1980 GS1000G Build thread

[Wmdaricthompson]

Hi all, just starting a build thread so I can keep track of what I've done.

Thus far: Removed and cleaned carbs obsessively, dipped and scrubbed with Q-tips, sprayed air through all passages.

Cleaned airbox, ordered all parts needed to seal air system, ordered parts for cam chain tensioner refresh, ordered new exhaust bolts, ordered new spark plugs.

Bought metal mesh, planning a custom seat.

Attempting to remove seized exhaust bolt in head. Too little bolt remains to vice grip it, drilled hole in center. Attempted to use extractor, it sheared. Bought tungsten carbide rotary cutter tools, got extractor removed. Ordered left handed drill bits to bore the bolt out.

 

[Who Dat?]

When you cleaned the carbs "obsessively", did you clean the insides, too?

I have seen carbs that were clean enough to eat off of on the outside, but ran like crap.
I have also seen carbs that looked like they had spent several years in the creek bed, but ran immaculately, because they were clean on the INSIDE, where it really counts.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

When you cleaned the carbs "obsessively", did you clean the insides, too?

I mean I cleaned them obsessively. Full teardown, split the rack, pulled all the jets, and float valve needles, dipped all parts in Berrymans (except the rubber parts), cleaned all surfaces with q-tips to remove all grime, blew through all passages with carb cleaner, then air, then reassembled with new O-Rings. Bench synced, and I'm just waiting for my new float bowl gaskets and idle plugs to come in along with the rest of my parts to seal up the air system.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

Going is slow between work and happenings in life. I got all my parts to refresh and reseal the air/fuel intake system, now I'm slowly getting through the intake manifold screws. I've used a generous application of liquid wrench, then on each one I've been dremeling a deep slot and using a 3/8" wide flat head bit adapted to my ratchet and slowly working them loose. I've gotten 3/8 screws in this fashion and hoping to break free a few more this morning when I get off work (darned night shift ruining my life).

 

[Guest]

Going is slow between work and happenings in life. I got all my parts to refresh and reseal the air/fuel intake system, now I'm slowly getting through the intake manifold screws. I've used a generous application of liquid wrench, then on each one I've been dremeling a deep slot and using a 3/8" wide flat head bit adapted to my ratchet and slowly working them loose. I've gotten 3/8 screws in this fashion and hoping to break free a few more this morning when I get off work (darned night shift ruining my life).

Sometimes you can get lucky with the intake screws if you get one out ,you can take a pair of pliers and turn the whole intake tube counter clockwise and the other screw will loosen. Make sure to grab it by the steel base plate .

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

I got one real easy this morning with that method. The fourth screw I got out was via Dremel slotting then when I rotated the boot around to get better access to the lower screw, it actually just completely broke loose. Practically took it out with my fingers. Then I got stymied on the sixth, so now I've backed away. I know if I start getting frustrated and pushing through working on this I'm just going to do more harm than good.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

Well, all my intake boots are off and seem to be in decent shape. That's the good news. The bad news is two of the screws sheared on the way out. One is flush, the other I may be able to vice grips out, but I kind of doubt it. They are on cylinders 2 and 3, so it looks like I'm pulling the engine out. I'm contemplating just taking the engine to a machine shop to get those sheared screws out as well as have them rectify my exhaust situation (stuck bolt, now messed up threads). Anyone have experience taking that kind of work in? It would be a first for me. I'll be calling around tomorrow to see what offerings are out there.


Also, anything I /should/ do so long as I have the engine out?

 

[Dogma]

While the engine is out? I can't think of anything to do but clean it. Maybe some painting if you think you need to.

However, if you really can't repair the broken screws without removing things (or hauling the whole bike to a shop to get it done), you might consider a top end rebuild instead of removing the whole engine. If you have any hints that you may need one, it can be done without wrestling the engine out of the frame. Just make sure you use OEM gaskets. We've tried other brands, and they are shockingly poor quality in some key places.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

I bought the bike non-running but ran when parked, and just over 12,000 miles, so I'm honestly not sure if it needs the rebuild or not. I'll be pulling the valve cover at some point here and I'll take a look for anything suspicious looking while I check and set clearances. I'm not opposed to a top end rebuild instead of pulling the engine. If that's the right choice I won't lose any sleep over it. I just know the Vulcan I'm working on has a slew of things to do while the engine is out and I figured I'd check to see if it was the same.

