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1979 1000 carb jetting questions. VM different than CM?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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OK, I've been reading thru old threads using the search, but can't find the answer to my question. I am in the middle of a complete rebuild of this bike. I'm ready to put the carbs back together but need help. For starters I bought the bike this past fall. It had a Kerker 4-1 and pods. I took the carbs apart and gave them a good cleaning. I was able to get the bike to run, but not well. It took about a good week of fooling around with the carb settings just to make it ridable. It was a great learning experience, but a PITA.

So I plan on still using the Kerker and pods. Here is my question. Does the stage 3 jet kit just come with larger jets? I have the old VM26 carbs. From what I can gather, the CM type carbs get new slides along with needing to drill. Would my carbs require the same? If all the kit comes with are larger jets can I just buy a range of jets and forgoe the $100-$120 to buy the stage 3 or do I just fork over the money. Any suggestions for starting points of jet sizes?

Any info would be great. I know I'm in for a hard time but for now I just need somewhere to start.

Thanks,
-Tom
 
Tom,

I've got the same bike, and I'm about to do the same thing with my carbs.

The Dynojet kit (I think it's part number 3304, from memory) comes with TWO sets of main jets (different sizes), two drill bits, some washers and o-rings, and something else that I forget right now, plus instructions, which could be very important to you, unless you are a better mechanic than I am. The trouble is, the Dynojet website (www.dynojet.com) doesn't show you which parts you get in the kit (for our 1979 GS1000 bikes). You have to call the customer service line to find out The price is approximately $130 with shipping.

I thought about trying to make up my own kit by assembling different parts from different sources, and finally decided to spend the dough and buy the kit from Dynojet.

You'll also probably need to buy all all three o-rings for each carb from your Suzuki dealer (don't forget to get new o-rings for your carb boots at the intake manifold), and a partial carb rebuild kit at a better price from www.partsnmore.com. I think it's kit number 44-1414. Ther'e a guy named Robert Barr who sells o-rings that people talk about on this website, but I don't think he has all the o-rings for our VM carbs.

The whole carb rebuild project for all four carbs would run you approximately $175 to $200 for parts depending on the sources you choose, plus your labor.

It is important that I give Keith Krause here on the GSR the credit for the info I gave you. I got it from him in the first place.
 
Thanks guys. I looked up the Dynojet part # for a stage 3. I bought it for $107 shipped. I tried pricing out new mains and pilots, and it was getting expensive. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel I just bit the bullet and ponied up the money. Hopefully I can tune this thing to make it driveable. I am getting the frame sandblasted this week. Hopefully I can get it running by the end of the month.

If anyone has any pointers or experience with a '78 or '79 1000 carb jetting, feel free to chime in and let me know of any hints/tips.

Thanks
-Tom
 
There are no "O" rings in the "O" ring kit for CV carbs that will fit the VM series carbs.

Earl

bgk said:
Ther'e a guy named Robert Barr who sells o-rings that people talk about on this website, but I don't think he has all the o-rings for our VM carbs.
Click to expand...
 
Hi-
I'm new here, but my old '78 GS1000 had stock VM carbs (27mm, I thought...), a Kerker and individual k&n's- I remember that it wouldn't even idle before I started jetting after removinig the airbox.
It ended up with (all Mikuni jets) 112.5 mains, 17.5 pilots, 3 turns out on the bottom screws, 1.25 turns out on the side screws. Somehow, I didn't write down the needle height, but raise them.
It ran very well everywhere and got good mileage, until my friend flew it off the Blue Ridge Parkway- he was lucky; the bike landed far below.
David
 
Chicago 1000L said:
Thanks guys. I looked up the Dynojet part # for a stage 3. I bought it for $107 shipped. I tried pricing out new mains and pilots, and it was getting expensive. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel I just bit the bullet and ponied up the money. Hopefully I can tune this thing to make it driveable. I am getting the frame sandblasted this week. Hopefully I can get it running by the end of the month.

If anyone has any pointers or experience with a '78 or '79 1000 carb jetting, feel free to chime in and let me know of any hints/tips.

Thanks
-Tom
Click to expand...

Hey where did you buy the kit?
 
Chicago 1000L said:
Thanks guys. I looked up the Dynojet part # for a stage 3. I bought it for $107 shipped. I tried pricing out new mains and pilots, and it was getting expensive. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel I just bit the bullet and ponied up the money. Hopefully I can tune this thing to make it driveable. I am getting the frame sandblasted this week. Hopefully I can get it running by the end of the month.

If anyone has any pointers or experience with a '78 or '79 1000 carb jetting, feel free to chime in and let me know of any hints/tips.

Thanks
-Tom
Click to expand...
The Dynojet kit, 3304, includes two choices of mains, needles, needle spacers, drill bit that's not needed, and instructions. This kit is designed for a quality pipe, such as your Kerker, and K&N pod filters. If you're running pod's that don't flow as well as K&N's, my suggested settings will be off. Their "base settings" for the needle are too lean and I don't know of any bike that ran right with that setting.
Try these settings if you have K&N's. Mains: 138, needle: clip in the 4th position from the top, pilot jet: stock, pilot screw (underneath): 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns out, side air screws: 2 turns out (you should set for highest idle).
REMOVE the two floatbowl vent tubes. These settings work well for my bike that has it's cams timed at 106 degrees. The pilot screws are the fine tuning of each cylinder and they may end up set differently from each other such as: 1 1/2, 1 5/8, 1 3/4, 1 5/8. This is normal. Do what the plugs tell you to do. Make sure your ignition timing is set correctly and your valve clearances are good before you do a carb sinc'. To avoid mixture problems, get the vacuum levels to within 1 cm of each other.
 
And don't forget to make sure your float levels are correct!!

Dm of mD
 
Hey Chicago 1000L,

Thanks for posting the motorcycleproshop website link. That's a nice price for the Dynojet kit

Could you (or anyone else with the info) please also post the contact info for Robert Barr (phone number, email, website?).

I'm happy to learn from you that Robert Barr will have o-ring sets for VM carbs in a few weeks.

Thanks to Keith Krause's expert advice and assistance, I've decided to completely renovate a spare set of VM 26 carbs that I acquired recently.

A full carb clean, rebuild, and rejet with all new gaskets, jets, needles, etc., followed by a full carb synch and careful air and fuel screw adjustments after the carbs are installed on the bike.

Here's my current plan list of parts and sources:

1 - Dynojet stage 3 jet kit from motorcycleproshop (for K&N filters and 4 into 1 pipe).

2 - Partial carb rebuild kit with top and bottom carb gaskets and float bowl needle/seat from partsnmore.

3 - O-rings from Robert Barr.

Am I missing anything?

Any other ideas/suggestions/parts sources I should know about?

Thanks guys.

1979 GS1000L - Gettin' better and better every time I work on her and riding sweeter and sweeter every day I ride!
 
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