1979 GS850G front spindle assembly order?

[ldolamore]

I replaced the well worn front bearings on my '79 GS850. My first time for this but easy to remove and reinstall. In comparing the manner and orientation that the spacers and parts are to be assembled to how they actually existed (prior to my repair job), there is discrepancy. So I re-assembled per the service manual diagram (best I could tell, it's not the best diagram). When reinstalling the wheel I first tightened the spindle nut, then the four nuts for the spindle clamps. All were tightened per specified torque.

When I turn the front wheel there is a fair amount of drag (not the brakes) so it does not free spin. If I loosen the spindle clamp nuts the wheel spins freely. I don't know if I have all of the axle parts in the correct order, or if there is some other reason for the wheel binding. If someone could supply photos of both sides of the front spindle it might help me see clearly that I have assembled properly. The 'funny' thing is that I usually take photos of everything as I disassemble in case I need a reference, but forgot to do it for this job.

 

[Gorminrider]

this is a little blurry, but you might do better going to link below .Go For the Big Version.




Suzuki GS850G 1979 (N) USA (E03) FRONT WHEEL - buy original FRONT WHEEL spares online

 

[ldolamore]

Thanks. Re: the spacers parts 9 & 13, I see that the collar on part 13 faces inward, but I can't tell the orientation for part 9.
The diagram in the link you provided labels the same spacers both as part 8. The left side spacer shows the same "collar inward" as the other diagram, and appears to show the right side as collar outward.
I've actually installed the RH spacer with both orientations, but still the wheel starts to bind when I tighten the spindle clamp nuts. So I think I have the parts in the right places but cannot figure out the problem. Frankly, I can't remember how easily the front wheel would spin so maybe I'm just imagining a problem, but I think it spun fairly easily and would keep spinning at least a couple turns (obviously with wheel elevated off ground).

 

[Grimly]

Tighten the spindle clamps just lightly, then tighten the spindle nut just lightly. Then tighten the clamps a bit more, then the spindle a bit more.
Then tighten the clamps finally, then the spindle nut finally.
The idea is to ensure the spindle sits properly in place and the forks are spaced correctly and aligned.
This is assuming you've got the speedo drive properly in place and the spacers the correct way around. I take it you found a spacer in the wheel (part 3)? Some POs leave them out, but the bearings don't last long.
Spacers parts 9 and 13 go shoulder inwards. Also, make sure the lower clamps are the right way around - they're subtly shaped to match the profile of the bottom of the forks. They can go on the wrong sides, but don't quite line up right.

 

[Gorminrider]

Forgive me but Have to ask: You don't have the disc brake mounted when you test for freewheeling do you? In the unlikely event you do, undo the caliper from the bike, push the pads back in a little bit with a clamp and remount the caliper....I'm thinking this is often a good idea when "re-doing" a wheel.

 

[ldolamore]

Thanks, I removed the wheel, checked all the spindle assembly components, then reassembled. But this time I did it with both brake calipers removed and the wheel spins easily. Reinstalling the calipers created the big drag so something appears to have occurred with the brakes, although I was careful to not touch the brake lever when the calipers were off. I opened the bleeders one at a time and some brake fluid pushed into the hose I had placed over the bleeder(s). This happened without touching the brake lever. The wheel began to turn a bit more freely. So it appears the wheel bearing replacement went fine, and there is now no play in the wheel, but I suspect I need to at least clean the calipers.
Interestingly, I did not encounter this tight brake problem when I pulled the wheel to replace the tire last year, but that was then and this is now.

 

[Gorminrider]

Glad that was it!
It's pretty common in cars too...sticky after sitting awhile. The salt they use nowadays! apart from after wheel maintenance, I find the calipers need a Cleanup and reset after winter generally...(my storage is not that great) Generally a big C-Clamp can push the fronts in-not too far-just a wee bit or I get the feeling I might be challenging the seal by pushing rust or dirt through it... the rear caliper, if you have one, is trickier because it's hard to get at the pads... but woood wedges can do it and as you say, cracking the bleeder makes it even easier...

But Grimly's right. My Honda has quite a similar description remounting the wheel that Suzuki manuals gloss over

 

[ldolamore]

I tested the wheel for free spin with the calipers off, and that was fine. I reinstalled the left caliper and still free spin is good. Installing the right side caliper added noticeable drag so it would free spin 3/4 turn at best. I checked and cleaned the caliper but all seems correct, but the caliper was a hair snug to install. I checked and rechecked the spindle assembly but it's correct per the manual, and the fasteners were tightened to correct torque. I felt that if the right fork needed to be pushed out just a hair, so I used a very thin stainless steel washer against the spacer (between wheel and fork) and reassembled everything. I don't know what happened, or maybe the brake has had excessive drag for a while, but now all is good.