1979 gs1000 help!

[94ta]

I just picked up a 1979 Suzuki GS1000, We put New Ignition coils on it and got it running. It idles well, it will idle all day long. The issue is that when i give it throttle it dies. I took the carbs apart and checked the main jets (i beleive). 8mm socket got them out. Im told they are the only 8mm jets in the carb. Anyways i cleaned them and made sure they werent clogged. Reassembled the carbs and got them back on the bike.

I found two sets of adjusting screws, not sure which is which, one is on top near the air filters, one is on the bottom where the fuel bowl is. I adjusted them to the point where i can rev it in nuetral, it doesnt rev quickly though. and in gear it wont move the bike, it will just stall.

I cant find any information on how to adjust these, ive never done it befor.

The issue befor i checked them was that it would idle and run and it would ride, but it felt like it had no power and it wouldnt rev quickly and would felt like it was sputtering.

If theres anything i can read, or anyone who knows the stock settings it would be great. Kinda just dont know what to do now.

 

[sharpy]

Hi, seems like you only did half a job. Bass Cliff be along soon for his welcome/info pages and i have sent a pm to send you some more stuff. Have you done the valve clearance and plugs like you should do on all new toys ? And try this link for some good info/reading...........

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=172410

 

[7981GS]

Welcome to the forum!
As stated, Basscliff will be along to answer all of your questions in great detail.
Yeah Cliff!

BTW, we NEED pictures of your bike. LOL.

Daniel

 

[Big T]

I just picked up a 1979 Suzuki GS1000, We put New Ignition coils on it and got it running. It idles well, it will idle all day long. The issue is that when i give it throttle it dies. I took the carbs apart and checked the main jets (i beleive). 8mm socket got them out. Im told they are the only 8mm jets in the carb. Anyways i cleaned them and made sure they werent clogged. Reassembled the carbs and got them back on the bike.

I found two sets of adjusting screws, not sure which is which, one is on top near the air filters, one is on the bottom where the fuel bowl is. I adjusted them to the point where i can rev it in nuetral, it doesnt rev quickly though. and in gear it wont move the bike, it will just stall.

I cant find any information on how to adjust these, ive never done it befor.

The issue befor i checked them was that it would idle and run and it would ride, but it felt like it had no power and it wouldnt rev quickly and would felt like it was sputtering.

If theres anything i can read, or anyone who knows the stock settings it would be great. Kinda just dont know what to do now.

Stop guessing and do some reading

Use the Search function and you will find all of your answers here and/or on BassCliff's site


Take the carbs off, then completely apart and clean them for starters

 

[94ta]

Im used to fuel injection and cars, not carbs on motorcycles.

Google 1979 gs1000 carb tuning and nothing comes up lol. I cant find any information. Thanks for heading me in the right direction though.

 

[Nessism]

Im used to fuel injection and cars, not carbs on motorcycles.

Google 1979 gs1000 carb tuning and nothing comes up lol. I cant find any information. Thanks for heading me in the right direction though.

Everything you need to know is here on the site. The Advanced Search function works great, particularly if you use Titles Only before you search.

This link is to the VM carb rebuild tutorial... http://www.thegsresources.com/files/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

cycleorings.com sells a kit for your carbs - get both a carb O-ring kit and a kit for your intake boots.

This will get you started.

 

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. 94ta,

Let me dump a TON of information on you (click the links below) and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these issues must be addressed in order to have a safe and reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[94ta]

Thanks for the info everyone.

Today i took the carbs apart further, as ive learned more about how a carburetor works and all the passages and what not.

I came to find that 3 out of 4 of my fuel screws are broken (admustments can be made from under the carb near the fuel bowl so i think thats their term). The very tips of them are missing, a few of them did not have springs as well. Most of the O-rings were crushed/brittle as well. I cleaned out every passage that i could find, removed all the jets and floats/needles. I havent dug into the tops of the carbs yet.

I guess ill be ordering the O-ring set as my suzuki dealer wants something like 6-8$ an O-ring (HAHA).

Im not entirely sure where to find the springs and the new fuel adjustment needles/screw. Those carb rebuild kits arnt cheap, i know that much.

Amazingly ive also been told a few things as far as factory adjustment goes. ive heard 3/4 and 5/8ths to 1.5(fuel) to 2(air) turns out for the adjustment screws.

With nothing done to the carbs but cleaning them i put them back on the bike in hopes that it would run, nothing haha. wont even act like it will run. So after 20 minutes of messing with it i decieded its not worth the effort untill i get the new orings. I got the new points and condensers put on though so its atleast good that they are updated and working.

So...untill next time...

Here she is by the way, not the best picture but hey...

This is my other project, 1994 Trans am. In the middle of a cam swap +bolt ons. Last year she went 13.6 with nitto 555r's, 3500 stall converter, exhaust cutout, and LS1 Lid swap. Hoping for 12.0-12.5 on motor this year.

