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1978 GS750 Fuel Line

  • Thread starter Thread starter afraziaaaa
  • Start date Start date
A

afraziaaaa

Guest
I am a new GS750 owner. Is this original equipment on this bike or is this a band-aid put on by an owner who had a rusty gas tank? This is the line from petcock to carbs. The inline filter is inside another hose that connects to the carburetors. That hose is removed in this picture.

F48A598B-FA36-43BF-AE06-CFE73E2522BA.jpg
 
Not original. Check the fishe at partzilla if you want more confirmation.
 
A good opportunity to check the filter you are removing for rust particles.
Maybe check the tank and filter on the petcock for debris.
 
Put new fuel and vacuum lines on from petcock to carbs. I had them laying around in the garage. Previous vac line was too big and idle was a bit jumpy when it would idle. Previously was hard to start and stay running.

With the new lines the bike fired immediately.

Tank is on the to do list without a doubt.
 
This isn't a requirement but I definitely recommend it: get the OEM Suzuki fuel line. It's 7mm, which is just a tad larger than 1/4" and a tad smaller than 5/16, the most commonly available sizes in the auto parts department. The OEM line fits perfectly, does not require a clamp and is very flexible. I've found that 1/4" is too tight and the 5/16" is loose enough that it requires a clamp. The commonly available clear fuel line is also not as flexible and tends to harden with age.

Cheers!
K
 
Clean the tank before running the engine much. Why risk sucking chunks up into the carb jets and have to go through that mess.
 
I have to concur with Chuck .. if you found debris in the inline filter that means its getting past the petcock screen. That means junk is getting into your carbs potentially clogging them and potentially doing damage to your engine. Its not worth it. You will just be back here in 4 months asking why your bike wont run.

There are a number of threads here on rust removal. I used KBS and was happy with the rust removal system and I went as far as tank liner. Tank liner seems to be controversial but you should at least take it through rust removal.
 
Boriqua said:
I have to concur with Chuck .. if you found debris in the inline filter that means its getting past the petcock screen. That means junk is getting into your carbs potentially clogging them and potentially doing damage to your engine. Its not worth it. You will just be back here in 4 months asking why your bike wont run.

There are a number of threads here on rust removal. I used KBS and was happy with the rust removal system and I went as far as tank liner. Tank liner seems to be controversial but you should at least take it through rust removal.
Click to expand...

thanks for the kbs recommendation. Looks like a good system and simple to use. I think I?ll go for that one.

i found that the left points contact was beyond maximum wear. Replaced it and the bike runs fairly smoothly now.

im going to rebuild the front end and this will also be a good time to clean the gas tank out.
 
Replacing points as a set is advisable. That way you know BOTH are the same wear to begin with. Ive never heard of anyone ever replacing just one point of the set. I will carry a worn set of points if Im going on a long trip for emergency use only to get me home or at least off the road side.
 
chuck hahn said:
Replacing points as a set is advisable. That way you know BOTH are the same wear to begin with. Ive never heard of anyone ever replacing just one point of the set. I will carry a worn set of points if Im going on a long trip for emergency use only to get me home or at least off the road side.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Consider me an ignition points rebel! You heard it here first...
 
You CAN get Dyna coils IF you want. Ive put Dynas on and used the stock coils just fine.
 
You dont need the dyna coils, though I have them on my bike. The swap for electronic ignition is pretty well documented here and is a pretty simple gig. I want to say it was about $120 from memory.
 
Good to know, thanks to all. I'll keep the dyna ignition in mind for a future upgrade, but won't do it anytime soon. It is something I had already thought about!
 
So I have the tank off and am in the process of doing the KBS cleaner/liner kit. I just completed the clean portion and am wondering how long most folks allow the tank to air dry before the rust blast step?
 
afraziaaaa said:
So I have the tank off and am in the process of doing the KBS cleaner/liner kit. I just completed the clean portion and am wondering how long most folks allow the tank to air dry before the rust blast step?
Click to expand...

You can do the rust blast fairly soon after the clean. I took a hair dryer and made a little funnel out of some thin cardboard and with a large opening that just fit in the tank. I duct taped it to the hairdryer and with the gas sensor removed and petcock out I let the hair dryer on low for 15-20 minutes to help speed things up
 
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