What all would be involved in a top end rebuild? My work inside engines is limited pretty much to valve clearance adjustment and cam chain tension. I imagine new gaskets would be needed any place one was exposed. Past that, I don't really have an image in my head of what tasks are involved.

 

[Guest]

hard decision really. With that low mileage I doubt the engine needs a top end rebuild, but you really won't know until it's started and you have fix those screws and bolts to get it running. Parts for a top end rebuild will probably be around $200, gaskets, rings, valve seals, etc..etc..ALL OEM of course. To do a top end job it's not hard, a good shop manual walks you thru it, about the only tool you need is a 70mm honer, unless you know a local shop that has one. If you can do a valve adjustment you can do a top end rebuild.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

I could get it running, badly, without, but that doesn't seem to be the right way to go about things! I would just have two intake boots and one exhaust pipe that were held on by one screw only. Man, vacuum leaks suck!

 

[Guest]

All you want to do is get it warmed up enough to do a compression test or you could do a leak down test. You just want to know if your rings are gone or if your valve seals are gone. More than likely though if it's been sitting that long your valve seals are gone.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

For another option, I've located a GS1100GK in my neck of the woods that already has the engine pulled and torn down for piston rings replacement. Given that I need to replace the seat, the instrument cluster and a few odds and ends, how many compatible parts am I likely to find on that bike? Can I swap that engine over?

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

The main reason I'm considering that route is that they only want $200 for the whole bike, and I'd try to talk them down from there even. I don't have a lot of space for another bike, but for the right price, I'd make some.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

The bike was registered and running as of 2014, so I think rather than try to do a full top end rebuild, I'm going to pull the engine and have a buddy of mine from work take a whack at getting those shards of bolt out. He has a fairly full shop (been doing classic car restoration for years) so he's said he's comfortable he's got what I need to get those bolt remnants out and get the holes re-tapped if needed. I'm grateful he's willing to help. I'm pretty handy, but first time I do things, it's nice to have someone who's been down that road before with me. Especially since I really don't want to mess up the head.

To that end, I've started working towards getting the engine out. Thus far I have the back brakes off the swingarm, shocks pulled (I'm just going to pull the swingarm off to do whatever maintenance I can while it's off). and I've gotten the four bolts on the shaft drive undone from under the rubber boot where it connects to the output from the engine. To keep the engine shaft from spinning while I had wrenches on it, I just put the rear wheel back in place on the splines, and slipped the handle of a hammer through it to rest against the swing arm. It was tedious to be sure, but I've gotten all four out without damaging anything which is overwhelmingly relieving.

While I've got all this going on, I'm starting to look at a brake system overhaul too. At the very least a thorough flushing. I pulled the cap on the rear reservoir and found a thick coffee colored liquid. Not really what I wanted to see, but much better than the "cottage cheese" I've found in the reservoirs of some of the other bikes I've dragged home (or in one scary case, rode home. 40 miles with a non-functioning front brake and a barely functional rear drum brake. Boyhowdy was I happy to get home on that one.)

At this point I need to pull the breather, disconnect all the electronic connections, disconnect the tach-drive cable, and I should be pretty clear to get the engine out. I need to line up some muscle for that to be sure. Think two burly men can wrestle it out safely? (potentially with the use of a floor jack too).

 

[Sam 78 GS750]

Two guys can get an engine out. Start using the floor jack with a block of wood under the engine though. Don't even bother trying to pick it up without one. It can be done, but much easier with the jack.

 

[Wmdaricthompson]

Got the swingarm removed today, that really wasn't too bad. Now I'm just waiting on manpower to pull the engine. Either my brother in law will help when he gets back in town or one of my buddies has said he can lend a hand this weekend. Then I'm packing it off to get those sheared bolts out. I may have hardships, but I can't be stopped!