1166 dyno info

[rosco15]

Mine was an 1166 flat top 10.25-1 Wiseco piston kit, 36 flatslides, stock head, stock valves, no porting. Cams were stock, but were degreed in. Bike had a star racing megaphone style exhaust, and msd ignition. 128 hp - torque was 87.4.

The combination before that was with stock pistons. Everything else was the same. Made 113.1 HP and torque was 75.3.

I should also say the bike had straight cut 750 primary gears and it was geared for the strip. The runs were on 2 different dyno's.

 

[blowerbike]

Mine was an 1166 flat top 10.25-1 Wiseco piston kit, 36 flatslides, stock head, stock valves, no porting. Cams were stock, but were degreed in. Bike had a star racing megaphone style exhaust, and msd ignition. 128 hp - torque was 87.4.

The combination before that was with stock pistons. Everything else was the same. Made 113.1 HP and torque was 75.3.

I should also say the bike had straight cut 750 primary gears and it was geared for the strip. The runs were on 2 different dyno's.

the straight cut primaries will free up a little bit as will the MSD.
did you have a valve job and springs atleast?
lobe centers in the mid 100 range?
good HP numbers either way!

 

[Guest]

Hmmm, I need to get mine Dyno'd.

 

[rosco15]

It had good springs in it. I don't recall where I had the lobe centers, but I remember degreeing them. Dont think I did a valve job to it. I still have that head sitting on the shelf.

 

[Roger P.]

Pardon the newb questions, but at what horsepower range do you need to consider bottom end work and a lockup clutch? These numbers sound quite intriguing for such a "small" engine kit, but having to shell out for rods or tranny work would be a deal breaker for me. I believe the Honda Blackbird was dynoed at around 135-140 rear wheel horsepower, so the thought of my 1100 being able to make this kind of power relatively easily is eye-opening. I take it a header is a necessity? Winter wouldn't be as long with something like this to keep busy with!

 

[rapidray]

We use a lock up on this 1166 but it has helical gears instead of straight cuts & that takes away a little power. You can build a VERY streetable 1166, or a 1229 if you use an 1150 cylinder , & make close to or over 150 at the rear wheel when done correctly. The stock 492 rods will run WELL into the 8s in a dragbike & some of the Kawi funnybike guys still swear by the 493 Katana rods. I use the 493 rods in all of my crank builds but I build overkill & run my stuff easy. If I were building you a GOOD motor for the street, I would recommend you go 1229 cc, straight cut gears, 493 rods, a modified clutch hub, head work, .370 or so cams, & 38 RS Mikunis. These GS 1100/1150 motors are REALLY tough when put together correctly with good parts & make VERY durable, powerful, street motors. When done RIGHT, they are difficult to break! Ray.

 

[Guest]

Pardon the newb questions, but at what horsepower range do you need to consider bottom end work and a lockup clutch? These numbers sound quite intriguing for such a "small" engine kit, but having to shell out for rods or tranny work would be a deal breaker for me. I believe the Honda Blackbird was dynoed at around 135-140 rear wheel horsepower, so the thought of my 1100 being able to make this kind of power relatively easily is eye-opening. I take it a header is a necessity? Winter wouldn't be as long with something like this to keep busy with!

to answer your question,

those upgrades alone won't hurt your engine. You don't need to sink anymore money into it. You don't need a lock-up and don't know why you would want one for the street.

 

[headsbikesmopars]

We use a lock up on this 1166 but it has helical gears instead of straight cuts & that takes away a little power. You can build a VERY streetable 1166, or a 1229 if you use an 1150 cylinder , & make close to or over 150 at the rear wheel when done correctly. The stock 492 rods will run WELL into the 8s in a dragbike & some of the Kawi funnybike guys still swear by the 493 Katana rods. I use the 493 rods in all of my crank builds but I build overkill & run my stuff easy. If I were building you a GOOD motor for the street, I would recommend you go 1229 cc, straight cut gears, 493 rods, a modified clutch hub, head work, .370 or so cams, & 38 RS Mikunis. These GS 1100/1150 motors are REALLY tough when put together correctly with good parts & make VERY durable, powerful, street motors. When done RIGHT, they are difficult to break! Ray.