 

[Big T]

From what you posted, it doesn't sound like you stripped and dipped the carbs per the tutorial

That's pretty important

The small parts are hard to find, but you can check Ace hardware for the springs. Some members have reground the tips of the needles

In general, avoid the rebuild kits unless you just have to have a part

When you reassemble the carbs, start with 3/4-7/8 on fuel and 1 1/2 -2 on air

Also, check your petcock function and hose routing

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

We have all been through it. Take a short cut and you do the job twice. Do it correct the first time and your done.
The GS will NOT run without the air cleaner !!!! The broken tip is probably still in the carb along with the springs maybe
Looks like someone put a later model tank on it

 

[94ta]

I did this 3/4 to 7/8 on fuel and 1.5-2 turns on air. Im thinking this might be said backwards. Bike runs better with more fuel then air to a point. Once that point is reached, the carbs start to over flow. I dont understand why they wouldnt overflow until that point. No roll-on power, when it catches it catches hard. but its not smooth power delivery at all.

Not sure what settings to try next since it dumps fuel the farther out i go with the screws to try and get more power and no dead spots. As far as ive read you can run pod filters and stock jets. Bike idles fine, it revs decently when the fuel screw is out farther then the air screws.

I really wish mikuni didnt put "PRESET" in the carb settings for the manual. Cant find this information anywhere for a factory setting.

The gs850g that we have is smooth as hell. feels like a fuel injected bike. no dead spots and power is on from every rpm.

Bike always keeps me guessing. If it was fuel injected I would be better off, carbs are still a foreign thing to me.

From what you posted, it doesn't sound like you stripped and dipped the carbs per the tutorial

That's pretty important

The small parts are hard to find, but you can check Ace hardware for the springs. Some members have reground the tips of the needles

In general, avoid the rebuild kits unless you just have to have a part

When you reassemble the carbs, start with 3/4-7/8 on fuel and 1 1/2 -2 on air

Also, check your petcock function and hose routing

 

[Nessism]

I did this 3/4 to 7/8 on fuel and 1.5-2 turns on air. Im thinking this might be said backwards. Bike runs better with more fuel then air to a point. Once that point is reached, the carbs start to over flow. I dont understand why they wouldnt overflow until that point. No roll-on power, when it catches it catches hard. but its not smooth power delivery at all.

Not sure what settings to try next since it dumps fuel the farther out i go with the screws to try and get more power and no dead spots. As far as ive read you can run pod filters and stock jets. Bike idles fine, it revs decently when the fuel screw is out farther then the air screws.

I really wish mikuni didnt put "PRESET" in the carb settings for the manual. Cant find this information anywhere for a factory setting.

The gs850g that we have is smooth as hell. feels like a fuel injected bike. no dead spots and power is on from every rpm.

Bike always keeps me guessing. If it was fuel injected I would be better off, carbs are still a foreign thing to me.

Please check this link for info that can help you...

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=171846

 

[94ta]

"10) Buying a 30 year old motorcycle because it was cheap without any mechanical knowledge and no interest in learning. Paying a shop to work on your 30 year old motorcycle is not advised; many times they will overcharge you and do crappy work."

Guess that about says it....Shes up forsale anyways. Just wish she would run a little better!

 

[Nessism]

"10) Buying a 30 year old motorcycle because it was cheap without any mechanical knowledge and no interest in learning. Paying a shop to work on your 30 year old motorcycle is not advised; many times they will overcharge you and do crappy work."

Guess that about says it....Shes up forsale anyways. Just wish she would run a little better!

You missed the part about installing pods with stock jetting...

 

[94ta]

You missed the part about installing pods with stock jetting...

Yea i emailed Some sudco company, they told me from their experience that when you add pod filters that the mains should be 2 sizes larger, needles should be 2 clips lower (needles should be higher), and pilots should be larger too.


I read on here that some people run pods with stock jetting and dont have issues, Id bet they do they just dont know it.

I will try to move the needles 2 clips higher and see if that helps. I know the 3/64 drill bit is a 120jet, Wonder if thats to much jet or not. Searching it says people have used 120's with pods so i hope its ok.

Can anyone tell me if the settings i got were indeed backwards? Should it be air 1.5-2 turns out and fuel .75-7/8ths turn out? Or opposite?

 

[Nessism]

Should it be air 1.5-2 turns out and fuel .75-7/8ths turn out?

You got it right.

 

[94ta]

You got it right.

Alright, guess that shows how far off it is, befor the fuel screw had to be 2 turns for it to try to run right. might be why its dumping fuel, its just not burning fast enough for the amount of air? Weird that sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesnt depend on air/fuel screw adjustments.

I will raise the needles this weekend and do the #120 jets. I read it wrong and its actually 4 sizes larger on the mains so a 120 should do fine. Not sure what to do about the pilot jets they should be 2 sizes larger. wondering what size they need to be and how i get them there. Maybe my other set of carbs has larger pilots.


I just noticed my pilot jet plugs are missing and of course I have 3 of them instead of 4. My other set of carbs seems to have a completly different pilot jet that uses no plug.

How important is this plug?