1166 with g3cam,120 main,finally stopped stuttering?

[81gs7501166]

Went richer on the main,around .118 on reamer,runs better on top,guess all that float
adjusting leaned it a bit.
Stutter is coming back though with the richer main.
Changing the clip one leaner, 3rd from top.
I've. Gotta be getting Close?
Thanks

 

[posplayr]

Went richer on the main,around .118 on reamer,runs better on top,guess all that float
adjusting leaned it a bit.
Stutter is coming back though with the richer main.
Changing the clip one leaner, 3rd from top.
I've. Gotta be getting Close?
Thanks

Once you change the mains, everything else will have to change with it.

I would settle on your final main jet (not a reamed one) and then finalize the tuning. Else you will change the mains again and have to go through it all again.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

 

[81gs7501166]

I have a set of unaltered 115s that I'm using for reference.
Yesterday's main is just a Hair larger than those 115s.
Going a little richer again today on main before I do the clip again.
I've ordered clip shim washers for final tuning.
Roll ons were better with clip richer but stutter off idle is worse.
After I'm done with main I'll do clip again then address stutter off idle.
Thanks.

 

[81gs7501166]

Mains bout 120 now,clip 3rd from botton,top end good,wot from 3k, then back to 3/4 throttle
No longer picks up TQ ,main must be close.
Roll ons were better in 2nd from bottom, I'm going back to that.
Stutter off idle will come back, can I use the air screws to eliminate it?
Or do I need different Pilots? I've went to 47..5s from 40s.
As always thanks from east TN.

 

[81gs7501166]

Jet # doesn't correspond with caliper measurment!!!!

Jet # doesn't correspond with caliper measurment!!!!

Thought I was close to right on main,so it's time to use unaltered jets.
Put the 115s in. They are right in between my last two reamed sets.
They run Great! I installed the 45 pilots also, the off idle stutter is Gone!
Air screws on 2.5 out. Clip 2nd from bottom. Roll ons from 3k Great!
It was almost dark when last test ride, so it was a short 5mile ride,more
Testing later today.
I decided to go from the 47.5s back to the 45s after I played with the air screws,
Less stutter off idle with 47.5s with air screws on 1.25 out,so I reread the pilot tuning section
And determined they were too large.
And it's hard to measure a reamed jet, the ones I thought to be 118ish were smaller than the unaltered 115s.
I'll probably order some 117s and 120s for future testing.
I've had these things off so many times now it's time to RIDE!
Thanks for all Help!
Next project a Damper?

 

[81gs7501166]

5k to 9.5k unbelievable!.!?!?

5k to 9.5k unbelievable!.!?!?

I can't explain what Happened?
The 115s Really seem to WAKE this thing up above 5k!
It accelerates so hard now from 5k up its SCARRY to this old Man!
Everything is Perfect!
Just a SLIGHT something when transition from idle to roll On!
I also removed the restriction in my baffle .
Basically removed a washer plugging a hole in the center , hole went from
3/4 in to 1.5 in.
It's [ jerk u r arms clean off now.)
I'll leave it alone until late the 117.5s come in then test one more Time!
The off idle is liveable ?
Thanks from a happy man.

 

[Guest]

I have enjoyed following your experience with jetting, dont forget to update when you can.
I will be heading down the same part I think and it seems daunting!
I have RS36 carbs.

 

[81gs7501166]

Mistakes I've made.
Don't ream u r own jets to save a few Bucks!
Get the main right first,after all other mods are done,( pipe,pods,adjust valves]
Follow the tuning guide .
Have clip shims available,pilots,and mains.
Remember what I've learned bout float height!
And maby you'll not have them off 20+ times.
Oh and one more thing,never give up!
Thanks

 

[posplayr]

Mistakes I've made.
Don't ream u r own jets to save a few Bucks!
Get the main right first,after all other mods are done,( pipe,pods,adjust valves]
Follow the tuning guide .
Have clip shims available,pilots,and mains.
Remember what I've learned bout float height!
And maby you'll not have them off 20+ times.
Oh and one more thing,never give up!
Thanks

Now go have it dyno tested to see how you did on AFR

 

[Guest]

I'd get a dynojet kit.

 

[81gs7501166]

Shimmed clip today, 2nd from bottom with shim to lean it.
Runs great,not much different than it was, was shimiming in hopes of the off idle
cruise stutter would get better,not much of any,air screws turned in another half turn,bout 1-3/4 out now,
Set idle down to bout 1300rpm, seems to be a little better but theirs just a little something
In transition from idle to throttle movement when cruising. MostLy bout 3-4k
It's liveable,but I would like to get it perfect.
Any ideas?

 

[posplayr]

I'd get a dynojet kit.

Next you will say get an O2 sensor!

 

[81gs7501166]

I started out with a dynojet kit bout 10 years ago, after setting in basement 3-4 years when I got it back out, I decided to tune it for riding instead of 1/4 mile Et.

 

[Guest]

It's liveable,but I would like to get it perfect.
Any ideas?

I would say you are now casting about randomly trying to get rid of that stutter. That is seldom going to work out well in the end and is a departure from how you got everything sorted except for the stutter. When I work on carbs I start at the bottom on the idle circuit and work up. Once you set your mixture screws you generally don't touch them again. Same with your fuel level and the main jet.