What he said...

Terry

 

[rapidray]

to answer your question,

You don't need a lock-up and don't know why you would want one for the street.

That's because you never had one with a LOT of power! Lock ups work FLAWLESSLY on the street with NO drawbacks! When you get to the 150 & over range they are REALLY nice to have as you can keep mushy, stock, easy to pull springs & still not have slippage as the RPM goes up. Anyone tells you that you can't pull the lever in at high RPM is someone that doesn't know what they are talking about. Ray.

 

[Guest]

. Ray.

Raymond, your not worth it......

 

[blowerbike]

--------------------------------------------

 

[67fire]

Is this a good time to interrupt and ask some questions?

I have a '79 GS1000 engine that I did a little work on:
(going on my fading memory...)
Weisco 73 or 73.5mm pistons (worked out to 1148?)
Andrews Products (S3?) cams .394/.394
S & W Race Springs (forgot the numbers) they were intended for the Andrews
S4 cams .424/.424 (still have them)
'81 GS 850 Cylinder head (bought it for the larger intake ports)
Manley custom made SS 38mm Intakes and 30mm exhaust valves
(took them 4 tries to get them right!) light porting by me.
29 mm Mikuni Smooth-bores
Yoshi head pipes into 3" single into 2.25" Glass-pack muffler (fairly quiet)
Andrews Products Hi-output coils
Solid copper core wires
NGK B7ES plugs @ .028 gap
Barnett racing clutch packs

It seemed to run better with the 34CV Carbs (?)

Any pointers as to what I "should have done?" (still can do?)
Street driven, never raced. Picture (click to enlarge):



Any guesses on HP?
Thanks for your help,

Eric

I am also thinking about getting my '79 GS1000S back on the road and would like to know which
of these parts I could use on that build or should I start from scratch?

 

[rapidray]

Raymond, your not worth it......

Who is "Raymond"? Ray.

 

[rapidray]

Is this a good time to interrupt and ask some questions?

I have a '79 GS1000 engine that I did a little work on:
(going on my fading memory...)
Weisco 73 or 73.5mm pistons (worked out to 1148?)
Andrews Products (S3?) cams .394/.394
S & W Race Springs (forgot the numbers) they were intended for the Andrews
S4 cams .424/.424 (still have them)
'81 GS 850 Cylinder head (bought it for the larger intake ports)
Manley custom made SS 38mm Intakes and 30mm exhaust valves
(took them 4 tries to get them right!) light porting by me.
29 mm Mikuni Smooth-bores
Yoshi head pipes into 3" single into 2.25" Glass-pack muffler (fairly quiet)
Andrews Products Hi-output coils
Solid copper core wires
NGK B7ES plugs @ .028 gap
Barnett racing clutch packs

It seemed to run better with the 34CV Carbs (?)

Any pointers as to what I "should have done?" (still can do?)
Street driven, never raced. Picture (click to enlarge):



Any guesses on HP?
Thanks for your help,

Eric

I am also thinking about getting my '79 GS1000S back on the road and would like to know which
of these parts I could use on that build or should I start from scratch?

What numbers did you degree the cams to? The 29 smoothbores, if jetted CORRECTLY, will make more power than the CVs due to more airflow. I also think the 7s are a hotter plug than that motor will like & would stick some 8s in it to start with. How much timing do you have in it? I would start at 34 degrees & go up from there if you can get GOOD gas. You should see somewhere around 120 at the rear wheel if it is all optimized & tuned correctly. Ray.

