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I have the 1166 kit in the bike with the Web Cams (.340 lift). I'm in awe of jgordons skills. He knows his way around these machines. I got to his house this morning he already had the top end off. (He is quite the early bird) He was working on the ring end gap and I was just looking for something to do to help him. After he got the rings on the new Wiseco pistons I got to help lower the cylinder over the pistons. As a team it wasnt too bad. I can see it being a real pain with one person. Then Jeff took the Ape heavy duty valve springs out of one of his heads(He went with an 1150 head on his 83 GS1100E) He even let me do three of them. I only lost one keeper for a few seconds.
Got the head on and torqued it down. Then the camshafts. We used the same camshaft caps that was with the head. You should never mix and match old cam caps. Then we degreed in the cams. I learned how to set the degree tool and the math on how figure it out.
In between all this Jeff put on the Vance and Hines clutch hub (which was even balanced) while I was on a wild goose chase looking for 7mm allen bolts for the camshaft sprockets. When I came back empty handed and a complete failure he found his and already had the exhaust cam installed.
While we were degreeing the cams I guess the signal generator lost a wire right at the unit. "No problem" says Jeff and pulls one out a of a rats nest of electrical units. So he put on the valve cover and stator cover while I wired in the new signal generator.
Tomorrow we're going to but on the carbs, K&N breather and tank and give it a whirl.
I didn't get all the pics I wanted to because I got caught up in all the fun.
enginerebuild004.jpg


enginerebuild002.jpg


enginerebuild001.jpg
 
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Whoe! Daja vue! Always best to have two folks...goes together better and faster and the company is always appreciated!

Hap:-D
 
Sorry to be off topic but i noticed that your oil pressure switch is the same as the on that is on my 83 engine now.The correct bracket for this year used to have both the oil pressure switch and oil temp switch lacated next to one another (screwed into the same bracket) now i have a diferent bracket. it looks just like yours and my oil temperature wire is just dangling.
Can you tell me where your oil temperature sender is located please. I can no longer purchase a new mounting bracket.
Thanks
 
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I already do. Took it out this morning. Couldn't really rip it cause it's raining and the roads are slick. It's a little sloppy off idle so I'm getting ready to adjust the idle adjustment screws and maybe sync the carbs. Otherwise it's pulling fine off the needle circuit and main(even though I didn't open it all the way) The valve clearance was set up at .005" and I'm not used to the noise but I'm sure I will get used to it:-D
 
When i did my 1166, i dropped the countershaft by one tooth. It was a nasy street bike.
 
Are you talking about the drive sprocket?
This bike is MEAN! I know I have to readjust and retourque everything after 500 miles but man, this bike ROCKS. Pulled a full wheelie in first and second (on a L model that is a feat) Steady pull way past 100 mph. (Use rpm guage cause of the 85 speedo.) My right mirror used to vibrate on any speed over 80 but it was smooth as glass at cruise rate.(balanced Vance and hines clutch hub) My old clutch hub was junk. The springs were ready to pop out they were so loose.
The idle is pretty dialed in but it has a slight pulse. I guess this is from the high lift cams?
I had to stop by jgordons to tell him he is the man! I was so excited about the difference.
 
Chef, sounds like a great combo. I am putting together an '83 GS1100E, with a 1166 piston kit, with the Webb .340 cams. Picked them up form a friend for cheap. Why did you choose them? Most shops like the .348 cams but the ones I have seen run them (.348) they end up running like a 'pig', with little low end. I have a set of 38 mm mikuni rs carbs for this bike also and a Star pipe. And a good cylinder head with 28.5/24 valves. Would appreciate any input on this set up and thanks. Good luck, Terry.
 
It's running great but I'm having trouble with low compression readings on 1,3, and 4 cylinder. I think my valves aren't sealing after switching to Ape HD valve springs. (Not from the springs themselves but from the old valves.)Tried to use my stock head which I was having no problem with it until now. I don't think it could handle the extra compression.
It has smooth takeoff from idle and a Screaming top end. I have an L model and the front tire hardly touches the ground.
I have less than 100 miles on this work and possibly I need more time for everything to seal up?
This is a great setup and I felt the extra power right away.
I'm using the stock CV carbs also.
 
Those 38's may be a little big for an 1166. You may get some slight hesitation when you go from idle to WOT. They will make the most power up top. you just can't snap it open especially when it's cold out.
 
Got to agree Rosco. The 38 rs's is what I've got now and at 5 grand hitting WOT it sometimes hesitated but then she really took off. I just upjetted to 137.5's and raised the needles 1 slot from the middle. Seems to snap pretty quick. I also have an 1166 kit but am using the .355" lift Megacycle cams. Seems to have a lumpy idle but great throttle response. I really screwed up putting the cams in but finally got it all sorted out and am pretty happy with the thing.
 
Ive got the same set up on my 83' plus a couple other little things but there is one thing for sure. Now that Ive got it dialed in good, Its crap your pants scary at times. Like juicin' it around a corner from a stop and the front lifting while your leaning. Better wear dark pants.
Couple things I found helped bring the bottom end back to snappy was advancing the intake cam 2 degrees and I run a 530 chain conversion with a 44 tooth rear sprocket. Thats 2 teeth more than stock and 10 lbs lighter.
Ive been using stock 1150 BS carbs which are the 36mm variety and have found 147.5 main jets about perfect. I didnt mess with the pilots and I dont feel any bog on transition.

Also good to put a manual chain tensioner in if you havent.

Be Careful and Hold On.
 
I feel like a tard. I forgot to open the throttle while doing my compression check. I'll post the new numbers tomorrow.:oops:
 
Been there! Hey the good news is you probably have fine compression :)
 
Mike McNaney said:
Ive got the same set up on my 83' plus a couple other little things but there is one thing for sure. Now that Ive got it dialed in good, Its crap your pants scary at times. Like juicin' it around a corner from a stop and the front lifting while your leaning. Better wear dark pants.
Couple things I found helped bring the bottom end back to snappy was advancing the intake cam 2 degrees and I run a 530 chain conversion with a 44 tooth rear sprocket. Thats 2 teeth more than stock and 10 lbs lighter.
Ive been using stock 1150 BS carbs which are the 36mm variety and have found 147.5 main jets about perfect. I didnt mess with the pilots and I dont feel any bog on transition.

Also good to put a manual chain tensioner in if you havent.

Be Careful and Hold On.
Click to expand...
We set the exhaust at 106 degrees and the intake at 107 degrees.
I've been trying to take it easy but I've ripped it a few times and I did have dark pants on:oops:
Quite a difference from the stock setup!
I have the stock bs34 but have a dynojet stage 3 with the dynojet 132 main and needle set on second groove up from the bottom. Just a little pulse in the idle but it has a smooth transition from idle.
Thanks Jeff!
 
New compression numbers.
1- 180# 2- 170# 3- 170# 4- 180#


That's more like it!!!!!
 
Can anyone say what the performance numbers are for this combo (1/4) mile and speed numbers. And dyno figures too. GS1100 with 1166 kit and street ported head with the .340 lift Web cams. And with 36 CV's from the 1150 or Mikuni 38 RS series carbs. Also with 4 into one pipe. Thanks for any info. Terry.
 
This is on my dragbike a couple years ago. 1166 low compression wiseco pistons, stock head-no porting, stock cams, msd/dyna s ignition, and a star drag pipe, 36 mikuni's with pod filters. I should note that with stock pistons I was making 113 Hp and 75 foot pounds.

dyno.jpg
 
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