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1978 GS1000 wont start, sat 10 years

  • Thread starter Thread starter matt8874
  • Start date Start date
Its the blue C model from what i saw of the tank. Wire rims and only 1 brake caliper up front??? Its a bike that was made for just 1978 with the indented tank ..so ( to me ) its well worth the investment to get it all done right the first time. Then the cost drops sharply as its just routine maintenace after that.
 
Yes its the GS1000C
Should I get the VM carb o-ring kit or do I also need the Viton intake o-rings?
 
1 VM Kit and the orings for the intake are on page 3 here. Measure the ones on your bike first. I 'think" they are 32 or 33 MM ID. But its been a few years since I have redone all my 1000s.....

http://cycleorings.com/
 
4..there is 1 in each intake manifiold..the rubber things that hold the carbs. And I would do away with the phillips head bolts and get allen heads. The phillips strip out easy. If they round out on you take a dremal and cut a slot in them so you can use a flat tip. Be patient and get them out. And another trick is this..if you get 1 out and then others a beotch just twist the entire thing to the left. Sometimes this will help break the stubborn ones loose. Just be careful not to rip the rubber off the flanges. if it seems risky stop and do the dremel thing.
 
If you buy from Robert barr (cycle o rings) then one kit would do you. Just before careful than I was in ordering the right size. :). It would also be wise to buy the Allen head screws for the carbs at the same time. Cheap money. Most of the stuff needed will be more than you like to spend but it's mostly a 1 time for most of it. Unless your grandfather is available and can tell you for certain that maintenance was done then assume you will be catching up on neglected stuff. BUT WHEN you are DONE you will have a very reliable stylish and unique bike, with plenty of parts and knowledge support.
 
Okay so I figured out one reason it wont start, no spark from the plugs. So I am looking for a spark plug wire set but cant find anything but universals. Apparently they take an 8mm wire set? Can someone help me find a good set that isnt too expensive but not exactly cheap either?
I now have the carb cleaner dip can and new plugs.
I took off the petcock yesterday, it wasnt very dirty but I will be putting that into the carb can as well.
One last question, I found online that people suggest putting in a rust penetration with some nuts and bolts and shaking the gas tank all over to break out the rust, then using an epoxy to seal it so it wont rust again, is this method safe? I have a can of PB Blaster that I can unload into it.
 
PB will do nothing. Do the vinegar like I said. If you dont want to do as we tell you youre just spinning your wheels and gonna be there with a bike that keeps fuccking up. I hate to be so blunt but we have been there and done that so you need to heed our advice. The wires are 7 MM and theres a wire replacement turorial.......
 
Problem is I cant find the 8% vinegar anywhere but Amazon. Does it have to be 8% or will any white vinegar work? Id rather use this method, seems more logical.
And where is the tutorial? I looked in the electrical forum but couldnt find it.
 
This is what the wire joins inside the coil..

What you do is cut the epoxy off around the wire at the coil and pull the old wires out. Youll see the pin in the hole. If theres glue stuck to the sides of the hole, use something to scrape it off but dont bend the pin . A rat tail file will work or a bolt thread scrubbed in and out will wear off the glue. Just get the hole clean.

Shove the new wire in and "FEEL" for it to get on the pin. By slowly pushing it on youll feel it sort of click as it slides over the pins ridges.

Use the old wire for practicing..put it on and feel for the "ticks" and then check the end of the wire to see if you hit the core or not. Once youve got it down pat by using the old wire for practice, put in the new wires and use 5 minute epoxy to secure them to the coil body.

Some folks put about 1/2 inch of the new wire in the hole and then a little RTV to water seal them as well and then cap them off with the epoxy.



850HTLeadReplacement001.jpg
 
matt8874 said:
Okay so I figured out one reason it wont start, no spark from the plugs. So I am looking for a spark plug wire set but cant find anything but universals. Apparently they take an 8mm wire set? Can someone help me find a good set that isnt too expensive but not exactly cheap either?
Click to expand...

What makes you think it's the wires that are the problem? Coils rarely fail

Does the bikes still have points? that's most likely the problem. Take off the small cover on the right end of the crank and tell us what's under there
 
chuck hahn said:
Good idea to refresh the wires anyway. Get that off the plate as a possible weak link.
Click to expand...

Why spend money on something that's working?

Besides, the wires are part of the coil

Take off the points cover
Turn on the key
Confirm that there is power to the points
remove #4 plug and lay it against the block
open the 1-4 points and see if the plug fires

besides
 
Yes it does have points, I will try testing the points this weekend.

You say confirm there is power to the points, how do I do this? I have never messed with points before, let alone a bike at all. I have some car experience so Im familiar with a lot of stuff just not very knowledgeable with bike stuff, especially older.
And also how do I "open the 1-4 points"? And "see if the plug fires" refers to plug #4? (Which I assume is the right-most plug while sitting on the bike?)
 
Take a voltmeter and check the wire connection on the points, should be 12 V with the key on

Open with a small screwdriver
Yes, plug #4 is the right plug, use that one as it will be right in your face
The 1-4 points are on the left, you can confirm via the timing marks behind the hole in the points plate - it will show T1-4F with a mark by the T and the F
 
matt8874 said:
I have never messed with points before, let alone a bike at all. I have some car experience so Im familiar with a lot of stuff just not very knowledgeable with bike stuff, especially older.
Click to expand...

I refer you to post #3 in this thread - read the service manual, it's all in there. No-one is going to read it to you.
 
Ok heres an update. My grandpa bought the wrong book, its for 1979 and newer, and also I could not find how to test the points. I took the cover off, and a condenser and tried to test it but my multimeter is junk. So I put it all back together and took the carbs off and apart to prepare to dip them. I have the o-ring sets on the way, should be a couple more days.

I also found out that the wire that goes into the coils (both wires for both coils precisely) have 0.0 voltage with the key on and on run. Could this be the wires just being too old and need replaced? Or possibly my junk multimeter not reading it.. Ill get another tomorrow.
 
BigT..wire is 99 cents a foot and it takes 15 minutes to put new wires into a coil. Old wires may test well and then when you put them on the bike and start it they arch and short via small cracks in the broke down insulation to the engine itself...thats why.
 
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