more than enough engagement left on the rubbers.
did i mention that the 1150 wheel though wider has a narrower hub than the 1100 rim.
if there was ever a waste of band width...i think we have found the source.:clap:

Terry you are correct on the hub, the 1150 measures the same as the 700. This made my conversion a breeze after mounting the stock 700 rotors to the 1150 wheels..
 
Sounds like you are content to have the wheel be 2-3mm out in order to not modify the chain line. And I agree that it is probably not noticeable unless you make an attempt to measure it, but normal riding you would never know.

Dan is saying the wheel needs to go right by about 2-3 mm but then the chain would be out by that amount.

Now I understand why we have a left, a center and a right wing in politics:rolleyes:
We have the SM camp that moves the wheel to right, the Blowerbike camp that keeps it as is and the Greg/John camp that moves the wheel to the left:cool:
I will just add this: when the wheel is off center by only 4 mm this means that you will measure a gap on one side of say 0 mm and 8 mm on the other side.
No need to pull out your micrometer to see this;)
 
Now I understand why we have a left, a center and a right wing in politics:rolleyes:
We have the SM camp that moves the wheel to right, the Blowerbike camp that keeps it as is and the Greg/John camp that moves the wheel to the left:cool:
I will just add this: when the wheel is off center by only 4 mm this means that you will measure a gap on one side of say 0 mm and 8 mm on the other side.
No need to pull out your micrometer to see this;)

It does seem as if there is something else at play. I know the measurements are not that easy. When I was going around with Katman we could never resolve his measurements between 5.5" wheel in a gs1100 swingarm and a Bandit swingarm. In the end I just installed based on his recommendations and it all lined up even if all his measurements did not match :o

And as you say, when the wheel is not centered it is pretty obvious.
 
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