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1978 gs 750e cafe racer rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter drivera84
  • Start date Start date
I forgot to mention...the carbs are pretty clean. I removed, cleaned them and stored them a long time ago so they havnt been exposed to gasoline or water in a long time, I think I might just get away with o-rings.
 
I use diesel to unstuck the stuck.
That looks pretty rough, expect to take it completely apart.
 
240punk said:
I use diesel to unstuck the stuck.
That looks pretty rough, expect to take it completely apart.
Click to expand...


would it be ok to pour some diesel down the crankcase too? just to loosen some stuff up a bit?
 
Yep... will be much better than draining it and letting air rust everything into one solid mass. Water and milky oil is BAAAAD!
I worry you are going to have your hands full with this one my friend. But I look at it as Fun times... so have at it!
 
Thanks for the support, im having fun with this.

I have no rush so ill work slow and have fun...i will try to post some pics!!!

Hoosier daddy, i checked the links to your other bikes....nice work!
 
Thanks for the compliments! Since you saw my Goldwing finished, here is a little something I did a while back I think you can relate to...

 
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Thanks H.D.

Spit, polish...and alot of patience

:-)

those goldwings really have wicked looking engines!!!!
 
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a friend and car mechanic gave me some "tips". I wanted to ask you guys to see what you think.

He took a good look at it and said that the pistons might be saved but that I had to work with patience not to ruin them.

Keep on spraying wd40 and diesel and pull one of the engine covers to expose the crankshaft "bolt?" To be able to turn it....he told me not to use too much force so as not to scratch or break anything just to play with it some every day and it will slowly start loosening up.

I have two questions for you guys...wich of the engine coves should I remove?

Is this a good Idea or you have a better method to unstick this engine?

thanks!
 
That's as good an idea as any. WD40 isn't going to be a huge help, but maybe combined with diesel it'll be ok.

Remove the timing cover which is on the right side case cover. That should give you access to the end of the crankshaft which is where you should attempt to turn it from.

At least that's how it is for my 450 but I'm pretty sure the bigger ones are the same...
 
hi guys,

I took off the gauge cluster yesterday...it was broken. I like how it looks without it...is there any danger in leaving it off?

Not much progress in the engine...I keep on spraying it and adding diesel. I took off the crash guards and was going to take the engine guard off but the bolts were very rusty so I gave em a little squirt with penetrating oil before I try to remove them....luckily patience is on my side...

thanks!
 
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drivera84 said:
hi guys,

I took off the gauge cluster yesterday...it was broken. I like how it looks without it...is there any danger in leaving it off?
Click to expand...

Nope, I don't think losing track of the miles will hurt your resale value on this at all;). A good electronic speedo will run you $100+, I just use a bicycle speedo:

http://www.aerostich.com/sigma-speedometer.html

Double check the threading if you have to go this route, but I believe it was a standard size M18 oil pan drain plug from the auto parts store I ground down to plug my leaky tach drive. (pull the unit off, push the drive shaft out, plug and reinstall. I had to grind the bolt shorter and take down the shoulder of the bolt to clear the cam chain bulge in the case. A little redneck, but if you do it cleanly it looks good. Maybe just special order a nicer looking bolt:rolleyes:)


Hoosier Daddy said:
Click to expand...

Awesome.
 
It's a good thing that the deal for the '80 750 motor fell through because it wouldn't have fit in that frame without mods. They're completely different motors/bikes.
When hunting for parts, be aware that 77-79 750s will all have compatable parts, while any 750 after 79 will likely have very few direct swap parts.

If you're hunting for a larger motor, a GS1000E motor will swap with some minor modification to the frame mounts but no other motor will be a direct bolt in besides a first gen 750 motor.

Good luck with your project. :)
 
verde said:
Nope, I don't think losing track of the miles will hurt your resale value on this at all;). A good electronic speedo will run you $100+, I just use a bicycle speedo:

http://www.aerostich.com/sigma-speedometer.html

Double check the threading if you have to go this route, but I believe it was a standard size M18 oil pan drain plug from the auto parts store I ground down to plug my leaky tach drive. (pull the unit off, push the drive shaft out, plug and reinstall. I had to grind the bolt shorter and take down the shoulder of the bolt to clear the cam chain bulge in the case. A little redneck, but if you do it cleanly it looks good. Maybe just special order a nicer looking bolt:rolleyes:) .
Click to expand...

good thing you mentioned this...my gauge cluster had no tach...so I dont know where the cable plugs into the engine...could you please elaborate on this.... If you have pics it would be awesome!
 
TheCafeKid said:
It's a good thing that the deal for the '80 750 motor fell through because it wouldn't have fit in that frame without mods. They're completely different motors/bikes.
When hunting for parts, be aware that 77-79 750s will all have compatable parts, while any 750 after 79 will likely have very few direct swap parts.

If you're hunting for a larger motor, a GS1000E motor will swap with some minor modification to the frame mounts but no other motor will be a direct bolt in besides a first gen 750 motor.

Good luck with your project. :)
Click to expand...


thanks for the input! I feel better about fixing the original engine that came with the bike anyway!

I dont know if I want a bigger engine...I think the 750 is plenty power!!!:D

maybe in the future Ill see if I get my hands on a full dressed 1100...someday...
 
drivera84 said:
good thing you mentioned this...my gauge cluster had no tach...so I dont know where the cable plugs into the engine...could you please elaborate on this.... If you have pics it would be awesome!
Click to expand...

No tach from the factory or missing the tach? If they made a lower trim model without a tach, then maybe you already have some sort of factory plug there.

As for pics, you're in luck. I just snapped a pick of the leaky one on my '79 I haven't addressed yet. That screw at 8 o'clock holds a little retainer in a grove in the drive housing. The o-ring on the housing was fine on my '78, but the seals for the tach drive shaft were shot. You have to pull the whole housing out and then you can push the drive shaft out and either replace seals or just plug it.
IMG_20111029_130833.jpg


And you're extra in luck because the bolt on my '78 has the threads printed on it. Note, as you can only get a few threads deep, I had to very carefully grind down the length and clen up the leading thread with a trangle file. Install with your choice of o-ring, silicon, sealing washer, whatever. Don't over tighten since there are so few threads and it's aluminum.
IMG_20111029_131008.jpg
 
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verde said:
No tach from the factory or missing the tach? If they made a lower trim model without a tach, then maybe you already have some sort of factory plug there.
Click to expand...

thanks man...this is just what I needed....the bike was crashed before it was put in storage....the tach was broken and the cable removed.

Now that I see the little hole I dont remember seeing it in my engine...maybe it has already been plugged...I will get back to you guys no this...
 
Hi guys,

While I wait for the engine to unstick...Ill begin working in the head. When I took it off about 5 years ago all I did was take it off and put it in a box. It has very little if any surface rust. What should I check?

How can I tell if the valves are good?

thanks
 
Check spring length per manual and the valve guides for wear.
Check valve clearances as well.
 
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