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16V Clearance Check, 700E

  • Thread starter Thread starter JMHJ
  • Start date Start date
J

JMHJ

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I did the check and adjust this afternoon/evening, as I thought they could use it. Mainly the sound of the engine led me to believe that. However, I can't say that there was any improvement after I got done.

They all measured about .13 - .15mm before, and I put them at .09 - .10mm, with a few .08s.

The bike runs strong, lots of power, but I'd describe what I'm perceiving to be the top end as mildly noisy, more so than the two other GS fours I've had (one 16V and one 8V).

Any comments? This bike has a little over 40k miles. I've got it posted in the for sale section also (yeah, this is really gonna help :o). I just want to be able to ride it or pass it to a a new owner without worry that something is genuinely amiss, and my range of experience of what these bikes do/should sound like is fairly narrow.
 
We just did the valves on mine and they are kind of noisy comared to the bikes with the shims.
 
A little noise from the valve train is normal but not sure what yours sounds like. The banjo bolts holding the oil lines on your model engine like to snap off so that's one thing to check. Another is to make sure the cam chain tensioner is not binding up. Assuming everything looks fine I'd assume the noise is normal.
 
When the valves were set properly on my 16v, I found it a little more "clicky" than usual. Sort of a mechanical sewing machine sound, if you will.
 
My 750 16V was noisey as well, particuarly at start up - a bit quieter once warmed.
 
Nessism said:
Another is to make sure the cam chain tensioner is not binding up.
Click to expand...

I can't move it at all by hand, but the one on my 850 turns easily counterclockwise (w/spring tension back clockwise of course).

The timing chain looked fairly tight yesterday, but I didn't try to move it up and down.
 
Someone leave the setscrew set?
Might be a good idea to pull it and see what's up inside.
Very slightly loose chains can make a heck of a lot of noise.
 
My 85 GS700ES is the same way even after I adjusted the valves on mine also, I thought it was just that the bike is 25yrs old LOL, It still runs extremly well even after the dragstrip today !!! LOL
 
I got the tensioner knob to move easily yesterday with a pair of pliers, and I reset the setscrew on the tensioner (1/4 turn out from all the way in). Maybe it's my imagination, but the engine seemed quieter when started from cold after that, really smooth. There was some sound back after it warmed up though. This may have been how it was all along.

Same thing this evening - quietest (whatever I'm hearing, more on the left side than right) when cold, with some sound once it's warm (not bad, just enough that I want to know what it is).

I can move the T-knob by hand after I break it free with pliers, but if I run the engine, I have to use pliers again to move it. I stopped short of pulling it to check it out further, but that is my next step I think.

Bike still seems to be running well, and the V&H really sounds good, just a little too loud at the higher rpms for my comfort level (for bothering people). I rewrapped the baffle before riding tonight, but that didn't change it much. Maybe smoothed it up a little.
 
I'm kinda wondering too, if the valve clearances were fine or better at .13-15mm where they were, rather than the .08-.10mm where I put them. The book says .09-.13.
 
Now that Iv'e been reading about the chain tensioner the more I remember looking at it when I first got the bike and (Stupid ME) playing with it when the carbs were of saying whats this thingy do?? Lets turn it? Whoops then I read somewhere on here that you should NOT just turn it Whoops, now I guess I'm going to have to check into adjusting it or reseting it.
 
I don't think turning the knurled knob hurts anything if the motor's not running (wouldn't swear to it though...), it's the setscrew on the left side that shouldn't be backed out too far, or left tightened up all the way. That's my understanding of it anyway.
 
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