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1980 GS 450 L...carbs cleaned? now it sticks at 3k?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MikeQ
  • Start date Start date
M

MikeQ

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I cleaned the carbs out on my 450 the other day. I DID NOT remove the plug to the mixture screw because of my being overly nervous and cautious.

Now its all back together with new airbox rubbers and viton orings. It seems to be sticking at 3k hot or cold, worse when hot. I didnt soak the carbs for the full 24 hours, only about an hour to be honest because they didnt seem very dirty. A shop around here is telling me that the long bar with 4 screws is the synchronization bar and thats why its doing all this, that the carbs should never be split??? :confused:

They are also saying berrymans is bull**** and that it doesnt work bla bla..

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
 
What shop is this so we can stay away from them!!:eek:

Resoak the carbs for 24 hours after breaking them apart and following the guide Nessism put together on Basscliff's site. I believe you are referring to the choke bar that controls the opening and closing of each of the choke levers. The synchronization is done by other screws in between each carb but are not interconnected in the sense of that upper bar. Finally, carbs can be dirty in areas you won't see as there are many small passages inside of them. Not pulling the cover from that mixture screw didn't clean anything for that part of the carbs at all.
 
There is a small O-Ring around the mixture screw that may have been eaten at while the carbs were in the Berryman's. That may be causing a slight air leak which explains the stick at 3k.

However, when I rebuilt my carbs I had the same issue after reassembly, (I replaced all o-rings, gaskets, and ensured that all the passageways were clear). I found that after I vacuum synced the carbs the issue disappeared.

You can find some good information on vacuum syncing on Basscliff's site, I would recommend doing something like this for a manometer, effective and less than $10. For the vacuum ports on the cylinder head you'll have to drill some allen head bolts and JBWeld some tubes to attach the hoses, -or- I'm pretty sure I've seen that Motion Pro sells these bolts with the tubes already attached.
 
Your throttle cable may be pinched or over tightened.
Re disassemble and clean.

Last year I pulled up to a gas station to find a biker having problems with chain.
The dealer he had it serviced at(new rear wheel) had not put on the lock nuts on his tenisoner.
He could have had a bad accident from chain coming off and locking up the rear wheel. I went back home and grabbed what he needed off my Yamaha.
I know it takes time and patience to work on these old machines, but it leaves me with peace of mind knowing I will check everything over to make sure I do it right.

I had given one of my bikes to my best friend, he had the carbs rebuilt at a shop.
They had told him he needed a new carb body for one of them.
A few years later I have the bike back.
After finding this forum and doing a couple of sets of carbs I now had the expertise LOL to work on the (rebuilt carbs) myself.
I do not know what they did to need a new carb body, but they should have put the correct jets in it when they replaced, took me a long time to figure that one out.

Keep at it, do it right and save yourself some money here and down the road as you become more familiar with your bike.
 
Short cuts are long cuts when it comes to cleaning carbs. You are about to learn that the hard way.

No need to soak for 24 hours, if four hours clean them effectively. You can't clean them with the pilot screws in place though.

BTW, a high idle typically indicates a lean condition, often from leaking intake boot O-rings. Did you change them while the carbs were off? If not, you should do so.
 
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