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1980 GS1000G front axle removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter BluePlateSpecial
  • Start date Start date
B

BluePlateSpecial

Guest
I am switching the front wheel from my parts bike (GL) to the bike I am building (G).

I removed the wheel from the GL and the axle slid right out, but when I tried to remove the axle from the G wheel to put it on the parts bike I was not able to remove the axle.

I tried tapping it lightly with a hammer, and nothing. When I got back home my dad and I used a hammer and a 2x4 to give it a couple of good whacks, but still no luck.

Looking at the parts fiche I can't see anything that would prevent the axle from coming out. It should slide right out....correct? I tried to find more info in the manual and couldn't seem to find anything.

Am I missing something?
 
Sounds like some old grease is sticking things up in there.

Squirt some penetrating fluid on both sides, then hold a wood block up to the threaded end and bang the axle out with a hammer.

.
 
Sounds like some old grease is sticking things up in there.

Squirt some penetrating fluid on both sides, then hold a wood block up to the threaded end and bang the axle out with a hammer.

.

That would have to be some heavy duty muck.

Guess I will hit it with wd40 tomorrow, let it sit for a day and try it again. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't something in there that was going to get damaged before I hit it any more.
 
Yeah, I'm guessing the same thing. That was a nice bike that I'm still kicking myself in the butt for letting slip through my fingers. The PO had knowledge on bikes, but this may be something he didn't adress, in his restoration efforts. The grease my still be what it came from the factory with. It might have dried out and formed a crusty ridge inside keeping the axle from moving, heat may have fused the bearings to the axles also. It might take quite a bit of PB Blaster or simular penetrant to loosen it up. Even then it might still require some heavy blows, so make sure to put the castle nut back on the axle, but put it on backwards flush with the end to protect your threads. It might require blows from both sides. If there is a ridge built up in there it will more than likely be at both bearings. If you need help feel free to ask, I'm near by.
 
Guess I will hit it with wd40 tomorrow, let it sit for a day and try it again.
WD-40 might work, but the suggestion was to use some penetrating fluid.
icon_shrug.gif


Contrary to popular opinion, WD-40 is NOT penetrating fluid. :eek:

.
 
That was a nice bike that I'm still kicking myself in the butt for letting slip through my fingers.

Yea, it's a good starting point. It needs lots of little things but I'm hoping I don't have to go so far as to swap engines (although I do have that option). I'm figuring between the two bikes I should be able to cobble together one that's a decent runner ;)

I got all of the paint off the forks and sanded and polished them, front tire and pods are here, and the carbs should be done soon so hopefully I will be able to hear this thing roar within a month or so.

heat may have fused the bearings to the axles also.

That was my first thought.

If you need help feel free to ask, I'm near by.

Thanks, I just might have to take you up on that one of these days.
 
WD-40 might work, but the suggestion was to use some penetrating fluid.
icon_shrug.gif


Contrary to popular opinion, WD-40 is NOT penetrating fluid. :eek:

.

Well, I just sold my car and 0 out of 3 motorcycles on the road at the moment so wd40 will have to do. If not I'll get something a little stronger next week.
 
You can try tranny fluid. It's been used to free up engine cylinders for decades. If you have some, it should work better than WD-40.
 
Got the Honda back on the road and picked up some PB Blaster. Soaked it down earlier this afternoon. I will give it another try tomorrow.
 
PB Blaster must have worked.....a couple of whacks and it came right out.
 
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