1979 GS 1000 E won't run at low rpm.[b]

[Anonymous]

I posted here earlier this week and hope to find someone who may have had the same problem. Basically the bike hauls and develops full horsepower at high revs but getting up there is the problem. At idle and slightly higher it stalls and struggles. Plugs are fouling quickly. The air filter was cleaned --no difference, air filter removed--no difference. No EPA plugs on this bike. Has anyone heard of worn needles and seats creating this result? Mileage is 77,000 km. Should I rebuild these carbs or replace with used set with 10,000 km? I can get the used ones for $150 Cdn. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Roger

 

[Anonymous]

i'd be looking at the needles, seats and floats. At 77,000km I would be surprized that your floats don't float anymore. Take them off and test them in a container of gas (outside of course)

If you spark is blue, then it sounds like flooding.

 

[Anonymous]

I am having a very similar problem with my 1978 GS 1000.

When starting it runs very poorly. Sounds and feels like it is running on 3 cylinders, but after about 2 minutes it runs beautifully with full power. I KNOW it is jetted way to rich and that is one problem. What I am thinking is that I have an intake leak that goes away as the motor heats up and things expand.....

Any ides what I should be checking on? :?: :?:

 

[Anonymous]

SURE SOUNDS LIKE A BAD PETCOCK DIAPHRAM

 

[Anonymous]

SURE SOUNDS LIKE A BAD PETCOCK DIAPHRAM

Thanks for the FAST reply Scotty! But why would it go away after a few minutes then??? :?:

 

[Anonymous]

FUNNY YOU SHOULD ASK
USUALLY IF YOUR BIKE HAS A VACUME OPERATED PETCOCK, THE PETCOCK OPENS JUST AS THE MOTOR STARTS RUNNING. THE PETCOCK HAS 2 LINES GOING TO IT--ONE IS FROM THE GAS TANK AND THE OTHER USUALLY RUNS TO THE ENGINE SIDE OF THE NUMBER 2 CARBEURATOR--WHEN THE DIAPHRAM STARTS TO GO BAD THE FUEL SEEPS PAST AND LOADS UP #2 CYLINDER WHICH CAUSES THE MOTOR TO RUN POORLY AT IDLE AND UNTILL YOU REV IT UP ENOUGH TO CLEAR THE PLUG OR USE ALL THE UN WANTED FUEL-THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MANY OF US AND WE CHOSE DIFERENT SOLUTIONS-IF THIS IS THE CASE, YOU CAN BUY A NEW PETCOCK$$$$$$$ OR REBUILD IT FOR ABOUT $25 I THINK-OR GO FOR A PINGEL MANUAL PETCOCK FOR ABOUT 90 DOLLARS IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY- THE PINGELS COME WITH A RESERVE POSITION IF YOU ASK FOR IT--A COUPLE OF US HAVE PURCHASED THEM FROM www.murdochracing.com in florida-- i deal with this company for most of my speed equipment and general replacement parts HOW CAN YOU TELL IF THE PETCOCK IS BAD???
First find the vacume line from the petcock to the carb. Second--pull the line off at either end ((i prefer to use the end on the carb) if there is the slightest trace of gas, you have found it
ok guys how about giving this fellow some alternative methods of testing and also some other solutions

 

[Anonymous]

HERES A REPAIR KIT ON EBAY I THINK IT MAY FIT YOURS http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840094929

 

[Anonymous]

Right on! Thanks Scotty! It makes sense now that I think about it a bit more. I only have this problem if the bike has been sitting for more than a few hours. Time enogh for a minor seepage to cause this trouble. Now I have something to do on my day off.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

78-79 GS 850/1000 normally have the older slide type carbs. As to the fuel valve if you have access to a vacuun pump you can check if the diafram is leaking. Before you rebuild the fuel valve clean it and examine it very close for any wear/corosion. There are also different repair kits depending on the year. The vacuum line for the fuel valve connects to the #3 carb. (#2 carb for the later 80 up BS style carb)

 

[Jay B]

Advise

Advise

FUNNY YOU SHOULD ASK
USUALLY IF YOUR BIKE HAS A VACUME OPERATED PETCOCK, THE PETCOCK OPENS JUST AS THE MOTOR STARTS RUNNING. THE PETCOCK HAS 2 LINES GOING TO IT--ONE IS FROM THE GAS TANK AND THE OTHER USUALLY RUNS TO THE ENGINE SIDE OF THE NUMBER 2 CARBEURATOR--WHEN THE DIAPHRAM STARTS TO GO BAD THE FUEL SEEPS PAST AND LOADS UP #2 CYLINDER WHICH CAUSES THE MOTOR TO RUN POORLY AT IDLE AND UNTILL YOU REV IT UP ENOUGH TO CLEAR THE PLUG OR USE ALL THE UN WANTED FUEL-THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MANY OF US AND WE CHOSE DIFERENT SOLUTIONS-IF THIS IS THE CASE, YOU CAN BUY A NEW PETCOCK$$$$$$$ OR REBUILD IT FOR ABOUT $25 I THINK-OR GO FOR A PINGEL MANUAL PETCOCK FOR ABOUT 90 DOLLARS IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY- THE PINGELS COME WITH A RESERVE POSITION IF YOU ASK FOR IT--A COUPLE OF US HAVE PURCHASED THEM FROM www.murdochracing.com in florida-- i deal with this company for most of my speed equipment and general replacement parts HOW CAN YOU TELL IF THE PETCOCK IS BAD???
First find the vacume line from the petcock to the carb. Second--pull the line off at either end ((i prefer to use the end on the carb) if there is the slightest trace of gas, you have found it
ok guys how about giving this fellow some alternative methods of testing and also some other solutions

Scotty that was right on advise. My question to you is Why are you buying speed parts for you bike when you can't get it out of you very wet driveway.........Sorry I had to do that