I know this will sound like starting over and it is to a certain extent, but I would set your floats back to stock height, set the mixture screws properly, keep the needle where you are and pick the main by plug chops and how it runs. Then tweak the needle without touching anything else. Get it as close as possible (sounds like that will be between the #2 and #3 positions), using a shim if necessary. I assume that will leave you with a small stutter off idle. I would attack that by adjusting the mixture screws 1/4 turn either way from their base setting to see what happens. If you can't get it with the mixture screws return them to the baseline setting and use small fuel height adjustments to see if you can get rid of it. Don't go crazy with the fuel height, just a small tweak or two. Once you have settled on that go back and check your mains with a plug chop to be sure you haven't tweaked that too much. If it still isn't there then I would have one last go at the mixture screws (1/4 turns again) and see if it improves. After that I would say you are stuck with what you have unless you want to start changing needles out for different tapers or messing with air jets and the like, which is going off into the wilderness on your own.

Is there a dyno available anywhere close to you? Spending the money for a couple of runs with an A/F sensor or installing an oxygen sensor kit might be more productive at this point unless you put no value on your time and want to keep tinkering in a random fashion.


Mark

 

[81gs7501166]

I have 117.5s on way,I'll try them for top end to c of it gets better or worse,after deciding which main,I'll
Take u r advise and raise fuel level a bit and c what happens. It ant worth my time or money to dyno, it ant that important,
I've never seen a heavy modded bike that ran Factory smooth, that's the price u pay for more Power!
Thanks to all who helped me through all this carb work.
Now let's talk plug chops,I've never done this,and heaven knows with this modern fuel u can't tell much
By just looking at the plug.
Is their a stickey on plug chops, do I need to start out with a new one,I have a mini plug cleaner with
Grit inside that u hook an air hose to and blast,when they come out they look clean as far as u can c Inside?
When I first started this work,they were a little blackish,back when it would stutter on top 7k pluses, now they are a light Tanisha color,with the timing mark right in the middle of the ground Electrode!
59 and still learning,u all taught me bout fuel level now it's time for plug chop class.
Ps,yesterday after a 15mile ride I opened the air screw back out half turn time bout 2-1/4 out,it wasn't idleing
Smooth,and it was kinda poping and cracking slightly when decelerating.
Ps2, the steel angle that holds all 4 carbs together is kinda grungy looking, anyone ever make their
Own out of aluminum? My 27 year old son has cnc training, and access to machine at his work,
I'd like to roll my own, just for looks,and they would be lighter also [ less weight more power]LOL.

 

[81gs7501166]

Got a pretty good complement yesterday,from son 27,[ rode since he was 8),once got a ticket for a mile long wheeles
Going through the tunnel that devides TN and KY on hwy25, rode the gs, he had rode bout a month ago, said dad that ant the same bike,didn't know we had that kind of power when we grew up.
Thought his 05 gsxr600 was modern power, said they didn't feel much different up to120mph.
And ,the HD owner that once owner of a 1166,who told me , mine was sick,bout month ago,he is coming by today to test!
Makes all that tuning worth it!

 

[limeex2]

Probably wouldn't jet for decal popping. My bikes have all been dyno'ed and they pop on decal. You can get any bike to run better with a dyno provided the person running and jetting knows his stuff. My 1100 w/GSXR carbs runs like a fuel injected bike from idle to redline. If you like to tinker and like how it runs, that's what matters most! I'm a putz. lol

 

[81gs7501166]

Rode yesterday with a couple pals, had my 7year old with me,no problems,no complaints,hardly even noticed the off idle stutter, mostly 45-50mph back roads, loged bout 100 miles.
Still got these new 117.5s,I'm going to try later on.
Thanks all.

 

[81gs7501166]

Tried the 117.5s yesterday, I'm leaving them in for now,with colds air approaching they may be the final change, at least they will be the winter choice,then when spring rolls around I may have to go back to the 115s.
They picked up the top just a tad,didn't notice any difference in roll ons, or off idle.
Thanks all.

 

[81gs7501166]

Changed baffle, more carb work?

Changed baffle, more carb work?

I got tired of all the noise, found my stock baffle can that came with pipe,it had never been used,I installed it with some surpriseing results.

I'm OK with the look, but I'm really excited about the new sound and POWER!
It has a nice mellow tone, idles smooth and quiet, now maby I can sneak off without anyone knowing. It now makes more low and mid torque,but it shocked me that it now has better top also.
The off idle stutter is also gone ,but their is something still going on at transition from cruise to 1/4 throttle.
I'll probably have to go back and play with the mains , I have 117.5s now and that seems lean according to what others have ended up with on a 1166.
It used to try to lift the front wheel a tad on 1 to 2 shift, now it trys to raise the wheel in first gear Roll ons.
I'll try to describe what's happening, instead of off idle,now it's off low cruise,it kinda hunts,or isn't smooth when cruising at low rpms..u can feel the bike pulling then not, it happens fast,kinda a surge .
I believe my diy baffle was too restrictive and now it's free flowing.
I'm leaving the mains alone,top is better than ever,today I'm putting the larger pilots in and removing the shim on the needle clip,going richer.[2nd from bottom].
If that don't help I'll go leaner on clip.
Hard for me to belive it makes more power all through the rpm with a baffle can than it did with an almost open pipe,
But it does,big difference,feels like 5-10hp.
Anyway I should have installed the can before all this carb tuning, hear we go Again!