M
mike J
Guest
What should a stock (or close to stock) 1150 rev to in say 3rd gear on a flat level road? TIA, Mike
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D
Dink
Guest
I assume you mean speed at redline , mine is over 180 @ redline in third.
BTW they will peg the tacho in any gear; even top, given enough roadway.
Dink
BTW they will peg the tacho in any gear; even top, given enough roadway.
Dink
K
kz
Guest
Mine is about 160 km/h at redline in third gear.
Gear ratio is stock.
The speedo is digital, and shows less (real speed?) than what the stock speedo did.
Gear ratio is stock.
The speedo is digital, and shows less (real speed?) than what the stock speedo did.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Like earl said, in 3rd gear it should just keep going till engine trouble is almost a sure thing. As far as speed in 3rd, I don't know, but in 5th it's apprx 15 mph, per 1000 rpm. 9000 rpm = apprx 135 mph,
M
mike J
Guest
The redline on the tach starts at 9K. That's about where my bike runs out of breath. I bought this bike not running and am trying to get it running correctly. I just don't have anything to compare it to (another 1150). So are you guys saying that it should rev to 12K if I pushed it that hard? MIKE J
Assuming the ignition timing is spot on, the valve adjustment is correct, valve timing is spot on, carbs are balanced and adjusted correctly for mixtures, the coils are up to specs, you have no intake boot leaks, the airfilter is not dirty, no one has changed the sprocket gearing and your compression is within specs, then yes, it will run the tach right off the scale in 3rd gear.
Earl
Earl
mike J said:
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Dink
Guest
earlfor said:Assuming the ignition timing is spot on, the valve adjustment is correct, valve timing is spot on, carbs are balanced and adjusted correctly for mixtures, the coils are up to specs, you have no intake boot leaks, the airfilter is not dirty, no one has changed the sprocket gearing and your compression is within specs, then yes, it will run the tach right off the scale in 3rd gear.
Earl
mike J said:
Yup
Dink
M
mike J
Guest
Earl, None of the above has been checked. As you are probably aware I have been fighting a carb problem (Dynojet Kit). I have it much closer now and I'm getting ready to start looking at the detail items you mentioned. A question or two, what do you set the intake and exhaust valves to (clearance)? When setting the valves do you put a feeler under each tappet on the rocker arm and set them that way or do you set each tappet seperate? What should compression be on a warm motor? I use a Snap-On compression gauge and if you ever been through the compression gauge musical chairs then you know what I'm talking about. Also I remember you talking about the coils. I want to check them too. This bike had some aftermarket coils wire tied to the frame when I got. I bought some stock coils off E-bay because they fit the space correctly. Do you check the Ohm resistance through the plug wires and or the wire terminals? Also how do you determine the ignition timing is spot on? Do you need to check the timing marks with a dial indicator? Thanks for the help, Mike J
K
kz
Guest
earlfor said:Assuming the ignition timing is spot on, the valve adjustment is correct, valve timing is spot on, carbs are balanced and adjusted correctly for mixtures, the coils are up to specs, you have no intake boot leaks, the airfilter is not dirty, no one has changed the sprocket gearing and your compression is within specs, then yes, it will run the tach right off the scale in 3rd gear.
Earl
Correct, even if not all of the above mentioned things are 100% OK.
A
Anonymous
Guest
They should be done as a pair, to avoid twisting the rocker on the shaft and gettting a false reading. No idea on your 1150, but clearances (cold) on my 82 1100 are 0.07 - 0.12 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in) for both intake and exhaust. Set them to the loose side of that range, of course.
Mark
K
kz
Guest
mike J said:
11 - 15 kg/cm2,
lower limit 9 kg/cm2
max difference between cylinders 2 kg/cm2
Test at full throttle and warm engine.
K
kz
Guest
mike J said:
You can test both:
Primary = coils 12 V side = 2 -5 Ohm
Secondary side = coils spark plug side = between the two spark plugconnectors = 30 - 40 kOhm
K
kz
Guest
mark m said:
1150 valve clearance spec.
0,08 - 0,13 mm, cold, both intake and exhaust. (not that big difference to the 1100 :wink: )
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mike J
Guest
Thanks guys, so what about ignition timing. The stock backing plate is fixed. Do you slot the holes so you can adjust it? Also Earl you mentioned intake leaks, are the GS manifold known to leak? I assume they would need replacing if they leak? again thanks for all the input. Mike J
L
lhanscom
Guest
The intakes can leak, though I think the 1150 is better then most as it doesn't use the intake boots that screw on. On the 1150 you can also use radiator hose to replace the bad rubber I believe. As for timing you can slot the holes, or you can get another ignition, like the Dyna S.
Yeah, I just found my intake boots to have lots of cracks on the mating surfaces. Make sure to take them completely off and squeeze them to see if they are cracked.
Luke, do you use radiator hose for your intake boots? I might look into doing this, but am concerned of how the carbs are supported- with my pod filters, it seems the boots are the only thing holding the carb body.
Luke, do you use radiator hose for your intake boots? I might look into doing this, but am concerned of how the carbs are supported- with my pod filters, it seems the boots are the only thing holding the carb body.
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lhanscom
Guest
I have stock boots, and they're in good shape, but I've heard the radiator hose thing is something they do on drag bikes. You're right that the only support for the carbs is the boots, unless you make a hanger, this can be as simple as a zip tie to the frame. Probably not a bad idea regardless of what boots you use.