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1979 GS 1000 L carb remove/install trouble

  • Thread starter Thread starter exdirtbiker
  • Start date Start date
E

exdirtbiker

Guest
Hey guys...
I know most people want to say "buy the book". I did. It's in the mail.
Until it gets here, could someone tell me the best way to get the *&#*!carbs on - and off - my gs1000l ?
It was a bear getting them out, seems like the airbox gets in the way, but can't remove airbox until carbs are out? !!!
ARGH !!!!!!!
HELP !!!!

And does anyone have a petcock with 50mm bolt spacing for sale before I visit my local dealer and pay more than... I paid for the whole bike?

Thanks !
Pete
 
For my 79 750 I take off the airbox first, then the carbs. It's a tight fit, but I have done it so many times I could do it in my sleep and maybe even backwards :).

Rick
 
GS750 airboxes and GS1000 airboxes are completely different. Yes, you have to take the carbs out with the airbox in place. Remove the airfilter housing (the piece over the battery). Remove the bolts on top of the airbox so it can move. Remove the bracket on top of the carbs. Remove the cables. Loosen all clamps. Pull the carbs back out of the front boots, then up. Slide them out the left (?) side (one way works better, can't remember which). Soft, supple boots will save your sanity, especially when reinstalling!
 
carb removal on the 1000L

carb removal on the 1000L

I have a 79 1000 L also. I feel for you, some made it sound so easy that I felt so lame years ago. then one guy who had a gs1000l said heat up the boots and the air box with a blow dryer on Hot.
I did it and it was night and day and I did not swear anymore. Heat up the rubber and the box, Intake side rubber also.

PS that oring kit is a life saver I needed all of them they were shot.

Kirk
 
You could always buy pods for the price you paid for the bike. Oh yeah, then a jet kit.
Sorry about he petcock. With 0 posts and no response I wasn't sure if you were just passing by and another member sent me a Paypal payment. :o
My 1100 was such a pain that I really did go with pods. That started my quest for power.
For easier install and uninstall get new boots for the airbox.
 
Thanks !

Thanks !

Thanks to all of you for your help !

"PS that oring kit is a life saver......"

what o-ring kit?


When I bought the bike, I took the carb rack out, took off the bowls, only to realize they were "super-clean". ( guy before me probably did the same thing )
shot through the jets with can of Gumout. Blew out with compressed air.
"Hey, why are there no idle screw springs in 3 of the 4 carbs ???"
( Beers and repairs don't mix well !!! )
It gets worse...
Parts Fische doesn't have any idle screws. ( powersportspro... love that website !! )
Dealer can't find idle screws in their fische, either.
They're just not in the drawing. "can't help you".

maybe I have diff. carbs ??? this is getting annoying.

I put a tiny dab of RTV on the idle screw threads to keep them from vibrating out. or in.
Any better ideas? I don't want to buy 4 carb kits just to get 4 tiny springs !

Anywho, the bike idles OK, won't go over 3500 rpm without coughing, will NOT go over 4000 rpm.
-> same as before I tried to "clean" the carbs. <-

I think I saw a similar post, been too busy to go "hunting" for it. . :(
Maybe tomorrow.

Pete

PS... still looking for a 50 mm petcock.....
 
O ring kit.

O ring kit.

I believe it was or still is www.cycleorings.com He is here listed on the site. I have the VM slide carbs, they are great you should have them to.
Remember the orings at the head to boot connections those leak also. They are special, and I believe you need to get them from the dealer or some of the other recommended parts sites here.
Also syncronizing the carbs/ timing is the most important thing for these old bikes they will die if they are not tuned properly.
 
I have a bunch of those springs. Are you sure they aren't stuck in there. shine a flashlight in there and make sure. I get them out with a skinny wood screw. Takes out the little o-ring also.
 
Hey Chief

Hey Chief

I have heard all sorts of stuff with reguards to the pods and jetting some say leave it stock, more reliable that way, others say its easier to rejet and put pods on.
I am for the easy way out, but if it means I have to retune every month I have a bathroom my wife is wanting me to finish.
I used to have a old GT 380 in High school I saw alot of mods expansion chambers pods jetting oversized bore, I left mine stock, it was not the girl getter by any means. I did see the guys who worked at the dealership messing with them all the time, running lean or to rich.
Pods are nice, I have the old kerker pipe on there so maybe I need to let it breath better on the intake side.

Thanks , Kirk
 
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