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1978 gs1000

  • Thread starter Thread starter Loki
  • Start date Start date
Ringed the pistons and installed. Got the jugs and the head / cams installed and valve adjustment done.

Took all the brake parts to work last week and glass bead blasted them, I think I'm going to just clear coat the calipers and leave em raw metal looking. May look pretty cool with all the metal around polished and the SS lines.

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Be sure to use clear thats made specifically for calipers..regular engine or rattle can clear WILL wash right off if brake fluid gets on it like while bleeding the systems.
 
Thanks for the reminder Chuck on the clear, that would have been bad. You also got me addicted to the Wizard's power seal, love that stuff. :dancing:


Got the speedo parts in the mail from rustybronco, thanks again as it worked out perfect. Rolled the odo back and cleaned / lubed everything. Touched up the light lettering and put a coat of back to black on it.


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Skuld said:
Loki, you inspire me to complete my bike... it's been a long time working here and there on it... I just wish I was more mechanically inclined so I could do it all myself faster.
Click to expand...

You can do it, if I can anybody can. Work slow, methodical and follow the directions, if in doubt, stop and ask. :)
 
Loki said:
Got the speedo parts in the mail from rustybronco, thanks again as it worked out perfect.
Click to expand...
Glad it arrived in good shape.

You really need to open up the tach and repaint the needle... ;)
 
rustybronco said:
Glad it arrived in good shape.

You really need to open up the tach and repaint the needle... ;)
Click to expand...

Yea, when I painted the tip of the speedo needle I thought about it, hate to open it up for just a dab of paint though. But it may bug me till I do it...
 
Loki...yup that Wizaards Power Seal is the stuff for sure. I apply a liberal amount and rub it in till its almost dired off and then clean it to a nice shine with a clean cotton Tshirt rag.
 
I have a third set with repainted needles if you'd like me to really 'bug' you. ;)
 
Hey Loki,
Just picked up on this thread (not sure how I missed seeing it before). Congratulations on the way your rebuild is shaping up - you put my workmanship to shame. I ended up cutting a few corners to get mine finished.

Did you settle on the red paint scheme ? Mine was originally that and I kept it. If you haven't got the paint already we found that there is a Toyota colour that is an exact match.
 
Just joined here, great thread I'm hooked. My '79 needs restoring luckily not as much as yours. Great job so far!
 
Bill Alexander said:
Hey Loki,
Just picked up on this thread (not sure how I missed seeing it before). Congratulations on the way your rebuild is shaping up - you put my workmanship to shame. I ended up cutting a few corners to get mine finished.

Did you settle on the red paint scheme ? Mine was originally that and I kept it. If you haven't got the paint already we found that there is a Toyota colour that is an exact match.
Click to expand...

Your tank looks really nice. Yes I have scored the red, the white and the gold pinstripe paint already but thanks for the info on the toyota color.
 
nminus1 said:
Just joined here, great thread I'm hooked. My '79 needs restoring luckily not as much as yours. Great job so far!
Click to expand...

Thanks buddy, it's coming together. Should be firing it up tomorrow, just finished the exhaust, oil pan and a whole lots more.
 
Well after chasing a bad starter solenoid ground for 3 hours, she turns over. Cleaned and repaired all connections as I went along. Put the battery in, got the neutral light and the low oil pressure light to come on. Hit the start button and nada. Checked voltage at the yellow / green solenoid wire and had 6 volts. Took the ignition switch apart, again and cleaned it. Took the RH control switch apart, again and cleaned it. Tried it again and nothing. Ohm checked all the switches and all good.

Jumped the solenoid and the starter kicks over. Ran the yellow / green wire to 12 volts direct and nothing. Took the solenoid out, tried it on the bench with 12 volts direct, click click click. Put it back in, cleaned all grounds again and bingo, she turns over good. Have to install the carbs tomorrow and time to fire it up.

Got the exhaust installed, coils and the dyna s and most of the harness done.

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Read the insructions on the can for the curing process.. I dont know what youn used but the best way I can figure to do a good "cureing" is to start the bike for maybe 5 or 10 minutes at a time..just till the jugs get decently hot. Let it sit about an hr and do that again but increase the run time a bit. I found that if you just start it and it gets really hot it will get little bubbles in the finish. Cure slowly and build up is the key I have had sucess with.
 
Well no go on getting her started. Have 2 issues, the fuel tee between 2-3 carbs is leaking pretty bad. Checked voltage at the coils, and with the key on I only have 9 volts, if I hit the starter the coil voltage drops to 7 ish. Instead of chasing it further a coil relay mod is in order along with a new fuel tee.

On the good side, I got the rest of the harness figured out. The headlight and turn signal wiring had been modified for the vetter fairing it once had.

Got the new clutch cable installed and the new throttle cables. While waiting for parts I will do more polishing and paint prep work on the tank and tail cowl.
 
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