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1166

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Guest

Guest
Preparing to install my 1166 kit and have a few questions. What do you use to stabilized the inner pistons while installing the cylinder block? What trick do you use to compress the rings? I'm going to use stock head and cams(for now) K&N pods, 4-1 Kerker pipe. The carbs are absolutely tuned in right now. (Using a Dynojet stage 3) Will I have to rejet for the 1166 mod?
 
Ah, the mighty 1166 kit -- a good move! But it's always tricky getting the block back down over the pistons. Esp. since you have bored out the cylinders, there is not a lot of the previously generous 'chamfer' left at the bottom of the sleeves to guide the pistons & rings in.

I used short lengths of pine across the crankcases under the piston skirts. That way no metal gets damaged, and the pistons are held square-on to the descending piston block.

Although you may be able to get things together without them, you really will need some piston ring clamps to hold the rings in as you tickle and prod and wriggle the pistons into the bores. I made my own from thin strips of aluminium sheet, but they didn't work really well, although I got there in the end.

So I would see if you can borrow or hire a set from a local motorcycle mechanic; they really will make things much easier.

As for re-jetting, unfortunately that is such a bike-specific thing. However, my punt would be that you will probably only have to adjust the pilot mixture, and put in a bigger set of main jets. My machine ran 107.5 main jets standard; now I have a set of 120 main jets with the 1166 kit, and it seems to be well sorted.

Hope that helps.
 
chef1366

I have used Jubilee hose clips to fit up pistons in the past. Tridon (Australian) make a thin sectioned stainless adjustable hose clip that is 1/2" wide. These are ideal as they will compress all three rings at once on the 850 pistons. You should be able to locate a US equivalent.
The ring separation on your new pistons should be of a similar configuration. If you haven't done the reboring yet, get those chamfers recut for a better lead in.
 
I second the wood blocks for the center pistons
Also, stuff some rags or paper towels around the rods to keep anything out of the crankcase
I also second the hose clamps as piston ring compressors. Lube the rings and piston and set the clamp tension so they will slide off
Start with the inner pistons, then lower the block some and do the outer pistons
Pull all the hose clamps and paper towels out and lower the block onto the case. Make sure all the gaskets and O rings are in place before the final drop.

You may find "Assemby Lube" to be helpful for this and any other mechanical assembly (wrist pins)

Your jetting will probably still be good, but who knows?
 
Assembly lube is fine everywhere EXCEPT on the piston rings & bores, because there must be a certain amount of friction for them to bed in.

In fact, even a smudge of assembly lube on the pistons/ rings/ bores can severely hamper the running-in process, so be very careful with the stuff.

Of course it's just the ticket for cam journals, cam lobes, wrist pins, etc.
 
excellent posts guyz...


gr8 project chef.... goodluck m8

gimme pics;)
 
don't forget to pull the camchain up first

just put a bit of tie wire on and pull it up before the final drop
 
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