Look in the Tips and Tricks section for a post called "Broken Float Post" by CdNoel
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1980 GS1000S Carb Rebuild ( by a 1st Timer)
- Thread starter Vmass
- Start date
8
850GT_Rider
Guest
Keep in mind the socket is not supporting the upper post. It's supporting the lower post, which is where the float pin is actually secured. Also, make sure the tool you use to drive out the pin is smaller than the pin itself. It's pretty easy to miss and strike the upper post.
D
dueller
Guest
Just did my carbs
Just did my carbs
on my 700EF. I didn't support my post (and I DON'T recommend it) but I used a pin punch and just the handle of a screwdriver to remove my posts. Didn't want to use a hammer cuz didn't want to use too much force. I put them back in by just putting the pin in as far as I could by hand and then used my Latherman to squeeze the pin back in. One side of the pliers on the head of the pin and the other on the opposite side of the post it was closest to. Hope that helps some when you reassemble. Also, make sure you hook up your throttle cable BEFORE you mount the carbs to the intake boots
I forgot to.
I notice in the bank of pictures on your first post, the coating on one of the cables (clutch) was worn off so you could see the inner metal coiling. Probably should think about replacing that cable because dust and water could get in there and sieze up your cable and if that IS your clutch cable you probably don't want to be riding along at 70 and not be able to clutch your bike! Think OH S#!T how do i STOP????
Just did my carbs
on my 700EF. I didn't support my post (and I DON'T recommend it) but I used a pin punch and just the handle of a screwdriver to remove my posts. Didn't want to use a hammer cuz didn't want to use too much force. I put them back in by just putting the pin in as far as I could by hand and then used my Latherman to squeeze the pin back in. One side of the pliers on the head of the pin and the other on the opposite side of the post it was closest to. Hope that helps some when you reassemble. Also, make sure you hook up your throttle cable BEFORE you mount the carbs to the intake boots
I forgot to. I notice in the bank of pictures on your first post, the coating on one of the cables (clutch) was worn off so you could see the inner metal coiling. Probably should think about replacing that cable because dust and water could get in there and sieze up your cable and if that IS your clutch cable you probably don't want to be riding along at 70 and not be able to clutch your bike! Think OH S#!T how do i STOP????
on my 700EF. I didn't support my post (and I DON'T recommend it) but I used a pin punch and just the handle of a screwdriver to remove my posts. Didn't want to use a hammer cuz didn't want to use too much force. I put them back in by just putting the pin in as far as I could by hand and then used my Latherman to squeeze the pin back in. One side of the pliers on the head of the pin and the other on the opposite side of the post it was closest to. Hope that helps some when you reassemble. Also, make sure you hook up your throttle cable BEFORE you mount the carbs to the intake boots
I notice in the bank of pictures on your first post, the coating on one of the cables (clutch) was worn off so you could see the inner metal coiling. Probably should think about replacing that cable because dust and water could get in there and sieze up your cable and if that IS your clutch cable you probably don't want to be riding along at 70 and not be able to clutch your bike! Think OH S#!T how do i STOP????
I can't believe anyone would recommend against supporting the float post.
An update and some questions.
I received a replacement carb for the one I broke the post on (carb#1).
The replacement carb has a different number than the other one. However, the body seems identical with a few minor differences. All ports, holes etc. seem to be the same.
I managed to get all 4 carbs apart, dipped, cleaned and put back together using the K & L kit and o-ring kit. All went well after the 1st broken post blunder.
All are together, loosely. Know I need to learn what screws/jets get turned in/out etc.. as well as the bowl height adjustment.
I am still a little unsure about where to get this information from, the S seems to be tough to find this information.
FYI: The cleaning document is priceless... I did carb #4 without looking at it!
Thanks for all the help to date!!
I received a replacement carb for the one I broke the post on (carb#1).
The replacement carb has a different number than the other one. However, the body seems identical with a few minor differences. All ports, holes etc. seem to be the same.
I managed to get all 4 carbs apart, dipped, cleaned and put back together using the K & L kit and o-ring kit. All went well after the 1st broken post blunder.
All are together, loosely. Know I need to learn what screws/jets get turned in/out etc.. as well as the bowl height adjustment.
I am still a little unsure about where to get this information from, the S seems to be tough to find this information.
FYI: The cleaning document is priceless... I did carb #4 without looking at it!
Thanks for all the help to date!!
I can't believe anyone would recommend against supporting the float post.
I can't believe anyone would be even slightly concerned about losing a clutch cable at 70 mph, or any other speed.
Dude, learn to ride. A clutch cable is nothing.
Have you thoroughly looked through Basscliff's site, downloaded the service manual, or looked through your Clymers for the settings? You'll find a lot of that there.