 

[TeamDar]

That is indeed a strange combination of parts. First of all 73mm will get you 1085cc and 73.5mm will get you 1100cc. A stock GS1000 head has 38mm intake and 32mm exhaust valves. A stock GS850 head has 36mm intake and 30mm exhaust valves. While you may have opened up the intake seat on the GS850 head to 38mm you have strangled the exhaust down 2mm from what a GS1000 had to begin with. You probably did raise compression since the GS850 head has a smaller combustion chamber. The 29mm smoothbores work great with the early style GS1000 head with only mild porting. The 1980 or newer heads with the larger intake ports are designed for 32mm (GS850) or 34mm (GS1000) CV carburetors. Putting 29mm smoothbores on the big port head is kind of silly. Throw a 1980 or newer 8-valve GS1000/1100 head on there with the stock valves and some 33mm smoothbores or 34mm-36mm flat slides and it will haul ass. Just my opinion. Dar

 

[blowerbike]

FYI...
34mm CV's moves more air than a 29mm mechanical carbs.

 

[67fire]

The 29's (if that is what they are? 33's ?) came NIB with the bike that I bought for a spare engine. I bought the '81 850 head to go with the 850 sleeves that I added to the initial 750 that it started life as back in '81. I traded the stock 26? carbs at a cycle salvage shop in MD. for the 34CV's from a 1000(?) as ,at the time, Suzuki was using the 32CV's on the 850. It made sense to me to go to the 34's. That engine, also ran the .394/.394 cams.
The '79GS1000S that I bought for the engine, had been raced at Sears Point by the PO and he had paid some famous guy (name escapes me) to build him the new engine. All that I did to the (long time in storage) long-block engine, was to take it apart and clean everything. Checked the ring gaps, honed, etc. Also opened up the valve reliefs .020 more (to be safer)
The cylinder head had the S & W springs (new) that I installed with the custom valves that were made for the 850 head (as I said prior, "fading memory") the valves were made to be 2mm larger (intake and exhaust) than the stock 1000 valves in the BETTER flowing head.
It also came with the NIB .424/.424 cams. As I thought that they might be a bit too much for a street bike, I used the .394/.394 cams that were in the previous 850 chain-drive bike. I still have the original 1000 head that was NOT improved upon for the GS1000S except for the new springs that were never ran after the re-build.
So, it is NOT my imagination that the 34CV carbs felt better with the larger valve ported heads? I will put them back on the custom head.
They were 73mm pistons, so that makes it a 1085? (The PO told me 1148)
So, I guess that I will bore the other '79 1000 into the larger bore weisco kit and find some 36CV's for it along with some new cams. I also will be looking for a newer cylinder head with the larger ports. Thanks!
Any cam recommendations for the GS1000S?

Eric

 

[67fire]

Also bare in mind that when I did these MODS, there were no computers and information was hard to find. I only replaced the 34CV's with the NIB 29's because that is what the PO was told to use by his engine builder so, I gave them a try. Yes, 29 IS SMALLER than 34. I NEVER would have thought that, without your "help."
When I built the 850 chain-drive, Suzuki was using the 32CV's and I was using the 34's! I am sooo surprised that it worked without your "help."

Now, if anyone wants to help with the camshaft choices on the new engine, I am all ears.
I have been reading of "Web" Cams being used on this site, are they still available? Any other manufacturers of cams for these bikes?

Eric

 

[posplayr]

http://www.webcamshafts.com/index_blank.html?pages/vehicle_search.html

Looks like webcams still produce 0.365, 0.395 and 0.418" lift for the GS1000 street

80GS1000 has a built GS1000 and I think he runs 0.395 that will take a stock 1150

 

[67fire]

Thanks for the link POS!
So, it looks like I could use the .424/.424 cams in the 1100 for the GS1000S with the under bucket shims and springs as they are basically the same profiles as the old Andrews cams.
More questions, can I mill the head .020 and bump the compression up closer to 10.50:1? and what is the largest size valves that can be put into another large port head?

Thanks in advance,

Eric